Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You can use the RB25 (or maybe it was RB30) sump

User: Fatz did it a couple years back, maybe dropping him a PM?

However if you can use the 26 one, do so.

Stock/diff removed sump is by far the best way to go about it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185613-rb-26-rwd/#findComment-3358565
Share on other sites

  • 11 months later...

I know it's been quite a while since this thread was active. I did a search under drivetrain for anything RB26 related to find out what is out there for the sump issue when making it into a RWD setup.

So far this is the closest thread. I've seen some pictures of a modified 26 sump that was made in Aus. for a RWD application. I was wondering if there were any dimensions or specifics that could be passed on. Or someone or a company out there that makes them. I really dont want to do a RB25 sump and modify that one personally.

Thanks in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185613-rb-26-rwd/#findComment-4122994
Share on other sites

rb 25 and 30 sump needs work for them to fit baffles and pannel beating for oil pickup pipe..

rb26 is much stonger but needs cutting and welding I used the 26 on my conversion..

If you supply the 26 sump I can get it modded and welded for $300

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185613-rb-26-rwd/#findComment-4123279
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is the clearest explanation out of those: Page 77: Turn the crankshaft clockwise two full rotations with the tensioner pulley installation bolt in a loose condition. Insert a wrench into the tensioner pulley hexagonal hole to fix the tensioner pulley in place, then tighten the installation bolts. Tightening torque: 43–58 N·m (4.4–5.9 kg·m). The timing belt tension should be at the correct tension. Basically you turn the engine with the tensioner bolt loose, then use the allen key to hold it while you torque it up. And yes after that a good guide is being able to twist it 90o in one of the long free lengths of the belt
    • good choice....I have a set of those and use them all the time including on this job. Plus, no-one wants a damaged nipple
    • Thanks all, went with nismo strengthened belt and all genuine nissan idler and tensioner Question on RB25DET Neo Timing Tensioner: I have a question about the RB25DET Neo timing tensioner. In one of the videos (minute 20 of https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=17y37BB9xnA and minute 27 of https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pb99s2E9xUg), the process suggests tightening the tensioner pulley installation bolt to the specified torque initially, and then loosening it slightly to allow the spring to set the correct tension. Is this the correct approach? The R33 workshop manual on page 74 states: Loosen the tension pulley installation nuts. Insert the wrench into the tensioner pulley hexagonal hole and turn it clockwise to tighten the installation nut temporarily. The way this is written is confusing. Does this mean: Undo the nut, then reduce the tension by turning clockwise? Snug the nut so it stays in position without applying tension to the belt while removing the timing belt? The manual wording makes it sound like the nut will tighten automatically when you turn the tensioner clockwise , which is unclear to me.   Timing Belt Tension Adjustment Process: After loosening the tensioner nut, you turn the engine two full rotations by hand, which should set the correct tension. Once the tension is set, you tighten the bolt to 43 N·m (4.4 kg·m). Before tightening, you need to insert the Allen key into the hexagonal hole to hold the pulley in place while tightening the bolt. In one of the videos, it’s mentioned that you should twist the belt side to side, or turn it slightly to check if the tension is correct. The belt should turn halfway, indicating the right tension. However, I know that twisting or turning the belt is not a good idea. What are your thoughts on this? Finally, how can I ensure the belt isn’t overtightened? I’ve seen many cases where people have overtightened the timing belt.   Manual Excerpts: Page 74: Loosen the tension pulley installation nuts. Insert the wrench into the tensioner pulley hexagonal hole and turn it clockwise to tighten the installation nut temporarily. Remove the timing belt from each pulley. Page 77: Turn the crankshaft clockwise two full rotations with the tensioner pulley installation bolt in a loose condition. Insert a wrench into the tensioner pulley hexagonal hole to fix the tensioner pulley in place, then tighten the installation bolts. Tightening torque: 43–58 N·m (4.4–5.9 kg·m). The timing belt tension should be at the correct tension.
    • Takes a few minutes to malke one. Wood, or steel, or a wrap strap with some strategically placed solids to provide teh drive onto the ribs.
×
×
  • Create New...