Custom Paint Jobs

[PHT33]

lol

[exXU1]

Have a look at these guys as well people http://alsacorp.com/index.htm check the chrome paint out.

[Craved]

Alsacorp gear is awesome, didnt know they had it in a can

i think the kits are about US$35k for the full booth setup and 4 guns station

[exXU1]

About to paint my streeter , i think i will go a glacier blue, white base with blue/violet pearl. Not sure yet though.

Does any one remember the R32 on the Nengun site of old in light blue - it's gone now but that's the look i would like preferably. Any one have any idea what colour that was ?

[exXU1]

Also a handy site , tab back and put in the year for Nissan colours http://www.tcpglobal.com/aclchip.aspx?imag...issan-pg01.jpg-

[FIRTY2]

may get deleted off here but ill just put it out there.

I can do cumstom paint jobs at good rates - Alot better than any panel shop would give out and most likely better quality too. Candies Pearls, Flakes, and even marble effects

PM me for info so i dont hoar this thread (im still waiting on the amdinistator to get back to me about putting up a permanent place on jc)

[M3ld]

I have a gun metal grey 4 door 33. The clear coat is f**ked. I am lookng at getting the black flakes off of this site. Now what would I have to do for this paint.....So after I rub it all back then what? It is stone chipped and needs a few dents fixed. So after the prep work is done....Do I have to coat it in gunmetal grey or what kind of undercoat, followed by the flakes in clear and then clear it over again?

Edited August 24, 2009 by M3ld

[hr32gts]

Does Anyone know of any company in melbourne that will put my widebody kit on and spray paint it? I want a top quality job on it?

[exXU1]

You have a bit of work to do here. The original paint m ust be Dyna braided back, not all the way through to the base coat - just evenly sand the clear coat and where the clear coat is flaking or comming off - feather it by sanding it back until you break through to the grey base coat underneath and do till you are happy that that area is smooth.Putty all your small digs etc with a fine filler and always sand back with a block to keep surfaces true and flat.Use an acrylic primer where and metal or repaired areas need somethin g to etch too. If you have no repaires then you can go straight over your sanded cear and Grey with the next step.If you do have reapaires as i think you do , then i would primer any areas that look like they need it to make sure the paint sticks, sand bach with dry 400. then blow the car off with air, then wipe the whole car with prepsol/ wax remover.Then make sure your floor is wet to stop any dirt in the air getting on you paint job ( after seeping of course). You can then applie you base coat Grey - just take the Nissan paint code to an Auto paint supplier and get mixed up - two litres if your only doing the outside. You will need to buy, The base coat Grey 2 litres, 2 litres of base coat binder to apply the flakes and then 2 litres of 2 pack clear coat(no flakes- just finishing coat). @ ltrs of Prepsol/wax remover ( cleaning agent before painting),dase coat reducer for the base coat (10% when mixing) and 2 ltrs of 2 pack thiners, 10% also.

If you want to put the black flakes over the Grey then you need to add the flakes to a base coat clear or binder. Once applied the base coat clear with the flakes in it will stick up and be rough, dont and i say do not attempt to smooth out the roughness by attempting to do more coats of clear over the top as clear will not FILL and just F%$k it all up. the bigger the flake the harder the work and make sure you have the correct tip when applying.

So - you have plenty of blocking back to do ( sanding) until there roughness has gone, block back with 400 wet and dry. Once your happy , block back again by hand with 800 wet and dry.

Blow off and do all the required preping - wet the floor - make sure you hair - cloths do not have dust etc and no finger marks oil etc on the car - thats what Prepsol does - cleans the surface. NOW - spray your clear in nice even sweeps about 250 mm away fro your job - slowish even sweeps about 3 seconds back and forth over a meter or there abouts. Try and avoid runs. Two coats of base coat clear and then one of binder with your flakes in then finally two coats of clear only - leave about 10 minutes between each coat on all.

