Installing A Manual Boost Controller

[R338OY]

Installing a manual boost controller on an R33 (stock intercooler)

Pliers

Rag

Small bolt

Cable ties

WD-40 (optional)

Cotton Buds (optional)

Time: 20-30 mins

Difficulty: Easy

For this guide I used a TurboTech (TT) boost controller. I've written it for the guys i've seen posting that aren't sure what manual boost controllers do, or how to install them. It's a small job and not worth getting a mechanic to install if you have the time. There's other threads about manual boost controllers, and also about the TurboTech valve, but i've tried to be more detailed. Feel free to give comments & suggestions.

Here's how to install it:

Locate the factory soleniod on the right side of the engine bay. Here's what it looks like:

First you remove the top hose form the solenoid. It's a bit hard to budge so

Same story with the second hose on the solenoid. Remove it, it's connected to a tee-piece. The tee sits between hoses connecting the intercooler and wastegate actuator. The TT valve will replace the tee-valve here:

There isn't much room to budge the tee out, so instead of risking a cracked or broken hose from excessive jerking just remove the hose connected to the intercooler. I sprayed a little WD-40 to make it easier, and used cotton buds to clean inside after it was off.

Before you install the TT valve between the hoses adjust the bleed screw so you can blow freely into the top left barb. This keeps the boost level safe for initial adjustment.

Install the valve so it looks like this:

Make sure the clamps are fixed firmly to the hoses to prevent air leaking, or hoses popping off under pressure. Cable ties can also be used.

Make sure when you take it out for a test you have a boost gauge - the valve works without it but it's just safer to recognise boost spike.

Here's a quick list of BAR=PSI conversions so you can accurately read the boost levels. As far as i know stock Skyline turbos should be kept at about an 11psi/0.75BAR limit, as a short spike at higher boost could damage the turbine.

1 BAR = 14.5 psi

0.9 BAR = 13 psi

0.83 BAR = 12 psi

0.75 BAR = 11 psi

0.69 BAR = 10 psi

0.62 BAR = 9 psi

0.55 BAR = 8 psi

0.48 BAR = 7 psi

Enjoy the extra boost!

Notes:

You should test the boost in different gears. I found that 3rd boosts a couple of pounds higher than 2nd. So try different gears throughout the rev range.

Also you'll notice a serious mid-range power increase. That's where this valve does its best work.

A final note- the hose you connect to the TT valve from the turbo has a small copper restrictor inside which funnels airflow through a small hole. Consider replacing this hose (marked with a red stripe) with hollow ones for improved airflow, or simply push the restrictor out with a screwdriver. I removed it and didn't notice an obvious power increase, but it goes toward increasing throttle responsivness. Nissansilvia.com has a thread about removing the factory restrictors.

Good luck!

Edited November 7, 2007 by R338OY

[engo]

hey dude... great DIY.. i just have a small problem... when i bought my car i bought it modified... my intercooler piping has that hose from it..but it goes straight to the external wastegate.. ( i also bought a turbotech) .. so all i have is a single hose with no t bits in it or anything... and the stock solinoid just sits at the side with nothin on it..or plugging it.. can ya help us at all??

cheers alex

[R338OY]

hey dude... great DIY.. i just have a small problem... when i bought my car i bought it modified... my intercooler piping has that hose from it..but it goes straight to the external wastegate.. ( i also bought a turbotech) .. so all i have is a single hose with no t bits in it or anything... and the stock solinoid just sits at the side with nothin on it..or plugging it.. can ya help us at all??

cheers alex

Is that stock intercooler piping or an aftermarket setup? Basically the port on the opposite side of the adjustment bolt should connect to the pressure source (intercooler pipe) and the port adjacent to the bolt should connect to the wastegate actuator.

You might need to cut the hose in half and put the turbotech in between. Don't forget to cable tie/clamp the ends.

The turbosmart website has instructions for installing a boost tee. Works on the same principle as the turbotech. Take a look at the diagrams, that might help.

Good luck mate.

Edited September 23, 2007 by R338OY

[Rb_lover]

Is this the same for the Rb20 motor?

[R338OY]

Is this the same for the Rb20 motor?

I haven't tried it on an RB20 but if you follow the same principle: Intercooler pipe --> Boost controller --> wategate actuator then you're right.

Just follow the hosing from the factory boost solenoid and find the factory tee, then replace it.

If you want to post some pics i can point it out mate.

Cheers

[Rb_lover]

I haven't tried it on an RB20 but if you follow the same principle: Intercooler pipe --> Boost controller --> wategate actuator then you're right.

