Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah I bet replacing the unit as a whole would be their first option, they have a few on the yard. I'll be sure to specify a new laser.

If they want me to go away they'd better do it right. :)

I think you're lucky the dealer will even cover the Bose stacker. Most dealers in NZ seem to opt out of covering the audio systems in imports. There aren't that many good car audio repair people around in Auckland these days, but if you or they need a good one, I can recommend one if required.

BTW, where did you get your Stag from? Ha ha I thought I recognised your avatar here at Trademe, in Lower Hutt:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-290205428.htm

Maybe it's your car's long lost sister?

I think you're lucky the dealer will even cover the Bose stacker. Most dealers in NZ seem to opt out of covering the audio systems in imports. There aren't that many good car audio repair people around in Auckland these days, but if you or they need a good one, I can recommend one if required.

BTW, where did you get your Stag from? Ha ha I thought I recognised your avatar here at Trademe, in Lower Hutt:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/C...n-290205428.htm

Maybe it's your car's long lost sister?

Ha ha it's true! It was the only clean photo I knew off when I signed up. Mine is identical though, inside & out.

Once I have a chance to clean it, between showers, I'll get one up.

I'm lucky with the dealer though, Buy Right Cars in Panmure. Firstly it's been less than two weeks and secondly (rather ignorantly) I specifically requested a Bose system and they raved about this one. They might try it on once they get the repair bill though.

At this stage they've said they will repair it, as they 'have a guy', and will provide me a loan car. Can't really ask for better than that!

not worth a lot if they do not fix it properly as I stated onthe phone today. those mechs are gettin on a minimum of 6 yrs old and the last one I did took 6 months ex japan (and ex china where they are made.) to get to me.

one other issue that will crop up: the radio will die totally and when it does it will take the A/C system with it..

not worth a lot if they do not fix it properly as I stated onthe phone today. those mechs are gettin on a minimum of 6 yrs old and the last one I did took 6 months ex japan (and ex china where they are made.) to get to me.

one other issue that will crop up: the radio will die totally and when it does it will take the A/C system with it..

Damn it's all good news :P . When (probably not 'if') it stuffs up again I guess we'll have to rip it out and give it the proper treatment! Maybe I should've bought the silver one with the standard deck... Oh well, at least the speakers, sub & amp can stay! :rofl:

a major reason why I bought my turbo was that it did not have the built in sounds and I could fit my awesomely good one that still performs after 6 years' heavy use (only one blown door speaker, easily repaired)

+1, could see it being a problem down the track, mind you, I like the idea of the sub in the spare wheel...

  • 2 weeks later...

I am tossing up between importing into OZ ,from a Japanese auction, a cheaper Stagea CS 34 and a more expensive Stagea M35.

I have not driven or physically seen one and am not able to in my location.

How much different are these 2 in specs and performance ? eg the last version of CS34 and the first year of the M35

Which model gives better value for money ?

Are both easy to get parts locally?

Does one have a better re-sale value over another?

Do either have xenon lights?

I was inclined to go with the CS34 as it is seems to be a GTS turbo in a wagon as it will be much cheaper .

At the moment I am very much uneducated when tying to compare both cars

They are two totally different cars.....the M35 goes better in stock form(RS260 is quicker though). Depends what you call good value for money.....if I'm spending 30K on a car the M35 is excellent!....if I'm spending 20K on a car the C34 is excellent. The C34 is a lot easier to source parts for. The RS260 has the best resale of them all. There not suppose to have Xenon lights.

Got my car back now and all is good. They replaced the laser & the laser drive gear with new so hopefully I'll get a good run now.

Just had a wheel alignment & a brake skim done plus some Bendix DB1232's added, feels alot better now, no more shudder.

Service at Nissan to follow shortly but I'll be doing the oil change. I've got Motul 300v & a Nismo Veruspeed oil filter # 15208-RN010. K&N filter will be going in and plenum will be cleaned out. Then it'll be out with the TV tuner to be modded by Chris. :P

  • 3 weeks later...

