Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The strange thing is that it was working and has just stopped. I would have thought if it were out of gas that you would feel the A/C getting worse and worse, not just stop all of a sudden.

Thoughts?

Depends, if the refrigerant gets below a certain pressure; the compressor will not engage. This is to protect the compressor from damage.

Could even be a relay or fuse issue with the aircon clutch?

  • 2 weeks later...

going to fill'er up today and will post the results when it's empty. Nothing but city driving

Long overdue result:

post-16018-0-01087000-1362185043_thumb.jpg

This was from a mix of city driving, and highway, mostly 30+ degree hot days, with the aircon going;

Could have probably pushed on a bit further, but have never been keen on actually running out of fuel.

Kinda decent result considering the weather, and comparing to two very thirsty R33s I owned previously

  • 1 month later...

109 pages later, I have finally caught up!

Hey guys, I've recently sold my R34, and am looking at purchasing an M35 Axis Autech from Northshore Prestige in the next few days. From what I've read, most people HIGHLY recommend them, and even my own personal experience thus far has been great with them.

Is there anything I should be looking out for? The car in question is this one.

http://www.northshoreprestige.com.au/view.php/used_cars/2002_Nissan_Stagea_AXIS_AUTECH_Pearl_White_5_Speed_Automatic_Wagon/6084626/

Thanks in advance for y our help guys, will definitely be more frequent in here once I have purchased!

Just the basic things-

Budget for a turbo to blow. It will. You'll need to rebuild it.

Check for snow car - will be obvious- layer of surface rust on the underside. See if the wheel bearings are making any noise. Check the windows, check the stereo hasn't clapped out.

Once you buy it, get at least a dump and front pipe to ease the restriction on the turbo, and combine that with drilling out the banjo bolt for a bit more flow. That will prolong the life of the stock turbo. Check if it has stock computer, or you might luck out and get a nismo, or worse get a who knows what it is computer.

Ben isn't pushy - he lets his cars do the talking. They IMO are the nicest cars, but doesn't mean they haven't had the haircut before reaching him. Most in the country have.

Lastly, drive a Series 2 car as well, and see how they compare.

Just the basic things-

Budget for a turbo to blow. It will. You'll need to rebuild it.

Check for snow car - will be obvious- layer of surface rust on the underside. See if the wheel bearings are making any noise. Check the windows, check the stereo hasn't clapped out.

Once you buy it, get at least a dump and front pipe to ease the restriction on the turbo, and combine that with drilling out the banjo bolt for a bit more flow. That will prolong the life of the stock turbo. Check if it has stock computer, or you might luck out and get a nismo, or worse get a who knows what it is computer.

Ben isn't pushy - he lets his cars do the talking. They IMO are the nicest cars, but doesn't mean they haven't had the haircut before reaching him. Most in the country have.

Lastly, drive a Series 2 car as well, and see how they compare.

Thanks for the quick reply mate.

Yeah, I read to budget in a new turbo. I've also read that the Shift Kit that Jetwreck does on here is also a MUST mod, due to the wet paper bag gearbox.

I've got a highflow cat at home already, so I'm sure I can locate a DP and Exhaust and fit it up. When you say banjo bolt, I'm guessing you're referring to a turbo oil feed/drain of some sort?

I like the fact they throw up a pic of the underside of the car. The exhaust seems to have a bit of rust on it, but nothing major.

Cheers,

Shaz

Nice looking car.

Jetwreck also has a Fuji exhaust forsale right now. And talk to Scotty about his dump pipe and boost actuator mod. They will make you happy.

Shut up and take my money!

Will definitely be hitting them up once its all finalised.

Thanks for the info buddy!

Shaz

Yup, turbo banjo oil feed.

It's considered one of the issues why the turbos flog out. It's quite small, and can clog with bad servicing and or a bit of foreign material. A larger hole allows better oiling with no downsides.

Yup shift kit and a external cooler is a very good idea.

Yup, turbo banjo oil feed.

It's considered one of the issues why the turbos flog out. It's quite small, and can clog with bad servicing and or a bit of foreign material. A larger hole allows better oiling with no downsides.

Yup shift kit and a external cooler is a very good idea.

Ahh okay, that makes sense. Good little DIY job to do.

I've also read that the throttle control leaves a bit to be desired, and that there are a few kits out there to rectify this? Any in particular you blokes find better then the others?

Forget the electronic throttle "controllers"
most just find the brake wire cut mod is sufficient- There is a wire that tells the ecu that the brake pedal has been applied, and for the next 3-4 secs after its been applied it limits throttle percentage. Cut that, and you get better throttle response but a systematic CEL which can be wiped by applying power to the wire every so often.

Forget the electronic throttle "controllers"

most just find the brake wire cut mod is sufficient- There is a wire that tells the ecu that the brake pedal has been applied, and for the next 3-4 secs after its been applied it limits throttle percentage. Cut that, and you get better throttle response but a systematic CEL which can be wiped by applying power to the wire every so often.

Yeah right. So you're basically tricking the ECU into not registering an applied brake pedal, bypassing the factory system. Makes sense.

Is there a way to do it so it isn't constantly throwing the CEL? Other than a switch hooked to power one end, and the brake wire the other?

Cheers,

Shaz

You can set it up however. Only limit is you imagination.

