Notchy All Gears After New Clutch

[Rekin]

Hey,

I got a Exedy Heavy Duty with 1050kg pressure plate installed into my r32 GTS-t couple of days ago.

Ive noticed that all my gears are notchy now when they are shifted into.

You can feel a resistance when pushing it into gear.

This is also evident in Gear 1 when stationary. (ie. there is a resistance in half way of its travel and then extra push has to be done) Once it clicks into place it can be pulled out/in easily until clutch is released and pressed in again.

Could anyone please explain what the problem could be?

Mechanic told me it was my syncro's in the gearbox and because its a heavy duty clutch it wont be the same as stock.

But gear 1 doesnt have any syncro's so it shouldnt be notchy?!

He adjusted the clutch pedal, brining it further out, but the notchyness is still there.

Could someone provide me a good possible solution to the problem so i could chase up this problem?

I did not have this problem with my old clutch, only happened after new clutch was installed....

Thanks all

[ferni]

Sounds like your clutch isn't disengaging properly?

Clutch shouldn't have any effect on syncros. Once the clutch is fully disengaged it plays no part in the changing of gears???

Especially since you say when stationary you have trouble getting it in first. That suggests to me that the gearbox is still rolling over a little.... Try putting it in 2nd then into 1st - you may find this easier since the 2nd gear has syncros and will line up the box first.

[Rekin]

yeah its deff not lining up properly when trying to engage gears on idle...

Would you happen to know how to fix this? New master/slave cylinder? dodgy clutch install?

Makes driving crap now cause you can feel the resistance in all gears and annoying when at lights and have to force it into 1st..

Thanks ferni!

[ferni]

Well it sounds like the clutch isn't disengaging properly....

As to what is causing that i'm not sure... it could possibly be hydrolics ie master/slave etc... check for leaking around both? If they aren't leaking then it may be the clutch itself....... i'm really not sure - maybe someone smarter than me on here can give you better advice sorry

[operationsideways]

It does sound as if the clutch in not fully disengaging. To check this, jack the car up off the ground fully (all 4 wheels), then start it, put the clutch in, select 1st. With the clutch still in have somebody check to see if it is driving the wheels. If so take it back and have them fix the problem.

[QWK32]

when was the last time you changed the slave cylinder? it might be worn and was only just appling enough force to disengage the original clutch. with the heavier clutch it may be struggling.

how much play do you have on your clutch pedal before you feel resistance?

and as far as i know reverse is the only gear that doesn't have syncro's.

[Rekin]

thanks for the help.

I've never changed slave cylinder and probably never has been since factory.

Clutch pedal was extended to near same height of brake pedel.

There is no clutch pedel play when it was extended.

Its pretty much resistance straight away (ie no 1cm travel free-play, if thats what you're referring to)

cheers

[Godzilla32]

1st gear deffinetly has a syncroniser assembly. Its combined with 2nd gear on the same syncroniser hub. The same goes for 3rd and 4th gears.

Check that when you fully depress the clutch you are getting good travel at the clutch fork. If they machined the flywheel exceessively or changed any other component that would effect your slave to throw-out ratio (clutch fork ratio) then that could also be the cause. Make sure both the clutch master cylinder and clutch slave cylinder aren't leaking. (peel back the dust boots and check for fluid thats leaked past the seals. Also check for correct fluid/level in the gearbox. Make sure there is no air in the clutch hydraulic system. Bleed the system to be safe. More than likely it will be a hydraulic issue by the sounds. Im with the point on the heavy duty pressure plate being a strain ont he tired slave/master (seals). Check for leaks.

Feel free to PM me, as your mechanic is giving you the run around and thats not how it should be. He has supplied you with a product/service and he should be following it up. Hell, it even sounds like he could make a buck out of the work on the hydraulic system. Foolish.

[B0oStEr]

I fitted a 925kg clutch and had to lengthen the master cyl. pushrod adjustment just to get it disengage.

Even then it only just released when I buried the pedal into the carpet.

It felt very heavy and never went over centre so the car was a pig to drive

I took the clutch out and returned it to the supplier.

The clutch builder reckons there is a lot of flex with the heavier diaphrams in the stock covers and the release bearing moves about 7mm before the clutch even starts to release.

He disassembled the pressure plate and fitted a spacer behind the diaphram that changes the geometry.

Now it releases perfectly and the operation feels much more like a factory clutch only a bit heavier.

More importantly I can drive the car hard now and not crunch any gear changes.

[VSPEC-33]

It's a long shot, but could he have also changed the gearbox fluid when he installed the clutch. If its heavier weight than what you had you'd notice the notchiness(if thats a word )

[Rekin]

thanks for the replies,

Took the car for a constant drive on the freeway and noticed when in 5th gear at 100km/h i get a weird feeling vibration, most likely a drivetrain vibration as i had a wheel alignment/balance done before new clutch and everything was fine.

What would be causing this weird vibration/roughness when travelling at this speed?

Flywheel unbalanced?

Thanks ~_~

[salival]

Hey, I installed a Daiken Excedy HD clutch into my skyline (R32 gts w/ rb20det in it) when I first installed it the clutch was fully bled but would NOT engage gears.. I took it to several clutch shops who all agreed the clutch was fully bled but the clutch plate is just "too" thick to start with..

After about 1500km of gear crunching the clutch is a breeze to drive with no issues.. although, the damage to my synchros is another story..

I can EASILY hook 3rd gear and the car is sideways now, the clutch is a dream.. but I t hink the clutch plate was too thick to begin with.. or spacing the pressure plate out would have helped.

just my observations, may be wrong..

Thanks,

Scott

[kjb_r33]

Something that hasnt been mentioned and is worth a look is to make sure your clutch pedal box isnt cracked. Heavier pressure plate and the crack tends to open up instead of transfering movement to the clutch fork.