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33 Low Dyno Power Suggestions?


vault13
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Hey guys

This is a follow on from my previous post

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...hl=dissapointed

where I complained about my modded 33 being slack compared to a stock 300zx or soarer.

Once again these are my mods:

Turbo back 3" X-force exhaust

Cooling Pro Type 2 Front Mount

Silicone Inlet Pipe

Aftermarket actuator set for ~11/12 psi

Hitachi H8 chipped ECU. I purchased a custom tuned chip from Kubota, a Sydney based H8 tuner.

Enlarged snorkel to fit IC piping + Apexi panel filter

Front strut brace

Here are the dyno charts.

gallery_36384_11_46725.gif

gallery_36384_11_5367.jpg

I'm new to this modding game but the boost response looks nice to me.

Peak power is dissapointing though, and there's that dip at about 4K.

Kubota says the car should make close to 200rwkw, at least 190.

From the charts he suspects the air flow meter signal is bad, is there some way to test it?

I think I've spent enough money that I should be getting 200kw, suggestions are very welcome.

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yeah man!! thats kinda Really low, maybe u should get a compression test or check for leaks on pipes??!!

maybe its the fuel your using???

erm i got 268RWHP = 200rwkw with just

stock engine,

stock turbo

GFB manual controller @ 10psi

Hkd Pod

3 n 1/2 stainless cat back

=)

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personally i dont beleive dyno readings, they can vary far to much from dyno to dyno and its hard to set a benchmark for what hp you should be getting unless everyone goes on the same dyno on the same day. Dynos are just a tool used for tuning and i think a 1/4 mile time with MPH is a better indicator of its power.

After saying that though i just had a quick read through the old post and you mentioned it doesnt feel quick, so maybe it actually is down on the power.

Going off you boost curve, that looks good, not laggy at all and the stock turbo spooling up as it should. The airflue ratio is a bit over the place and for a "tuned" ecu it should be alot better than that. In saying that it does lean out in the higher rpm to 12.5afr which should produce a good amount of power (as you know too rich and you lose hp). So going off the dyno graph, boost looks good, top rpm afr looks good so the only other factor that could be affecting your power is timing. If the guy has retarded the timing alot to aid in a safe tune this will definately take a chunk off your hp and make the car feel unresponsive and slow. Its amazing what a few degrees of timing can do for an engine.

If it was me i would get the car retuned with some more timing and get the lower rpm afr fixed up, or stick in on another dyno and just do a power run and see what happens. I once got 200rwhp on 1 dyno, literally went down the street to another workshop, did a power run and got 270rwhp, nothing different so that why i dont trust dyno hp figures all that much.

cheers

Edited by R34GTFOUR
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I'd be pulling the AFR's back closer to 12.0:1 and advancing your ignition timing.

Ignition timing is where the power is made.

Advancing it on those AFR's will cause Detionation.

Oh, and if the Rich and retard protection has been removed from the ECU - then push the boost to 12.5psi maybe 13psi.

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MTQ Toowoomba is known to have a lazy dyno. Besides that, what Mafia says more ignition timing. Also maybe the fuel pump is on the way out with afr's tapering up like like that.

You can get a multimeter, battery and fan then measure voltage with no fan and you should get no voltage reading or very little and try with the fan blowing through it the and the voltage should substantially increase.

If you live in town I can give you my standard afm, I know it works :D .

Edited by BAMR33
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Thanks for the feedback guys.

I forgot to mention, I had the base timing checked and adjusted before the dyno.

It was on 20 degrees and the shop adjusted it back to 15 as it should be stock.

The tuner actually recommended I do this before using his chip.

I was thinking a new fuel pump might be in order.

However it seems a lot of other guys have not needed it and I don't have the dosh to throw around right now.

I might take you up on a loan of your afm Brett, that would be sweet.

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It doesn't matter that other guys haven't needed a new fuel pump. It's easy to forget that R33's are actually getting a little long in the tooth and so are their fuel pumps, amoung other things. Each car has a different life so yours could very well be on the way out. If your ECU is asking for a certain amount of fuel to be put in and the pump can't match it you can be in trouble.

Listen to Mafia as I'm pretty sure he knows what he's talking about. I don't have any experience with the Hitachi ECU's so I can't comment on that. Do you have a power figure with the standard ECU in and these mods? would be interesting to compare them. If they were similar then you may be better off running with a stock ecu and something like a SAFC. It may also suggest the ECU or tuning isn't the cause.

Don't forget the basics either, it's no point having heaps of mods to chase power if you haven't addressed things like old spark plugs, dirty air filters, dirty fuel filters, even oil and filter.

Edited by Fry_33
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yeah man!! thats kinda Really low, maybe u should get a compression test or check for leaks on pipes??!!

maybe its the fuel your using???

erm i got 268RWHP = 200rwkw with just

stock engine,

stock turbo

GFB manual controller @ 10psi

Hkd Pod

3 n 1/2 stainless cat back

=)

Also got yourself a happy dyno by the sounds of it...

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Also got yourself a happy dyno by the sounds of it...

LAWL nah, i got 12 dyno runs mate.. n lowest was 260RWHP, and also this guy fastens the car down :thumbsup: unlike my dynos b4 where they put blocks under front wheels =/

coz stock i was getting 208 rwhp different dyno '3 runs only'

:laughing-smiley-014:

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The fuel could be a lot neater and actually should be turned upside down.

Leaner earlier on and then level out at about 12:1.

Either the tuner is pulling fuel up top to hang onto a little bit of power, or you are running out of fuel pump.

The tuner is tipping in a LOT of fuel as it ramps up, looks like he's VERY scared of pinging here.

He doesn't need to be that conservative.

Could pick up some fuel economy and some more torque down low from pulling lots of fuel here.

But timing is what makes power, not fuel. Pull as much fuel out as you can get away with, and wind in as much timing as you can get away with.

But with the fuel in this tune leaning out up top, I'd address this first.

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Is the chip modded/tuned for ur specific car and mods? Or just a universal thing? If its a universal thing the results wont be much good. U need a tune thats specific to ur mods. I have a 34 turbo on a S2 25, 2 inch exhaust, FMIC and stock airbox running about 10 psi and it makes about that. Ditch the chip and get a remap.

Liam

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Its not an auto is it?

Damn! Thats richer than my tune at low revs.

I agree with all the above check you fuel pump and timing.....also if your running a haltec you'd be able to ditch the AFM and run a MAP sensor which would solve your problem of a possible dodgy AFM

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Is it just me or is any1 missing the point its an ECU CHIP not an aftermarket ECU... I would still like to know if its a generic RB25 chip or if it has been tuned specifially for this car with those specific mods. I sold a SAFC that had a tune for the mods I had at the time. No good for the next guy if he has more boost and/or bigger turbo and better injectors etc. Just a thought. Could explain it running so rich.

Liam

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