Just follow the hosing from the factory boost solenoid and find the factory tee, then replace it.

If you want to post some pics i can point it out mate.

Cheers

not my car but il get some pics soon for you so u could show what needs to be done..btw its in a vl calais..cheers

[R338OY]

not my car but il get some pics soon for you so u could show what needs to be done..btw its in a vl calais..cheers

No worries i'll have a look. Try get some close ups, makes it easier.

Thanks.

[rbee25]

nice brief write up..

but its already been diagrammatically emphasized many times in the following post:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t73375.html

[R338OY]

nice brief write up..

but its already been diagrammatically emphasized many times in the following post:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/t73375.html

Thanks for the comment rbee25. I'm aware of that thread, as most people are. It's very long and easy to get lost in the many comments, plus it's in the 'Forced Induction Performance' thread- so as you said, a brief write up in the easy to find 'D.I.Y.' section was needed for beginners to use.

Cheers

[MacR33]

Hey, I've included a pic of what i done to my car. Doesn't seem to be working. Can u tell me what i've done wrong? Thanks.

Edit: Mate with his R32 told me to do it this way.. from what is said above.. mine looks wrong =\

Edited April 27, 2008 by MacR33

[MATT_R33]

hi guys. i just installed a turbosmart dual stage boost controller this arvo. all went well after reading a few different posts on here, however i have a few questions. firstly the std boost actuator valve that cuts in at 5000rpm and ups the boost a little had 2 hoses going to it. 1 went to a T pieve where it split to the intercooler pipe and the other end to the wastegate. the other hose came from under the intercooler piping that was kind og shaped like a U? does this make sense? i wasn't sure what to do with that one so i just blocked it with a screw. also the boost controler doesn't seem to be working in high low mode. it just sits on 0.5 bar and thats it. i didn't like the switch that came with the kit so i just went to jaycar and bought a nice little black switch that fit nicely into my ash tray. the only problem was that it had 3 prongs on the back of it. there was a little light on the button, so i figured that the middle one was to power the light?? not sure why i thought that because the light didn't come on. had power fmo the cigarette lighter on one side. wire from boost controller on the other... i'm assuming it should work?

bofore i took it for a drive i could hear the solenoid in the boost controller clicking so i'm assuming it was working. maybe that extra hose has somethig to do with it?

any help would be great guys.

also just in case anyone was interested, i've just fitted EBC slotted and dimpled brake discs all around and RED stuff pads. had completely standard before. the new brakes work awesome and i've only driven them for about 15 mins so i assume they'll get even better. a few hard brakes and they felt bedded in and responsive. no vibrations or noise/groaning when coming to a stop. now it stops with MUCH greater power than before.

thanks.

[R338OY]

hi guys. i just installed a turbosmart dual stage boost controller this arvo. all went well after reading a few different posts on here, however i have a few questions. firstly the std boost actuator valve that cuts in at 5000rpm and ups the boost a little had 2 hoses going to it. 1 went to a T pieve where it split to the intercooler pipe and the other end to the wastegate. the other hose came from under the intercooler piping that was kind og shaped like a U? does this make sense? i wasn't sure what to do with that one so i just blocked it with a screw. also the boost controler doesn't seem to be working in high low mode. it just sits on 0.5 bar and thats it. i didn't like the switch that came with the kit so i just went to jaycar and bought a nice little black switch that fit nicely into my ash tray. the only problem was that it had 3 prongs on the back of it. there was a little light on the button, so i figured that the middle one was to power the light?? not sure why i thought that because the light didn't come on. had power fmo the cigarette lighter on one side. wire from boost controller on the other... i'm assuming it should work?

bofore i took it for a drive i could hear the solenoid in the boost controller clicking so i'm assuming it was working. maybe that extra hose has somethig to do with it?

Hi Matt, yes the hose you blocked is correct. It's connected to the plumb-back BOV piping.

It sounds like you've fixed it so it should work.

1. Have you got the controller facing the right direction? The arrow should point toward the wastegate (correct me if otherwise) because that's where air flow is directed.

2. Have you adjusted it several times to see if the boost increases? Or always stuck at .5 BAR?

3. If it's a dual stage then you need to adjust a PAIR of dials, not only one. Maybe you've only done the second stage.

Upload a pic of the setup if possible.

Post some opinions people! I'm a boost noob at the best of times

BTW good on you for giving it a go Matt

Edited April 29, 2008 by R338OY

[R338OY]

Hey, I've included a pic of what i done to my car. Doesn't seem to be working. Can u tell me what i've done wrong? Thanks.

