Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If you want the best quality weld in cage in the state got to Walker Chassis, CAMS guys take one look at the Walker badging and pass it straight away!!! But by the sounds of it you want cheap, so bolt in sounds the best for you! Just try ringing around the wreckers!!

If you want the best quality weld in cage in the state got to Walker Chassis, CAMS guys take one look at the Walker badging and pass it straight away!!! But by the sounds of it you want cheap, so bolt in sounds the best for you! Just try ringing around the wreckers!!

Yes, I hear Wlaker do some very nice work.

First thing to do is work out exactly what you want the cage for, and what regs it needs to meet (ANDRA, CAMS etc) get a copy of the regs to be safe.

Then you can work out where to go.

Also, if your car is a streeter, be aware of the rules for cages in road cars in SA.

Here's an extract of the rules for vehicle modifications, although it may be an out of date version - hope it helps you.

Roll Cages

Due to the increased risk of occupant injury in vehicle accidents the fitting of full roll cages are not permitted.

However, the fitting of a roll cage rearward of the driver is permissible providing that:

a. No part of the roll cage is contactable by vehicle occupants when positioned in their normal seating

position.

b. The roll cage is at least 150 millimetres rearward of the front seat occupants when the front seats are

located in the most rearward adjusted position.

c. All rear seats and seat belt assemblies fitted in the rear compartment are removed.

d. The operation and effectiveness of the front seat belt assemblies is not affected in any way by the roll

cage.

e. That no person travels in the rear of the vehicle at any time.

Basically a cage that meets CAMS or ANDRA regs will make your car illegal in SA.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock equivalent turbo replacement is a bit of a nightmare. The old Hitachi ceramic things were pretty good for their time, but they have primitive, vintage aerodynamics. The only thing they have going for them is a light turbine**, and there are plenty of other light turbine options these days, in both materials and CNC manufacturing methods. So, the old stocker makes absolutely no power at all compared to its physical size and its (not very low) boost threshold and response. ** and the ONLY thing that was good about the ceramic turbine was that it was light. In all other respects it is a nightmare. To get a turbo that is anywhere near equivalent in terms of power capacity (ie, to avoid it being "bigger" and needing tuning/fuelling/etc) you have to physically downsize. And that is not a "stockish" replacement. Doesn't just fit where the old one did. At least a frame size down, probably need a new dump, probably need new inlet and outlet piping made on the compressor side, new hose connections as D said above. I say, if you have to suffer that much work, you might as well do the same work to fit an even bigger (than stock) turbo, have more power (and hence have to do injectors, ECU, etc), and love life, instead of suffering with stock power levels. Or, you get a light highflow from someone like Hypergear. A highflow that has not been pushed too far from stock. There are still modification consequences here though. HG's cores are smaller than the massive Hitachi core, so it is shorter, moves the compressor housing backwards and requires mods to the air side piping. Plus new hoses. Looks stock, mostly fits where the stock one did (with the previous caveats mentioned), makes a bit more power but can be run at stock boost levels and not cause too many ECU problems. But, seriously. It's 2024. Like - 25 years since the R33 came out. It's time to put an ECU in it. I Nistuned my car (on RB20 ECU then later again on the Neo ECU) and it was the single best thing possible for minimal money. Dial out the R&R bullshit, fix up the fuelling and timing to make it more efficient for normal driving (cut fuel consumption by >10%). Nistune is not an option for you unless you change the ECU, so you might as well just do a standalone. it will be worth it. And then you can tune it up to the limits of the injectors and AFM, which is pushing 200rwkW and enjoy some actual squirt, instead of the lazy barge-like motion you get from a stock engine, turbo and management.
    • He can't post pics until he's at 10 post count.
    • Welcome James.....will be interesting to see how much fun there is in the project. .....where's the pics?
    • Your profile doesn't say where you are, but you can get your current turbo rebuilt by any competent turbo shop, places like Precision Turbos or GCG They can replace the core with a modern ball bearing unit and should be able to source same or slightly larger wheels to fit in you housing. Note if you change the core you may need new oil and water lines too
×
×
  • Create New...