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Brazen

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Does anyone know if there is a replacement offset bush kit to correct camber fir the front upper control arms?

I Need to correct the front passenger arm as it now has 2deg neg camber from lowering it compared to the drivers side having 1.2deg neg.

that doesn't sound right but......is this what you are looking for though.

http://www.superpro.com.au/superpro-parts?id=SPF3297K

there is also the strut to chassis arm bush's that fix pull to the left.....these are one of the exchange sets I am offering...http://www.superpro.com.au/superpro-parts?id=SPF2848K

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What is involved with putting the M35 into RWD mode?

Can you simply pull a fuse or does a wire need to be cut? Once the new wheels go on, in theory the space saver will be the wrong size for the Atessa system, so I figure I could pull the fuse and shouldn't have any problems.. correct?

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What is involved with putting the M35 into RWD mode?

Can you simply pull a fuse or does a wire need to be cut? Once the new wheels go on, in theory the space saver will be the wrong size for the Atessa system, so I figure I could pull the fuse and shouldn't have any problems.. correct?

incorrect. pull the front shaft out

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incorrect. pull the front shaft out

Hard job?

The space saver would be trouble with the different wheels, wouldn't it? Think it would be alright to limp it to the next major town (could be 200km?) on a long drive to get the tyre fixed/replaced?

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nah not a massive deal

4 x 6mm allen key bolts to the diff, then its a little tricky to get the shaft out, but you can loosen the gearbox mount to give you a little more room to play with.

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I would just drill it out to 1.5 mm if you plan to keep the stock turbo, 2.5 mm if hou go for a bushed core.

The banjo threads into the block just in front of the passenger front drive shaft.

Just following up on this, does anyone have suggestions for a banjo bolt that is already the right size? I don't have a drill press and it could be a while until I get to one. Seems like a sketchy thing to do without one (I don't even have a vice at the moment!)..

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For the guys looking for more suspension adjustment on there M35:

http://infinitihelp.com/diy/gcoupe/projects/infiniti_g35_rear_camber_kit_installation.htm

I came across this vid of installation of rear arms in a G35, the only bit I found a little disturbing was when they decided to slot the rear arm hole in the cradle and use an offset washer... thoughts?

I believe there is an off set bush available but i have never seen anything like this...

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For the guys looking for more suspension adjustment on there M35:

http://infinitihelp....nstallation.htm

I came across this vid of installation of rear arms in a G35, the only bit I found a little disturbing was when they decided to slot the rear arm hole in the cradle and use an offset washer... thoughts?

I believe there is an off set bush available but i have never seen anything like this...

Considering the rear arm already uses an eccentric bolt set up; I don't really see the issue.

This method of adjustment is commonplace; many cars use it without issue, and the slotting that they do in this instance is to add MORE adjustment to the existing range available.thumbsup.gif

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Considering the rear arm already uses an eccentric bolt set up; I don't really see the issue.

This method of adjustment is commonplace; many cars use it without issue, and the slotting that they do in this instance is to add MORE adjustment to the existing range available.thumbsup.gif

Does it really, I didn't know that... WOW that came of a little sarcastic.

The outside bolt is not correct? I only ask this as when i dropped the rear arm in mine I took out the bolt that attaches it to the hub on the outside is just a normal bolt, did not touch the inner one. Has the stock inner bold have much adjustment?

Mike.

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For the guys looking for more suspension adjustment on there M35:

http://infinitihelp....nstallation.htm

I came across this vid of installation of rear arms in a G35, the only bit I found a little disturbing was when they decided to slot the rear arm hole in the cradle and use an offset washer... thoughts?

I believe there is an off set bush available but i have never seen anything like this...

Mike, this was the reason for my reply. Naturally, I assumed you hadn't looked at the subframe & seen the factory adjustment is exactly that. No sarcasm.thumbsup.gif

Does it really, I didn't know that... WOW that came of a little sarcastic.

The outside bolt is not correct? I only ask this as when i dropped the rear arm in mine I took out the bolt that attaches it to the hub on the outside is just a normal bolt, did not touch the inner one. Has the stock inner bold have much adjustment?

Mike.

No, the bolt in the hub is not eccentric, and it's actually bushed in the hub too. The back arm is a toe adjustment arm. For anything up to around 2" lowered the OEM eccentric will likely suffice.

Depending on how low you drop the car; the toe can end up being so far out that you cannot use the OEM eccentric bolt to adjust. This is normally at stupid "fitment' and "stance" brah ride heights.rolleyes.gif

For normal people; a more "eccentric" (more adjustment) eccentric will do. This is why they slot the hole in the subfame out a little more.

If that's not enough; you can move to the length adjustable arm; as per the dolts in that video who seem intent on using a power driver to undo every bolt, regardless of whether it saves any time, or is actually any easier.

With length adjustable arms; I have no idea why these guys feel the need to ALSO fit eccentric bolts; if it were me, I'd set the eccentric in the centre of its range, and finetune the arm length on a wheel aligner. Then you can make small + or - adjustments with the eccentric.

But hey; I don't use a power driver on pre loosened bolts either...cheers.gif

Edited by Daleo
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Thanks bud, going to drop the stag in for a wheel alignment now... I wasn't going to as I didn't think there would be any adjustment in the back and if they couldn't adjust anything then I didn't want to waste any $$ for no reason.

Mike.

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