Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i cant stand the atmo bov. im going back to the stock one. is there anyway i can make it hold boost better?

i cant remember where i saw it in a thread but isnt there a little breather hole...should i block it up?

Edited by R33GOD
  • Replies 138
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yeah take it off and block off that little hole.

And to make it hold even more, "adjust" up the spring tension by crushing the top of the bov in a vice. too crush it even more, tap in the top too a rounded bowl shape. It'll be super tight now, and will be able too hold your desired boost.

This is the hole to block. Use a screw/tape/hot glue/whatever.

post-28076-1191325229_thumb.jpg

It can be crushed to about this height. It'll collapse in it's proper order, just let the vice do its work.

post-28076-1191324937_thumb.jpg

Tap it on the top and round it inwards for even more tension.

post-28076-1191325146_thumb.jpg

You may experience flutter under certain conditions. Usually only under light throttle back offs when under boost.

I just crushed it till I felt it stop. I don't know if you can get solder to stick to cast. I used some tape folded over a couple of times.

You'll feel it when it can't crush anymore. The nipple will touch or bottom out and may bend a little.

Edited by KeyMaker
im gonna try n find something to block the hole off now and use my uncles vice tomorow and put it all back together. is there any downside to this or should i be all good?

Just make sure whatever you use isn't going to get sucked/pushed through.

Use a piece of wood with the vice to crush it.

You can use a ball pein hammer or a hammer and shifter to round the top in.

The only negatives could be the flutter that everyone argue's about. It only happens when you back off the throttle lightly when under boost. Gear changes and sudden back offs it functions normally.

It flutters under that condition because of the tighter spring tension, and the vacuum isn't able to pull the diaphragm up. Any aftermarket BOV does pretty much the same thing anyway.

Edited by KeyMaker

i tried the fan case screw. the actual thread is not tight in the hole but the head of the screw fits perfect. what i dont was put teflon around the screw and put thread locker just underneath the head of the screw. if that dosent work il try somthing else

I've came across a few different sized case fan screws.

These are the type I used - http://www.pccasegear.com/category83_1.htm

Unsure if they are identical to the ones I have but thats what they look like.

They were very difficult to screw in as it was very tight they were also super tight when screwing in to a computer case fan.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm interested if anyone agrees with what you've said, and can give a good reason. Temperature of powder coating should be below any temperature you'd use to alter the wheel structure.  Powder coat typically 200 to 250. Annealing if that's what people are claiming would be occuring, starts at 300, and depending on the alloy, can need even up at 400+.   That's the only part I can think of that could cause an issue that people are believing it's from the rim losing hardness and becoming too soft.
    • Negative probe should be on the cars chassis. Positive on the wire.   Start as said above by unplugging everything (unplug the lights, and switches. Now at the switch, there is a wire from the fuse, to the switch, so out your positive on that terminal. It should read open circuit. If it reads something, especially a stupid low value, the short is somewhere between the fuse and the switch. If that's fine, now put the positive probe on the wire that goes to the headlight (at the switch plug). If it reads stupid low, the fault is from the switch, to the headlight.   Another quick test, is take the whole LED light setup from the left, and plug it into the right side, does it still blow the fuse? If you put the right hand side led light setup on the left hand side wiring, does the left hand side wiring now blow?  If the blowing fuse swaps from right to left doing this, your LED lights are the issue.
    • Anyone know if it's a problem to powder coat forged alloy wheel centers (Rays/Volk GT-C). some say it's bad and can damage the alloy, some say it's not a problem.
    • Hey guys, I'm reviving an old post but I'm finally getting around to working on this now. I removed the battery to get a better look at the wires and i traced the wires from the headlight to the fuse box in the engine bay, but the wiring looks fine? The wiring for the R/H headlight is 3 wires and then is bundled up with the large diameter wire that goes underneath the fuse box. I didn't take it apart yet. I know you said that its a short circuit somewhere between the fuse box and the headlight. But could it be the headlight switch on the dash? Also, i pulled out my multi-meter and set it on the Ohms, but i'm not sure where to put the negative probe and the positive probe.     
    • I have a 2 lt in Sydney. It was fitted on a R33 GTR, not used for several years . If you are interested email me on: [email protected] I'm not on this forum much .
×
×
  • Create New...