Hello. I've just purchased an M35 and looking at pick up on Tuesday. I was very happy with the test drive and with the service i got from the dealer i went to. The car felt very solid and drove very well.

The only thing that wasn't perfect was when i pressed the accelerator down to overtake, there was a slight lag in the transmission gearing down. But once it did, it took off nicely (i'm guessing this is normal for all M35's).

I've noticed that in the sat nav compartment that the actual drive says "DVD ROM". Is there a converter that can enable this to play DVD's on the in-dash screen?

Also, with the Japanese writing on the buttons for browsing the screen, is there someone on here that does stickers that can replace these with english translated ones?

Thanks fellas,

Dimi.

73-169-2.jpg

9200144A20100407W00112.jpg

0300624A20100122W00214.jpg

Edited by dimi108

The English stickers to put over the buttons are available off ebay but IMO they do not look that good nor do I think you need them.

The DVD rom is actually a little computer and will never play DVD movies.

You will need to input any other device like, local TV tuner, Ipod or DVD player through the OEM TV tuner AUX function. Just remember that this is a NTSC screen not PAL.

Cheers

Andy

Thanks Andy.

You've been helping me via e-mail about my english conversion questions.

I think the dealer is actually getting you to do the conversion on my Stagea this week because I mentioned your name and they knew who you were.

Edited by dimi108
Thanks Andy.

You've been helping me via e-mail about my english conversion questions.

I think the dealer is actually getting you to do the conversion on my Stagea this week because I mentioned your name and they knew who you were.

Nup....his getting me to do it!....looks like a nice car......the guy's you bought it from are pretty good dealers.

Edited by Jetwreck

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So where is this message group so we can organise another meet? Keen to come along and catchup. Might eventually be in a skyline again next year, but the Mustang will have to do for now. Also need to get the WRX back on the road. Stupid f**king money pit that thing is.
    • Stock equivalent turbo replacement is a bit of a nightmare. The old Hitachi ceramic things were pretty good for their time, but they have primitive, vintage aerodynamics. The only thing they have going for them is a light turbine**, and there are plenty of other light turbine options these days, in both materials and CNC manufacturing methods. So, the old stocker makes absolutely no power at all compared to its physical size and its (not very low) boost threshold and response. ** and the ONLY thing that was good about the ceramic turbine was that it was light. In all other respects it is a nightmare. To get a turbo that is anywhere near equivalent in terms of power capacity (ie, to avoid it being "bigger" and needing tuning/fuelling/etc) you have to physically downsize. And that is not a "stockish" replacement. Doesn't just fit where the old one did. At least a frame size down, probably need a new dump, probably need new inlet and outlet piping made on the compressor side, new hose connections as D said above. I say, if you have to suffer that much work, you might as well do the same work to fit an even bigger (than stock) turbo, have more power (and hence have to do injectors, ECU, etc), and love life, instead of suffering with stock power levels. Or, you get a light highflow from someone like Hypergear. A highflow that has not been pushed too far from stock. There are still modification consequences here though. HG's cores are smaller than the massive Hitachi core, so it is shorter, moves the compressor housing backwards and requires mods to the air side piping. Plus new hoses. Looks stock, mostly fits where the stock one did (with the previous caveats mentioned), makes a bit more power but can be run at stock boost levels and not cause too many ECU problems. But, seriously. It's 2024. Like - 25 years since the R33 came out. It's time to put an ECU in it. I Nistuned my car (on RB20 ECU then later again on the Neo ECU) and it was the single best thing possible for minimal money. Dial out the R&R bullshit, fix up the fuelling and timing to make it more efficient for normal driving (cut fuel consumption by >10%). Nistune is not an option for you unless you change the ECU, so you might as well just do a standalone. it will be worth it. And then you can tune it up to the limits of the injectors and AFM, which is pushing 200rwkW and enjoy some actual squirt, instead of the lazy barge-like motion you get from a stock engine, turbo and management.
    • He can't post pics until he's at 10 post count.
    • Welcome James.....will be interesting to see how much fun there is in the project. .....where's the pics?
×
×
  • Create New...