I'm sure you can set it up to work when you select reverse, or just put a little push button hidden or something. I think the guys get a week out of it before it throws a CEL, so its not a big deal.

You can set it up however. Only limit is you imagination.

I'm sure you can set it up to work when you select reverse, or just put a little push button hidden or something. I think the guys get a week out of it before it throws a CEL, so its not a big deal.

Yeah, doesn't seem like it would be a massive issue. I'm guessing it doesn't go into "limp mode" or anything when it does that?

I'm not sure if this the correct place to post this, or if it has already been posted, I have has an email from JPNZ, see below, share it around!

Hello
We are happy to offer the transfer of Japanese to English software used to run the AV system in your vehicle to our customers in New Zealand and will be covering more models this year.
The software we offer can transfer your current operating software to English so you can operate everything on screen in English.
We can offer this for NZ $348.50.
We cannot offer NZ maps for the GPS system at this stage but we may be able to in the near future depending on numbers of interested people.
If you are interested in having your AV system changed to operate in English please confirm by email and also indicate which part of NZ you are situated.
Thank you, we look forward to optimising your AV system to operate in English.
Regards
Michael McCarthy (Director)
52 ~54 Portage Rd
New Lynn, Auckland, New Zealand
Phone: +64 9 8250773, Fax: +64 9 825 0774
Mobile: 021829531
Postal address:
P.O. Box 20-002 Glen Eden
Auckland, New Zealand

I'm not sure if this the correct place to post this, or if it has already been posted, I have has an email from JPNZ, see below, share it around!

Hello
We are happy to offer the transfer of Japanese to English software used to run the AV system in your vehicle to our customers in New Zealand and will be covering more models this year.
The software we offer can transfer your current operating software to English so you can operate everything on screen in English.
We can offer this for NZ $348.50.
We cannot offer NZ maps for the GPS system at this stage but we may be able to in the near future depending on numbers of interested people.
If you are interested in having your AV system changed to operate in English please confirm by email and also indicate which part of NZ you are situated.
Thank you, we look forward to optimising your AV system to operate in English.
Regards
Michael McCarthy (Director)
52 ~54 Portage Rd
New Lynn, Auckland, New Zealand
Phone: +64 9 8250773, Fax: +64 9 825 0774
Mobile: 021829531
Postal address:
P.O. Box 20-002 Glen Eden
Auckland, New Zealand

I got exactly the same email from Michael. Is it really worth it to converting the navi into English? I don't really use the screen much only for reversing and front camera.

I received the same email and as I have a S2 M35 I'd be interested in following up on this.

I emailed andy65b at his email link at xanavi.com.au as I believe he's been the face behind the Russion programmers, to see if this was the same conversion but as yet, I haven't heard anything back from him.

Does anyone else know if this is the same conversion, or another one?

Edited by Spong

I wouldn't be reading too much into the JPNZ guys - those are the guys that have been promising a translated manual forever and have so far failed to deliver. But they want money up front.

If you go to www.xanavi.com.au, you might be able to find someone who can help you with this. there's no one listed as being in NZ but I'm sure one of the guys can help you out with something.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pete knows these cars well, he does my car too, if he was concerned about the traction arm length for your use he would have said so. Do you have adjustable bushes in that arm, maybe he got enough adjustment there (or maybe the bump steer was not material for your use of the car)
    • Hmm. Yes. I should have been clearer. 1000s for Haltech, for extra headroom. 725s for Nistune. You might even be OK with 640s, but if the possible power ends up much more than 300 rwkW you will run out of headroom on the 640s. That would probably be OK and a signal to not push it to that sort of power with Nistune anyway. At that level you probably do want to be thinking about engine protection functions. Oh, and all of that presumes 98 only, not E85. Well....the 1000s would allow you to run E85 at ~300rwkW territory, again, maybe sort of running out of headroom. Hard to tell with E85 - depends on the tuner as to how rich they like to set it up.
    • Yes.  The only scenario I can imagine when the answer isn't yes, is if you drive like there is highway patrol behind you at all times.  If your car currently runs, enjoy it and keep saving. Better costs more, keep saving until you can budget the better ECU. It's worth it.  Nope. Plenty of us making >300kw on unopened motors. Mine is unopened and makes about 350kw if I turn everything up, its fine (lots of caveats here, how the car will be used/abused, how long you expect the engine to last between rebuilds, how has the engine been maintained prior to coming into your ownership, etc etc).   
    • Sorry just wanting to clarify, at this power goal, which should I be going? Also, More info regarding suspension, the rear upper camber arms were used to get the camber back to i believe around -0.5 ~ -1 degree (@ Road and Race in Rydalmere), I forgot the exact figure, but ALOT less camber than what it came originally which was like -2.5degrees. Are the traction arms still recommended? The bilsteins from SydneyKid, they've got 400lb/in fronts & 275/in in the rear, revalved to his specs. Intercooler, I'm just having a look at some on Rakuten.jp and some other japanese sites. Might get something from back there, GReddy, Blitz or HPI, all crossflow. Looking at roughly $450-$500 AUD + shipping... Theres not many choices except that chinese branded Justjap unless you go for blitz return flow. Yeah, only downside with Haltech is the price ahhaha, so expensive, and with all the sensors if I go that route... $$$$$ yeesh. Are headstuds/gaskets needed for <300akw?
    • Haltech fanboi reporting in. Buy the Haltech! 
×
×
  • Create New...