Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

you've lost pressure in your power steering system and most probably lost fluid too. Did you seal off the HICAS lines after you installed the bar?

oh wait... sorry, I was thinking R32... R33's run electric HICAS usints don't they. Ignore that. Just ask GTRGeoff :mellow:

hey yeah, the power steering fluid was empty!!!, filled it up, took it for a drive, and still i have very heavy steering, like no power steering. How long before the power steering fluid begins to work?, i thought it should be instant?

do as suggested above, just for the record what did you actually do when u installed the bar??

when i installed mine i did not need to do anything with fluid etc, just undo the 2 bolts holding it in and also undo the ends of the original hicas unit, than replace with new lock bar

theres a tutorial for an r33 in the DIY section

when you've filled it up, start the motor, and turn the wheels from lock to lock a few times to pull the fluid right through. Then fill resoviour back up.

As all of above but incase that doesnt help - have you removed the hicas computer in the boot? If so that could be the problem as it does not need to be removed.

I have read on here a few times of people unplugging their computers and describing same problems as you.

If the steering had no oil, then you have a leak somewhere yes?

Wont be disappearing otherwise.

I would be investigating that, its just co-incidental that it occured the same time a HICAS removal as they are independent of each other on the R33.

Could be a dead power steering pump, or a rack in need of attention. Not a lot more to is really with PS on the Skyline

well ive been reading up on some threads, and ppl are saying that when removing hicas in an r33 gtst, you lose the easy steering at low speeds, since hicas unit controls the front power steering assist?

edit: id like to add, i had done a manual conversion at the same time of doing this hicas lock, and my speedo is off by heaps, i was told this could contribute to the power steering issue, as its electronically controlled against the speed of the car, and may have just cut off altogether?

Edited by nsta

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I mean yes, if you're starting from scratch on an unknown engine yes you don't need to be doing all kinds of math in the background but if you're doing relatively minor changes like AFM + injectors + boost up with some aftermarket turbos it takes quite a bit of math if you want to do something like maintain OEM fuel + timing tables but compressed and then a bit more load scale up top. I think I've spent too much time working on big engineering nightmares though so I'm a big fan of trying to constrain the scope of whatever work I'm doing as much as possible and trying to get it right before moving on. For example, a local owner just did the usual E85 + single turbo conversion to his R32 GTR and nearly burned his car to the ground doing some spirited driving up the local mountains. Turbine is unshielded and too close to the hood insulation. It's tough to balance "just get the project done" and "seemingly small details can cause massive setbacks I'm not willing to deal with".
    • No idea about Neil's steering wheel, but I have the same behaviour in the Stagea. I doubt it has ever been messed with so might be normal. Indicating to turn right at a roundabout and correcting even a little bit to the left to go around will cancel the indicator. Never considered it an issue other than it being a bit odd.
    • Does anyone know if this is off centered? Looks like it, when I indicate to go right, but turn my steering wheel slightly left it cancels (was always like that even before I started messing around with it) was wondering if anyone else has the same issue?
    • Nothing photo worthy since last update, lots of little plumbing bits for the AAC/Cold start valves, and unfortunately I still need another couple of parts for the brake booster line and the AAC into the plenum. Otherwise it all looks good to start up engine wise, onto checking the electrics/interior
    • Good news mate, plenty of spares available 5:40  
×
×
  • Create New...