Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Engine rebuilt 5000kms ago.

Rebuild included:

o New GTR rods

o High flowed turbo rebuilt

o Steel head gasket

o ACL race series bearings

o Reconditioned head

The rebuild was looked after by Julian (widebody32) at Jay’s Race Engines. Julian's GTR incidentally won HP Heroes in this years summernats; so this job was done by someone who certainly knows their stuff.

The car is currently pulling 265 RWKW off a safe street tune. Anyone looking for more power could probably squeeze 275 out of it

Engine cont.

• ACL forged pistons

• After market injectors

• FMIC

• Oil catch can

• Turbosmart type3 blow off valve

• N1 oil pump

• N1 water pump

• Splitfire coils

• Aftermarket fuel pump

• Aftermarket fuel regulator

• K&N POD filter and cold air box

• Blitz Dual Solinoid boost controller

• Recently rebuilt gearbox

• Exedy single plate clutch

• 3” exhaust from cat-back to 5Zigen tip

• Microtech ECU

• Adjustable exhaust cam gear

Suspension

• Lowered springs

• Bilstein shocks / coilovers

Body

• GTR front bar with GTR blinkers

• GTR side skirts

• 19” wheels with some decent dish

Other

• Alarm and Touchpoint immobiliser

• Engineer’s certificate

• 12 months NSW rego.

Located in Canberra.

Asking for 20k.

Adam

post-23895-1190514495_thumb.jpg

post-23895-1190514514_thumb.jpg

post-23895-1190514531_thumb.jpg

post-23895-1190514544_thumb.jpg

post-23895-1190514577_thumb.jpg

Edited by AdamACT33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186277-skyline-gtst-r33-95-series-15/
Share on other sites

It's sure a nice set up, makes as much power as my GTR which has $14K spent on her. And the dyno certainly doesn't over read power. I was pumping 280kw at Croyden and only 266kw on this dyno.

It looks like a very clean car as well. Sad to see it go up for sale.

How many KM's on the car itself mate? Any outstanding problems?

Cheers,

Tommo

It's got 213,000km on it. The owner I bought it off in January believed it should actually be at around 160k but he accidentally 'bumped it' forward when he was replacing the dash.. there's no way to prove that one way or the other so we'll just stick with 213k I guess. It's lucky to have done 7000km since I got it.

The car has been running quite nicely since the rebuild and no problems have cropped up.

Edited by AdamACT33
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok interesting i guess ill wait till using a manual gauge before making assumptions.
    • Not in any way a logical conclusion. Also, looking at those logs, I struggle to see how that much oil pressure can go away that fast unless you are sucking air into the pickup. Meanwhile the ECU voltage is chucking a huge wobbly which seems to be tied to the throttle position. 100% throttle results in decreasing voltage. It's a mess.
    • So didn't get around to installing a manual oil pressure gauge and then decided to take the car for a cruisey drive to a cars and coffee and brought the laptop along with to get another log using more gears to see if its an oil pressure issue under acceleration or after. this log has 3 gears of WOT where as previous had 2 and the oil pressure dropped once on the brakes, and the same again happens here which is interesting as it shows it can hold oil pressure while under acceleration but once slowing or just the lower RPM after a pull pressure drops. I will be chucking a manual oil pressure gauge on to confirm but so far this makes me feel it is not an electrical issue. Something else i realised is the pressure sensor also is giving temperature information and the temp stays steady the whole time which makes me feel like the sensor itself is showing a true pressure reading.
    • LOL.... fk...   there goes 25K to make 200kW
    • For sure the later RB26 variants had a different setup (6 cam voltage sender?), but the RB25DE/DET share the same ECU pinout/PCB footprint, and at the ECU plug it ends up being 'throttle sensor in' & 'throttle sensor out' (to A/T TCU) ...you stick a multimeter on these pins and you'll find them directly connected (0 ohms) ; I had an pair of Nissan ECUs on the bench long ago, and I noticed this throttle sensor in/out link, actually linked to an op-amp ...which was unpopulated on the NA board, but present on the T board and I went 'ah-ha!' in some moment of clarity... ...it wouldn't surprise me if they changed strategy here though (in the software and actual monitoring of this signal), because they did with other stuff (A/T signals).. and 0.45v as a trigger point makes sense, as that's what the external TCU units expect at idle ; kudos, thanks for that insight...I suppose it boils down to whether or not Consult can display real time data of that signal's voltage... ...in any event, it presents the same target...ie; rotate TPS unit to achieve 0.45v to suit both ECU&TCU, and where do you goto from there? Just disconnect TPSwitch connector and/or that plus TPSensor connector....or do you go for the throat and disconnect IACV solenoid and see if it still stalls? (probably throws a recoverable fault code and goes for default idle strategy?)...
×
×
  • Create New...