Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There's a heap of fake sard regs around so be careful. I'm using an SX reg and it's been fine.

Rising rate regs usually increase the fuel pressure double the boost so you could be up there, do you have a gauge in the dash?

I don't have a gauge in the cabin, just one on top of the reg, so it's hard to tell what happens under boost conditions.I may buy a sensor to add to my AFR display.

However, I thought that most rising rate regs increased pressure at 1:1 ratio to counteract the boost. That would be the easiest to manufacture as well, with the hose simply adding boost pressure to the diaphram. All the rising rate regs that have a higher ratio than 1:1 seem to be much more expensive & would probably advertise the fact that they have this feature.

Has anyone seen a gauge pod for an M35 at all? I'd really like a double din unit for my stereo/gps but don't want to lose the factory gauges.

How handy are you at making stuff? There's plenty of good ideas out there, but I've not seen anything decent that you can buy straight up, besides the standard A-pillar mounted gauge pods that look a little out of place in a M35, IMO.

Do you just want to relocate the single DIN factory gauges? If you don't have the Nav DVD ROM in the flip up section they will fit there nicely.

How handy are you at making stuff? There's plenty of good ideas out there, but I've not seen anything decent that you can buy straight up, besides the standard A-pillar mounted gauge pods that look a little out of place in a M35, IMO.

Do you just want to relocate the single DIN factory gauges? If you don't have the Nav DVD ROM in the flip up section they will fit there nicely.

Yeah that is exactly what I'm thinking of. Relocate them to where the factory screen is usually located in some sort of pod, then have a double din unit down under the climate control.

Half tempted to try and make something up but if there is interest for others to do this maybe I'm better off trying to organise a group buy of sorts..

Is the factory boost gauge accurate?

Only real reason I want that is to make sure that it's not boosting off it's face - I find the battery charge gauge handy.. front wheel torque isn't necessary although it is a bit of a game. :)

I don't really need anything, but I just don't want to get rid of the standard gauges unless I'm replacing it with something and if it gets replaced I want it to look as standard as possible.

I think it's fairly accurate, but it's only 1bar (14.5 PSI)... :whistling:

Depends on what you're planning on doing to the car, whether you'd need stuff like oil temp, oil pressure, fuel pressure, etc.

Does anyone know if all AR-X's come with the fixtures to buy and install the grate separating the backseats from the boot ie to stop my bloody dog from jumping over. From the pictures that have been sent to me it doesn't look like my AR-X has it standard.

If yes, does anyone want to sell me one.

For those of you who have imported through a broker, how close has been your quoted L&C price compared to the actual final price. My broker has been really excellent but it looks like he's $1500 off what he quoted me or rather what I quoted him as my budget. It's a bit concerning but to his credit he's looking into it for me rather than brushing me off.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Alright guys, I've got good odds the motor survives due to a majority of spare parts. Who's taking bets on clutch, who's on transmission, and who's go diff? Happy to also take bets on if it still overheats in traffic or not 😛     Car looks amazing by the way. I've never been a fan of R34 rears, so really, I don't think any body kit etc solves that for myself, but the front end looks amazing!
    • As an ex-skyline owner Going off how these things are now "modern classics", I would keep the twins and just "refresh" bits that are required for reliable power and have a car you can take out for a cruise whenever you get the itch As a idiot who cannot leave things alone Going deep into the "rabbit hole" is a easy thing to do, as previously mentioned, once you start it becomes a slippery slope, wirh lots of supporting mods, and possibly rebuilds, and unless you have a bottomless pit of funds, the car can spend most of its life sitting in the garage,  broken, waiting for parts, or building more funds For a classic like a R32 GTR Basically, a reliable OEM+ refresh, that isn't a broken garage queen, is alot better than a car that you build, then break, then fix, then break again And it isn't just the engine you need to worry about, these beasties are getting on in age, and all parts are getting, and have got, expensive, the days of picking up cheap replacement engines and other driveline parts are well and truly over The funds not spent on going a single with quality parts, and with all the other other bits required to make it happen, could be spent on refreshing alot of other parts A wise man once said "If you cannot afford 2 GTR's, you cannot afford 1", I also believe he said this about 20 years ago when you could pick up a clean R32 GTR up for around $20k My advice for a R32 GTR (the one and only true Godzilla in my mind) is to think holistically about the whole car, the body, the power train, the suspension, the brakes, and the driveline SAU is a wealth of knowledge with decades of Skyline experience,  from stock, to OEM+, to modified to varying degrees, to full on or weekend or dedicated racecars, as well as full on money pits that rarely leave their garage Treat the old girl nice and give her what she deserves, you are a lucky man to own such a classic car  
    • For that price you could buy the hypergear turbo (big fan as I run one) and the Haltech ECU..
    • +1 for the Elite 2500. Get some new knock sensors while you are at it (pretty cheap), look up the TAARKS Nissan knock sensor kit. You may also want to get new coils (R35gtr) while your at it (assuming your on stock ones), as they are a liability. Mine started right up and idled fine on the base map. Also go MAP over MAF, as said above, Haltech make this super simple right out the box. Another fanboy of DBW here, Outsider Garage from your neck of the woods make some nice conversion gear for the R33 (that’s where I got some of my gear from).
    • Nvm ignore this I read it wrong
×
×
  • Create New...