Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have an R33 series II with the following mods

FMIC

Upgraded turbo

Alloy radiator

Nismo Fuel pump

PFC

AVC-R

etc

Stock injectors are maxing out so I want to upgrade these (although not absolutely necessary as I am not having any issues regarding knock etc).

To replace injectors (Nismo 555's)+ splitfires + FPR is going to cost me $2500 for parts & tune

Is it worth spending the extra $1000 to add cams (tomei 256's) to the list as well?

I am currently making 270 rwkw on stock internals, and do not really want to rebuild for quite a while. Will cams give me enough noticable mid range without increasing the peak power too much?

The car is only driven on the streets and I am after response not peak power.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185785-worth-the-money/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

im not an expert and this is just what i gather from reading other stuff but with a tune cams can make a fair difference, seen an advert for some HKS cams for supra the other day claiming a 100hp increase after tune

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185785-worth-the-money/#findComment-3361011
Share on other sites

To replace injectors (Nismo 555's)+ splitfires + FPR is going to cost me $2500 for parts & tune

Thats a bit rich!!!

Injectors are around what - $750.

Splitfires - $550

And you dont need the FPR.

With a retune, that puts it around $1700, leaving 400 for the tune which as you have one there already.

Maybe add in $150 for labour for fitting the injectors so $1850 at worst

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185785-worth-the-money/#findComment-3361043
Share on other sites

Thats a bit rich!!!

Injectors are around what - $750.

Splitfires - $550

And you dont need the FPR.

With a retune, that puts it around $1700, leaving 400 for the tune which as you have one there already.

Maybe add in $150 for labour for fitting the injectors so $1850 at worst

$150 for labour to fit injectors??? That's pretty cheap. Where can you get that from? Or all workshops charge that rate? :thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185785-worth-the-money/#findComment-3361116
Share on other sites

Well its not a hard task, make it $200 if you want.

Im helping a mate change injectors in his EVO this weekend, will see how long it takes, but i dont see it being a mission

Either way its a far cry from 2.5k :thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185785-worth-the-money/#findComment-3361117
Share on other sites

If you check the DIY section on the injectors, it's step by step. definately worth a crack.

Also, someone quoted in there they previously had a workshop quote for $350 to replace em! Woah !

So the prices will vary as you shop around.

I'll do it for $200..tehe

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185785-worth-the-money/#findComment-3361173
Share on other sites

Thanks for the replies, I was not going to worry about the FPR, and I know I wont see any gain from it, but I would rather replace the stock one with a new unit and run the same pressure so I know that it wont give me any dramas down the track. I am moving away from Sydney in a few months and want to get everything done that I may want/need before I leave.

Price break down:

Injectors, Splitfires,FPR $1500 incl. delivery from Nengun

Fit injectors $250

Fit FPR $100

Fit splitfires $free

Tune $450

$2300 (and I rounded to $2500)

To add cams will cost me $300 to fit and $800 to buy. which will bring the total to $3400

Injectors are maxing out anyway thought it would be a good time to put the 555's in.

I had the injectors about 12 months ago when we did the first round of tuning and was told we didnt need the injectors just yet and to save them for when I had more mods done - I wish I had just put them in back then.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185785-worth-the-money/#findComment-3361532
Share on other sites

I'm just suprised your stock injectors got you to 270rw... I take it you have z32 etc. Definately get injectors and some splitfires if your packs are playing up, then you should be set.

Yeh a lot of people were surprised with the stock injectors. Yes have z32, coils are not playing up at all, no misfire issues at all.

Any ideas how much I can expect to get back for my stock bits?

Coils, Injectors, Cams?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185785-worth-the-money/#findComment-3364400
Share on other sites

Repeat, DONT need FPR.

put the cams in.

Awesome midrange increases. Good top end increase too, depending on how stressed your turbo is.

Make more power, on less boost. Allows your engine to spin harder too.

Win + Win + Win

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185785-worth-the-money/#findComment-3364593
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
Repeat, DONT need FPR.

put the cams in.

Awesome midrange increases. Good top end increase too, depending on how stressed your turbo is.

Make more power, on less boost. Allows your engine to spin harder too.

Win + Win + Win

Thanks for the advice, I bit the bullet and bought all of it, cams, injectors, coils. Turbo is good for 550 hp so should see a bit more hopefully. Getting a bit close to the limit of the stock internals though when will they go bang!!!

