Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey yall,

I dont know if this is the correct place for this post but,im new to this forum so im sorry.

My names Garret,Im from alberta canada,I drive a 1990 gts-t type m and am currently beginning a neo swap to replace my blown up rb20.I came to this forum knowing that australia has a tonne more skylines than canada and i need information desperately to get this motor in my car before the snow comes,cuz its freaking cold walking.

anyways,sorry for the long ass rant i searched for quite a while on this forum and cant find a neo swap procedure or wiring diagrams for the neo and am hopein anyone of you can direct me to the right place.

looking forward to sharing information and insight about skylines!

thanx!

sincerely,

Garret

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185714-hello/
Share on other sites

It was a compliment... really.

I'm gunna change my name to Hitachi..

or perhaps "Ian Henry Indy" or IHI for short..

or maybe just go all out and change to "MAX POWERS"

you can be hootie Mcboob if you like..

or busty Laroo

I don't know what that is, but I'll just go with that :laughing-smiley-014:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185714-hello/#findComment-3362214
Share on other sites

have you got the neo loom and ecu? your probably going to need them unless your running a complete stand alone ecu.

if you have them then it should be just a matter of swapping the loom around.

The RB20 loom is 15 odd years old and could do with a freshen up anyway.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185714-hello/#findComment-3365896
Share on other sites

^^^ +1

theres no point trying to adapt the rb20 harness to run the neo motor, just use the whole neo ecu and harness and it will be ALOT easier.

if you dont have the harness and ecu and cant get access to one, i would get an aftermarket ecu with a new harness to run, it would be the way to

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185714-hello/#findComment-3366063
Share on other sites

thanx for the input guys^^^,ya i got the harness and the ecu,is a loom the same thing as a harness? also is there any major modifications to the driveline that i need to be concerned about?

any help is appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185714-hello/#findComment-3366241
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

okay! i got everything in supposedly,but the biotch wont start,cranks over and i got dash instruments,just no fuel and when i turn the key off and take it out of the ignition all my lights on the dash are still on..............where is the fuel pump relay located,and where is the ignition relay located.we just hardwired the ignition power wire from the neo to the ignition fuse in the fise box....any ideas??

o the joys of new technology:)

thanx,cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185714-hello/#findComment-3433523
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

got everything working now engine wise muahuahuah...shit hauls so much ass but i havnt even touched full boost yet cuz my fuel pump is surging.

and my diff is done and the driveshaft i got custom made is imbalanced.

i thank everyone that has helped me out on this forum and hope to give insight to peoples questions on this swap

cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185714-hello/#findComment-3496117
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The brakes are all stock bar some DBA slotted discs and the EBC pads and braided lines. The car has brake ducts as standard but they're kinda pointed in the general direction of the brakes rather than really getting at the heat source. I guess I should hit it with an infra red thermometer after a session and see what they're at.  100%! Its just a curiosity more than anything. As I said, high temp brake fluid was such a track day rage back in the day. From people I speak to at the track and threads on here everybody has their own take on it but I'm not gonna scoff at spending a few more bucks. 
    • I've always approached this as, price is comparable between low temp and high temp fluid. Just put in the high temp fluid. I've not going to lose any sleep thinking about could I have saved $20 on brake fluid that is going to live in the car over the next 2 to 3 years. 
    • Nah, the creases were pretty large, and the sheet metal is pretty thin and hard to work out, time alone is in the hours to fix, and would probably have more bog than I would be happy with In other, more happy news, I gave MX5 Mania a call and they have a few clean boots available for $400 a peice, I've contacted Fineline and given them their contact details, I'm a idiot for not thinking of them sooner
    • That really depends on how hot the brakes get and how much of any heat is transferred into the fluid. That really makes it at least a vehicle specific question, and more than like a specific vehicle specific question, depending on what brakes (ie stock, bigger rotors, different calipers) or even what pads are on it. And then there's the question of cooling air. Is there plenty stock? Is there no special cooling arrangements stock? Has some/more been added? In other words, I think you have to do the experiment to obtain the data. And if you;re worried - tie on some ducting?
    • In all the track days I've done over the past few months I've only had 1 issue with braking and thats with my current EBC pads (can't remember the colour, but they're not a track pad). I don't *think* I have had issues with brake fluid getting too hot, my understanding is that when that happens you will have quite noticeable brake loss - which I haven't had.  I'm using just regular ol' Penrite Super DOT4 fluid. I use this fluid in everything and my cars always seem to stop so I see no reason to change, except ... for the 335i. I need to do a fluid flush and was thinking about my fluid of choice and wondering if I should consider using something more high temp? Its not a super fast car by any standards but I'd hate to do a flush and then find myself with no brakes when I get. to Wakefield.  I guess, my question can be summed up as "How fast do you need to be driving to need higher temp brake fluid?"  I remember high temp fluid was considered a must have back in the day when I had my GTR. 
×
×
  • Create New...