Edit: Mate with his R32 told me to do it this way.. from what is said above.. mine looks wrong =\

Any luck with it? The Turbosmart valve should be the same install as TurboTech, there are probably heaps of people on the forum that have the same valve and can help you out!

[G3TFKD]

Hey, I've included a pic of what i done to my car. Doesn't seem to be working. Can u tell me what i've done wrong? Thanks.

Edit: Mate with his R32 told me to do it this way.. from what is said above.. mine looks wrong =\

I don't see why you have the t-piece. In my car, it goes from the cooler piping into the boost controller, and then from the boost controller it goes to the wastegate.

So:

Hose from intercooler ---> Boost controller ---> hose to wastegate

and the arrow should be facing towards the wastegate

Maybe try taking the t-piece out

[MATT_R33]

no i cant do that. the t-piece is part of the urbosmart kit and you cant take it off.

Yes, my arrow is pointing the right direction, Towards the wastegate. i re wired my switch just to make sure it was working properly. because it had a little light in it i realised that it would need an earth. so with the car off and bonnet up last night i re wired the switch and listened for the BT to click in and it was. i've made sure my hose clamps are all still on and nice and tight and they all were. how much should i have to turn up the BT? it has 2 dials, 1 for off and one for on-Second stage. i guess i'm just a little hesitant to turn it up too much. i've probably turned it a full turn and thats it. should i be going way more? i've got a HKS boost gauge on my steering column and its in Bar, so i want it at about 0.8 right? i've got a cooler and a cat back exhaust. soon getting a front dump pipe. on that note.. has anyone ever heard of or used the $250 dump/front pipe from just jap in kirawee sydney? just wodnering what kind of quality i can expet if i buy one?

[R338OY]

i guess i'm just a little hesitant to turn it up too much. i've probably turned it a full turn and thats it. should i be going way more? i've got a HKS boost gauge on my steering column and its in Bar, so i want it at about 0.8 right?

has anyone ever heard of or used the $250 dump/front pipe from just jap in kirawee sydney? just wodnering what kind of quality i can expet if i buy one?

Try turning the dail 1/2 turn at a time and gently testing it out. Some controllers need more turning than others. On my turbotech i'll turn again and again with little difference until i reach the point where the spring inside gets really compressed and from that point even a 1/4 turn will make several psi extra.

Lots of people get the Just Jap dumps. 99% say to get the split dump version ($270). Quality-wise it's good for the price. Check out JJ in the trader section.

Cheers

Edited April 30, 2008 by R338OY

[Sklyn]

So did you remove the standard T piece and replace it with one in the Kit?

As far as i am aware that is where the controller should be.

[Sklyn]

what I am unsure of though, is will the earth switch for Low/Full boost still work?

[R338OY]

So did you remove the standard T piece and replace it with one in the Kit?

Yes that's correct.

what I am unsure of though, is will the earth switch for Low/Full boost still work?

If you're referring to a dual stage MBC then you need to wire it up properly.

For Turbosmart contollers (others are similar) the blue wire is positive and brown wire is negative.

Connect the positive to a 12v ignition supply (such as splicing the positive wire going to the clock, or anything going to the battery that can take an extra 1 amp load. Secure it with solder if you can).

Ground the negative wire to the chassis (find a bolt on the body of the car and fix it there, either remove the gearstick fascia and snoop around there or route the wire to the engine bay) and you're done.

Mount the high/low switch where you like, such as the gearstick fascia (you need to remove the screws beneath the ashtray to unclip the assembly).

Fixing the tee-piece, dial housing and lines is explained on the Turbosmart site.

Sending vacuum lines between cabin/firewall can be done through the steering tunnel as far as i know (there's plenty of wires there). If anyone knows a quicker spot to do this please post!

Cheers

Edited May 1, 2008 by R338OY

[MATT_R33]

hey guys. thanks for all your help. i just needed to have the guts to turn it up a few turn a just carefully boost and see how far it went. i re wired my switch to earth on one of the terminals so that the light worked on the switch. i mounted it on the bottom of the ashtray so it was out of site. bit of stuffing around to get the ashtray in once the gearboot facia peice was in, but after a little bit of filing and some jiggling it slotted in nicely. i mounted mine on the front of the strut tower. easy access to put a nut on from inside the wheel arch to hold the bracket on and there was already a thread just next to it for the earth to go on. i just sanded off some paint around the bolt hole.

now all i have to worry about is trying to control myself and not have it on the high boost setting all the time. so tempting though.

thanks for the tip on the dump pipes as well. i guess i'll just go in there and buy whatever i think is right at the time. i'm assuming they all have the right mounting holes for the oxygen sensor and all that?