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185785-worth-the-money/#findComment-3383738
Share on other sites

why the splitfires when there was nothing wrong with your current coils? cams definitely a good idea though. I have the tomei's in mine

can't hurt right!!

I like preventative maintenance - didnt want to put cams and injectors in and possibly start having misfire issues.

I am also still planning a rebuild and want to but all of the 'extra' bits necessary so the rebuild doesnt hurt as much when I finally get it done. Having cams,splitfires, injectors all out of the way reduces the 'rebuild' cost significantly.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185785-worth-the-money/#findComment-3383777
Share on other sites

yeah thats true. I did the same thing...apart from the coils. Get the parts out of the way for the future rebuild. But the engine has held on strong without the rebuild

yep exactly another $2k that wont need to be spent at rebuild time.

I am hoping to get an increase of maybe 15 kw to take it to 285-290rwkw which is plenty for the stock internals and plenty enough for a daily street car.

My tuner is excellent so what ever it ends up with will be safe and most importantly drivable.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185785-worth-the-money/#findComment-3383789
Share on other sites

How can your tuner/ fitter for the cams give you a fixed price for the cam installation?

Do you know if your going to need new shims..or that maybe it might be time to change your springs?

Or maybe you might need to change the retaining bolts(Cam fixing bolts)?

BTW..hope you have cam gears...

Have you read up on cam installs?

$300 sounds like a..drop in don't worry about clearances..same shims..hope the motor still is ok once it leaves the workshop.

Please keep us posted with the cam install...all the rest of the fitting are just bolt on....cams can be a little more tricky.

EDITED: Bad Grammar

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185785-worth-the-money/#findComment-3383848
Share on other sites

Do you you are not going to need new shims..or that maybe it might be time to change your springs?

Or maybe you might need to change the retaining bolt?

Please keep us posted with the cam install...all the rest of the fitting are just bolt on....cams can be a little more tricky.

I think he's running an RB25. Hydraulic lifters.

Point noted on springs, though most punters seem to get away with OE springs if using Pon Cams.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185785-worth-the-money/#findComment-3384042
Share on other sites

I think he's running an RB25. Hydraulic lifters.

Point noted on springs, though most punters seem to get away with OE springs if using Pon Cams.

Yes RB25, bought the Tomei 256 poncams. Should I buy new springs as well?

Oh and no I dont have cam gears, I sold them ages ago, another mistake? Should I buy just the exhaust gear again to keep the VCT?

Little concerned about it now but thanks for the advice.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/185785-worth-the-money/#findComment-3384045
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • looking forward to your t56 swap man its a game changer if it works! 
    • So, when are you trying the new GR86 or BRZ?
    • Uncle Duncan Yeap, FI Interchiller  Works well, normal IAT's cruising with the WTA only went from 50°c+ to 25-30°c with the interchiller  Before, when on it hard, the IAT would see 80-90°c, now, the highest has been was around 38°c IIRC IAT is measured under the blower hat I recommend it for the street or strip where your only on it hard for 10 or so seconds, but it wouldn't be efficient for sustained track use as it would heat soak from the AC turning off or whatever it does during WOT to protect the compressor It really needs the AC running for it to not heat soak and keep the WTA coolant chilled My WTA coolant temps when just cruising is around 2°c
    • Hey Mark...sorry to interrupt your career change to hair dressing... but...did you ever fit the interchiller to the commodore, and if so how was it? And, who made it?
    • I've been pondering this, I really enjoy the convertible thing, for me, it's like riding a motorbike, without all the issue of riding a motorbike, mainly, my old sore arthritic joints getting beaten up, and, being able to do it in shorts and a T-shirt and not needing a helmet and all the other gear required, especially like wearing jackets and pants in the summer, or needing 6 layers of cloths in the winter, or not having wet weather gear handy when your 100km away from home on the bike when it decides to start raining As for the hard top and its Coupe look, whilst I do lose all that open top feeling that I really enjoy, from my experience with the NB with a detachable hard top, the cabin is a much nicer place to be, the difference in noise for one, a hard top quietens down the interior, alot, with the soft top up or down it's pretty noisy, which, after 5 or so hours, can get tiring But, as you stated, the detachable hard top totally changes the look of the car, in a really good way, and for me, the look of a detachable hard top is so much better than the PRHT which looks more like a after thought with its weird bulbous rear roof line For me, the minimal effort of putting in on, or storing it after removing it, is well worth the time and effort for the look alone And yes, I'm sure the next owner will be grateful for it as well.......  
×
×
  • Create New...