Then shut all the doors and leave it till the n ext day.

quote name='M3ld' date='24 Aug 2009, 09:23 PM' post='4786161']

I have a gun metal grey 4 door 33. The clear coat is f**ked. I am lookng at getting the black flakes off of this site. Now what would I have to do for this paint.....So after I rub it all back then what? It is stone chipped and needs a few dents fixed. So after the prep work is done....Do I have to coat it in gunmetal grey or what kind of undercoat, followed by the flakes in clear and then clear it over again?

[driftloveae86]

+1 for alsacorp

[M3ld]

You have a bit of work to do here. The original paint m ust be Dyna braided back, not all the way through to the base coat - just evenly sand the clear coat and where the clear coat is flaking or comming off - feather it by sanding it back until you break through to the grey base coat underneath and do till you are happy that that area is smooth.Putty all your small digs etc with a fine filler and always sand back with a block to keep surfaces true and flat.Use an acrylic primer where and metal or repaired areas need somethin g to etch too. If you have no repaires then you can go straight over your sanded cear and Grey with the next step.If you do have reapaires as i think you do , then i would primer any areas that look like they need it to make sure the paint sticks, sand bach with dry 400. then blow the car off with air, then wipe the whole car with prepsol/ wax remover.Then make sure your floor is wet to stop any dirt in the air getting on you paint job ( after seeping of course). You can then applie you base coat Grey - just take the Nissan paint code to an Auto paint supplier and get mixed up - two litres if your only doing the outside. You will need to buy, The base coat Grey 2 litres, 2 litres of base coat binder to apply the flakes and then 2 litres of 2 pack clear coat(no flakes- just finishing coat). @ ltrs of Prepsol/wax remover ( cleaning agent before painting),dase coat reducer for the base coat (10% when mixing) and 2 ltrs of 2 pack thiners, 10% also.

If you want to put the black flakes over the Grey then you need to add the flakes to a base coat clear or binder. Once applied the base coat clear with the flakes in it will stick up and be rough, dont and i say do not attempt to smooth out the roughness by attempting to do more coats of clear over the top as clear will not FILL and just F%$k it all up. the bigger the flake the harder the work and make sure you have the correct tip when applying.

So - you have plenty of blocking back to do ( sanding) until there roughness has gone, block back with 400 wet and dry. Once your happy , block back again by hand with 800 wet and dry.

Blow off and do all the required preping - wet the floor - make sure you hair - cloths do not have dust etc and no finger marks oil etc on the car - thats what Prepsol does - cleans the surface. NOW - spray your clear in nice even sweeps about 250 mm away fro your job - slowish even sweeps about 3 seconds back and forth over a meter or there abouts. Try and avoid runs. Two coats of base coat clear and then one of binder with your flakes in then finally two coats of clear only - leave about 10 minutes between each coat on all.

Then shut all the doors and leave it till the n ext day.

quote name='M3ld' date='24 Aug 2009, 09:23 PM' post='4786161']

I have a gun metal grey 4 door 33. The clear coat is f**ked. I am lookng at getting the black flakes off of this site. Now what would I have to do for this paint.....So after I rub it all back then what? It is stone chipped and needs a few dents fixed. So after the prep work is done....Do I have to coat it in gunmetal grey or what kind of undercoat, followed by the flakes in clear and then clear it over again?

Awesome, thanks for the dude. When my shed in finally built I'll be having a crack at it!

[Nackerz]

Just brought some of this stuff for my missus vl

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...e=STRK:MEWNX:IT

[R32oNate]

Awesome post! Definitely considering using these pearls and flakes for my future projects.

[Buddy]

anyone know if you can put a pearl in the colour if ur not using a clear?

[pineapple]

hey ppl dose any one got ny info or have a mat finish paint job

[beemae30]

hey pineapple just google it matt finish's are common place on nearly every vehicle

[Power Glide GTR]

If you guys are doing some serious custom paint jobs , take a look at these guys - when you order that special paint for $500 to $1000 a litre - this is all its is!

