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After a handful of events the Project Mu's are still going strong .

R32 TT brings this post to my attention, about DS2500's being referred to as disk crackers by Abo Bob.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fe...ce-t189757.html

How may peeps who have cracked rotors have been using DS2500's ? and do you think that the pad could be a source of the prob too ?

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DS2500s are poo pads. I used one set on 6 year old DBA 4000s and another set on new DBA 4000s. They both survived to tell the tale. Endless though, they cracked new DBA 4000s on the front then only to crack near new RDA on the rear. Endless CCX, awesome pads and stopping though

So Roy,

are you saying that the ds2500's did NOT crack your disks ?

I know there are better pads out there, and now that DS series pads are so expensive, they are a bit average for the buck.

But, I'm willing to listen to any combo if it stops cracking disks. Last set of Dba's lasted an embarressingly short time ( the boxes they came in hadnt even made it to the bin yet )

I have a mate who has been thru all my troubles, and went to Ap disks (355 hatted ) with massive brembos, and has now cracked them too, Theyre not even 10 events old.

Would be nice not to have to fork out for disks so often, starting to make me postal.

I'm even thinking of going the opposite way, and going really cheap disks and just throwing them away each time.

So Roy,

are you saying that the ds2500's did NOT crack your disks ?

I know there are better pads out there, and now that DS series pads are so expensive, they are a bit average for the buck.

But, I'm willing to listen to any combo if it stops cracking disks. Last set of Dba's lasted an embarressingly short time ( the boxes they came in hadnt even made it to the bin yet )

I have a mate who has been thru all my troubles, and went to Ap disks (355 hatted ) with massive brembos, and has now cracked them too, Theyre not even 10 events old.

Would be nice not to have to fork out for disks so often, starting to make me postal.

I'm even thinking of going the opposite way, and going really cheap disks and just throwing them away each time.

The DS2500s didnt crack any of my rotors, but i dont think its as simple as that. I thnk Dunan hit the mail on the head with using un slotted 4000s. The only difference between my oroginal set of DBA4000s and the others i have had are the slot design.

For the money if i have any further rotor problems and i donthave any brake setups under the couch i am just going to grad some slotless rotors and run to a machine shop and get them to slot them for me like the Alcon or Perormance Friction rotors. I was surprised that it seesm DBA had done this for a batch of rotors themselves. Hopefully they catch on and start doing it to all performance rotors.

pf_rotors.jpg

DSC01927.jpg

Like i said even DBS made some vaned rotors with simialr slots

dba_48_curved_rotors.jpg

If you are crackign 355 AP rotors then once is bad luck i suppose. 2 times and i think you have to really look at how you are warming up and cooling the rotors. Is it always the same side that cracks?

To whom did you send your enquiry?

345*32 - for the Evos. No idea what the hat offset is, however.

http://www.project-mu.co.jp/e/product/caliper_R6.html

I sent it to [email protected]

Thanks for the link. Hopefully I get a response soon

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys, just got front and rear Project Mu's for the bus. SCR-Pro for the front, and SCR for the rear (only because you can't get the Pro's for the rear - so not hatted)

Just thought I'd throw up some pics for your interest. These are only of the fronts. Note that they are sold as a Left and Right. It will be difficult for you to see in the photos but the vanes inside each rotor follow the same slant (roughly) at the slots on the outside of the rotor. So in the pic below with the two discs show, the left is on the left, right on the right..

Just got standard 296mm fronts at the moment, need to last me until I can afford some big brakes.. but, if these prove to be able to cope with the pads/fluid I'm running, maybe I won't need anything bigger...

Sorry - I had to throw the picture of the "Japlish" on the box for humour...

Can't wait for my "battle between man and machine"! <drum roll> :blush:

post-20408-1215440325_thumb.jpg

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Edited by R32 TT

Some Photos of the rears.. for the record, I'm painting them black... they look shocking - but the rotor material is hopefully good stuff and that's all that matters.

Note that the vanes inside the rotors are not slanted in any way they are straight up and down - so even though the boxes are 'labelled' left and right, they're not really. Not like the fronts.. yes the slots run in a particular way for left and right but I really doubt that makes any difference at all so I'd say that purely for cosmetic reasons to keep it consistent with the way the fronts look.

post-20408-1215596354_thumb.jpg

Not nearly the same kind of "intake" for the air at the center what with the handbrake hub being in the way like it is..

post-20408-1215596383_thumb.jpg post-20408-1215596415_thumb.jpg post-20408-1215596441_thumb.jpg

Notice Richard after your 'toe incident' I was very careful to hold my thumb back in all of the above photos.. :D

Edited by R32 TT
Are you painting the centres black all round?

Probably just the rears a the moment. I think the fronts are anodised and so to do them properly I'd probably go get them anodised black.. I reckon the paint would come them.. The fronts don't look too bad - its just the rear that look like crap..

Why do you ask?

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