Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It get's blocked up.

I've been lead to believe that if you clean it out, use good oil and service it regularly you should be fine.

To be safe, if you're running a standard turbo you can drill it out to 2mm, and if you're running a highflow you drill it to 3mm.

Scotty and Aaron are the experts, but that's what I've been lead to believe.

Any peeps on here interested in a wood trim interior for an M35? I only ask as I'm going to paint it all black unless someone wants to trade...

:)

You can vinyl wrap the timber part of your dash and it looks pretty good.

I would just drill it out to 1.5 mm if you plan to keep the stock turbo, 2.5 mm if hou go for a bushed core.

The banjo threads into the block just in front of the passenger front drive shaft.

It get's blocked up.

I've been lead to believe that if you clean it out, use good oil and service it regularly you should be fine.

To be safe, if you're running a standard turbo you can drill it out to 2mm, and if you're running a highflow you drill it to 3mm.

Scotty and Aaron are the experts, but that's what I've been lead to believe.

Great info, thanks guys. Might drill it out when I go to see my old man in a few weeks since he has a drill press. I don't even have a vice at the moment!

I don't suppose some one on here knows if the centre console on an M35 is interchangeable with the V unit? Chasing both the radio surround and lower gear stick surround. Figured if they are interchangeable it would make finding these parts a million times easier. :)

I don't suppose some one on here knows if the centre console on an M35 is interchangeable with the V unit? Chasing both the radio surround and lower gear stick surround. Figured if they are interchangeable it would make finding these parts a million times easier. :)

yes, they are both inter changable.

I saw one for sale on the V series forum

Well I've set mine to 360mm front and rear, this gives about 15mm gap between tyre and guard with my 245/45-18 tyres. I might drop it another 5mm but probably not worth the trouble. I like to leave 10mm gap so it doesn't get too many looks. With the aero front bar it just clears those cement stops in car parks. Its funny, when I look on the RAWS site and look up my car it shows the stock height (i think its listed wrong) and minimum height. It states unladen F and R 365mm and Minimum F and R 346mm. I had it at 345mm at one stage and its bloody low so I think the figures are wrong.

Edited by slippylotion

Rear under spoiler for the left and right muffler system

I haven't seen any mention of this here before therefore I am just shariing in case someone want to take this path...

http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/zeesis/item/m35-supoir/

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm firmly on the "zero compliance is good compliance" for FUCAs. I'd be looking to solid metal joints even if the primary reason for having them is because they facilitate the twist in the arm. I have never been more happy with the way the front suspension behaves than I have since I got rid of the FUCA bushes. Even the thin little (short lived) poly bushes in the Whiteline adjustables have too much compliance for my liking. It probably won't be long before I have sphericals nearly everywhere, probably including both top and bottom arms in the rear, and I'll start complaining about the increased costs for dental work. But I will be enjoying the driving more, I'm sure.
    • Plus, you'll get great experience in bedding in pads!
    • I have offset Nismo brackets so the fact the gktechs can pivot is less important to me. I have 170mm JIC arms with bushings - but they provide no adjustment and I'm not sure whiteline eccentric bushings will fit them (I don't want to ruin the bushings currently in them to find out). Ideally I want something with bushings + adjustment; hence why I'd like to find a pair of these. Unfortunately they aren't easy to find.
    • @Vee37 How much do you really care about finding these pads again? If your pads are quiet, work well and produce minimal dust, really isn't that enough? If you are set on finding the exact pads again, I suppose I'd do something like this -  Visit your local Jax, find out what brand of pads they carry. If the Jax workshop you previously went to had the pads on the shelf, then you can almost guarantee it will be of said brand.   I'm guessing you don't have the receipt for the previous work and pads. Can you visit a Jax workshop and see if they can look up your previous job to see what pads were fitted?  Still no luck? Put your stalker hat on, find the staff that used to work at the Jax store and ask them. Talk to local workshops, try to find out where the mechanics went to. Talk to Jax workshops, maybe they relocated to another workshop. When it comes to mechanics, its a small world. You'd be surprised how easy it is to track someone down. If these ideas don't work, shit will start getting crazy very quickly.... You could find out every brand and model of pad that fits that car... and try them individually ticking each off the list if it wasn't the one you were looking for.... If you go down this path your going to want to learn how to swap pads yourself, it is very easy, takes minimal tools and space. If you have room to park the car you have room to swap the pads. Plus you have the advantage of making sure all the brake hardware goes back in so they won't squeal! 
    • You miss spelled bearings...
×
×
  • Create New...