These Pearl pigments and other metal flakes etc are mixed with a clear and applied -of course you need a base coat etc etc and need to know what you are doing .

have a look at the web site and there are instructions and examples.

The cost is fantastic - see if your paint shop will use if you supply, SAVE hundreds.

IF you want a " just dipped in paint " look then maybe this is what you have been looking for.

Hope you find this site helpful.

http://www.paintwith...com/bigsale.htm

link dont work

[369]

If you guys are doing some serious custom paint jobs , take a look at these guys - when you order that special paint for $500 to $1000 a litre - this is all its is!

These Pearl pigments and other metal flakes etc are mixed with a clear and applied -of course you need a base coat etc etc and need to know what you are doing .

have a look at the web site and there are instructions and examples.

The cost is fantastic - see if your paint shop will use if you supply, SAVE hundreds.

IF you want a " just dipped in paint " look then maybe this is what you have been looking for.

Hope you find this site helpful.

http://www.paintwith...com/bigsale.htm

link dont work

get rid of the "/bigsale.htm" and it will work then

[Cooper Customs]

Hi everyone,

I do not mean to cause controversy at all, i think this a good thread, but this is not the proper way to do it. I own and run a custom shop, i have painted many custom cars and bikes, and even have a few SAU members cars in my shop right now.

As i said i DO NOT mean to cause drama on this thread, i just simply wanted to give my opinion and help others painting their car themselves or wanting to learn and have a go themselves.

Using this pigment will not last, and is not the correct way to create affects in paintwork. You can NEVER put anything in the final coat(s) of clear. The clear WILL de-laminate from the substrate/panel/car.

If for example, u are wanting to repair and paint your car, these are the processes that i carry out, (minus my tricks of the trade)

Strip the car completely, windows and all

Block the car down with 180 grit to show imperfections

Do all ur repirs with hammer and dolly and body file.

Use slight skims of nikki/bog/body filler to reapir small imperfections. DONT use too much as this will create too much film build from the panel top layer of clear.

Once all your repairs are done and blocked, DONT use a D/A/ wizzer/ sander, or what have you, it will create ripples.

Finish all repairs with 180 grit sandpaper

Hi-fill/primer the car, minimum 5 coats

Guide coat (GMH black) and block the car 180, using a nice hard long block

Now, after the car is blocked u can use a D/A wizzer, as long as you know how to use it and the pad is not f**ked and wobbly and stuff. it must be straight

Guide coat the car, and u can wizz 320

Then guide coat again and wet rub by hand or soft block if ur not confident of not leaving finger marks with 800 wet

For silver or black i finish with 1000wet, just to back myself up.

now there is a lot of tricks i have left out as i cant give all my secrets away, but u get the idea of what must be carried out in what order.

Candy like this pigment will fade, suck in and drop gloss, and it, under no circumstances can be added to clear. u must add it to binder or an inter coat clear, which is like a binder but containing a catalyst. i wouldn't use a candy like this i didn't trust. i only use House Of Kolor or PPG Vibrance.

Also, applying candies and metal flakes HAVE to be done a certain way, there is no guess work in this. u HAVE to know what u are doing and have done it many times before.

Even pearls, tho not as hard as other affects, it has to be applied a certain way for maximum result.

I have worked along side painters such as Gene Winfield (Winfields Custom Shop, Vegas, Nevada) and Charley Hutton (Charley Hutton's Color Studio & formerly Boyd Coddington Hot Rods)

I hope this help anyone wanting to give it a go in the shed or workplace. Anyone who gets stuck can swing by my shop and I will endevour to help as much as i can.

Good luck

Thank You

Cooper Customs

[JDMGTR17]

Well done cooper, nice to see someone willing to help out n give some tips. After all painting isn't just painting is it!!? Even more so, its great to see that someone else still wet rubs their work haha. Not many of us left mate, in Vic anyway.