Pulling Turbo's Off

[7yphon]

Is there anything I should replace/update just in case "Other then the turbo's "

1993 Nissan R32 GTR

Taking everything off so should I replace the lines and shit

[QWK32]

the studs and nuts that hold the turbo's on are good to change. once they've been on for a while and you loosen them of they just don't have the same holding torque anymore. don't really want them rattling loose. lines would all depend on the quality of the existing lines and also the demand that the new turbos require. would want to starve them of oil and, if needed, water.

[7yphon]

I was thinking about replacing the oil and coolent lines with braided.

[Faid]

its for the styling if you replace them with braided. what kinda turbo's are you planning on running. Replace the bolts, and don't forget a good new gasket set from nissan, these are highly recommended.

[GeeTR]

I replace as much as I can, so when I need to play with it again, i don't have to go through working with rusted or stretched bolts and rounded nuts.

- All gaskets should be OEM Nissan where possible

- New manifold studs, and nuts (lube when torqueing to prevent over tightening, and use (I fabricate) metal tabs to bend over the nut to prevent loosening.

- I too recommend investing some coin on race fittings and braid. Don’t be tempted with knock off Korean stuff, stick to Speedflow, Earls etc. Swivel fittings will help with setting up the pipe runs.

- Don’t forget shield from heat, and abrasion. Small gauge braided line will cut through anything if left to rub on it long enough.

- Unfortunately many people use race fittings simply cus they look shite hot, but I reckon they should be used to speeden up and secure, the disconnect / connecting of lines. They'll minimize leaks and of course last longer. Keep in mind these attributes and use them to improve Nissan's original design (my modifying mantra

- Notice the way Nissan design the water feed for the turbos for instance. Its taken from the interior heater hose (A) (back of motor, drivers side firewall) comes round passenger side, round front of motor and empties on nipple near thermostat (B) In between those two points, waters "T'd" off for the turbos. Clearly this was designed so that water flowing through the lines that run close to the manifold doesn’t get heated up while waiting to go through the turbo; there’s a continued loop of coolant, always providing the cartridges at "close to" engine temp.

- You'll notice the pain and hassle of removing perished rubber hoses, dodgey wire and compression clamps off; replace hoses and fit good quality worm driven clamps, and "T-bolt" clamps for larger bore pipes. (If I cant find a worm drive clamp im familiar with, I buy one, take it home and torque it till it skips a tooth... all aren't made equal) Out of habit, I double clamp critical pressure / vacuum hoses

- Good time to degrease blowby oil from all piping (Degreaser soak then meth / Kero mix)

Hope it helps

[R.3.2.G.T.R]

how much do the braided lines cost on average for 32 GTR? my oil line is leaking.. :-(