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Are You Cracking Dba Rotors?


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ive used 5000's many many times and never had any dramas.

Recently on a stock braked GTR the 4000's lasted about 3 months and never even seen the road before cracking.

We have 5000's on Greg's S15 and hauling the big RB26 time after time has not effected them in any way. My GTR has 355's fitted but wont be used till the oran park sprint in october.

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The previous owner had the DBA4000 rotors fitted before I bought it...

since then Ive lost count of how many track days/sprints I have done, yet for some reason my DBA4000's (i only have front fitted) seem to be going strong.

Is it cause I'm not driving "that" hard or i have no ducting?

From what I have seen and with people on here and other clubs/forums - 50% have said had they have had dramas with them and I havent...are mine about to go shizienhousen?(what are the signs to look for?)

If they are...what are the best upgrades from the DBA4000's?

(sorry for teh n00b questions!)

Cheers,

Chris

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The previous owner had the DBA4000 rotors fitted before I bought it...

since then Ive lost count of how many track days/sprints I have done, yet for some reason my DBA4000's (i only have front fitted) seem to be going strong.

Is it cause I'm not driving "that" hard or i have no ducting?

From what I have seen and with people on here and other clubs/forums - 50% have said had they have had dramas with them and I havent...are mine about to go shizienhousen?(what are the signs to look for?)

If they are...what are the best upgrades from the DBA4000's?

(sorry for teh n00b questions!)

Cheers,

Chris

Then you aren't trying hard enough! :dry: Check the reutrn slots for the start of the cracking....

Upgrade - I would suggest Project Mu hatted rotors imported from either Nengun or Greenline. If not use the group buy for the RDA stuff. Failing that just use something that isn't a DBA4000 - pick something else from their range....

Try getting this sort of shit past the scrutineers - "Honest it is ok - it hasn't cracked ALL the way through"

post-5134-1191304753_thumb.jpg

Edited by djr81
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Actually, i cant check my rotors as they are still with DBA. But are the return slots always at the edge of the outer vane liek that. Being a a corner there is already a stress concentration there...they would be far better doing the return slot mid way between the bridge between the rotor faces

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I'm running longlife slotted on the rear. no return slots, no cracks. I'm running a fairly ordinary rear pad too that wears out at the rate of 1 set/3 track days.

If you are using a set of rear pads in only 3 track days then they must have aprety low temp and fade as those are typically the properties of pads that wear quickly. This means they never really generate enough heat to really fatigue the rotor like much of the higher temp pads with better adherent friction properties.

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chris are yours slotted or plain? also possible DBA have changed their materials lately, despite people using dba 4000s for years it is only in the last 18 months we have heard about cracking

Slotted Duncan.

Dino had them on the car when he owned it, so they have been there around 3 years plus?

djr - haha too true! not hard enough!! :bunny:

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Actually, i cant check my rotors as they are still with DBA. But are the return slots always at the edge of the outer vane liek that. Being a a corner there is already a stress concentration there...they would be far better doing the return slot mid way between the bridge between the rotor faces

I don't think so, but I can't be sure.

post-5134-1191378878_thumb.jpg

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Well rack up a set of dead RDA rear rotors as well. I didnt expect much from them and true to form they are dead as well. There is no way the rears failed because of lack of proper warm up or cool down...but in the heat of action the temps just seem to go past the metallurgy of the rotor.

So, next set of rotors i am going to get ungrooved and machine my own slots...so sick of using these so called performance rotors that simply arent up to the task of stopping a car at the track :(

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Well I will give the RDA's a try at the front of my thing early next month. I am getting well sick of continually chucking rotors at the thing when it won't stop well anyway.

Maybe the trick is to keep the slots well away from the edge of the rotor. Looks to be how the grown up brake companies groove theirs. Maybe someone can get a hold of some DBA blanks.

Actually there is a question. Other than the slots & the paint are the DBA 4000's any different to their poverty pack versions?

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they claim they are 'heat treated' I'll give them some fking heat treating. my next set will be project mu or endless. I have a new set of RDA sitting here and will give them a crack but I'm not putting too much hope out there.

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Yeh, they are no doubt nice rotors at home on the street. But as soon as you throw semi slicks at the car and accordingly throw a racey pad at the car to make use of that grip under brakes...well road rotors hate it. I think its cheaper to just get a competition rotor and be doen with it

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Interesting read.....I have DBA5000's on the front and apart from some surface cracking I've had no issue.

I will be forced to upgrade my rear rotors soon....considering people have had problems with both RDA and DBA's can someone recommend a good rear rotor they have used?

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Interesting to look at the slot design on the G4s, it appears quite sensible - the slots dont reach the edge, and are almost tangential near the edge as they curve around, so would spread the stress nicely.

g4brakekitcomplete.jpg

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Interesting read.....I have DBA5000's on the front and apart from some surface cracking I've had no issue.

I will be forced to upgrade my rear rotors soon....considering people have had problems with both RDA and DBA's can someone recommend a good rear rotor they have used?

The DBA 5000 should be fine for the rears. Not sure about the hand brake though if you use that alot.

It appears only the 4000's cause problems. The 5000 slot pattern is different, ie doesn't extend to the edges.

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