Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all..

I have the choice of getting a Microtech for my R33 or going to Dr Drift so they can tinker with my ECU and still get some big power out of it.

Microtech is about $1400-$1500 from one of our suppliers here and to get my ECU done, Dr Drift quoted me about $1300...

I thought Dr Drift were cheaper then that and now I don't know what to do!!

What are your thoughts people??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186704-microtech-ecu-or-dr-drift/
Share on other sites

R33's are more expensive from Sam as there is more work involved.

I've got a couple of mate's going to Sam to get their cars done very soon.

Personally I'm not a fan of Microtech's, and my car is tuned by Sam, so you know what I'd recommend!

take into account that you will still need to pay to get the micro tech fitted aswell as dyno time to tune it

Yeah, it's looking like Dr Drift for me... that was what I was leaning towards anyway. They sound like they know what they are doing....

can I ask why you're not going with something simple like a power FC?

only thing about a flashed ECU is that its a once off, and to redo it you'll have to reflash the thing, and there's only so many people who have the knowledge to do it. At least with a power FC you have a choice of tuners.

that said, given the choice between microtech and sam, I'd go with sammety sam.

can I ask why you're not going with something simple like a power FC?

only thing about a flashed ECU is that its a once off, and to redo it you'll have to reflash the thing, and there's only so many people who have the knowledge to do it. At least with a power FC you have a choice of tuners.

that said, given the choice between microtech and sam, I'd go with sammety sam.

PowerFC too hard to find now.... Anyone selling??

depends on how much power you are after, tweaking the comp will only get you so much power output, can you run larger injectors off a tweaked comp? or do you have to run a aftermarket ECU? i have a microtech ECU with 550cc injectors ect., you can get them cheaper than that second hand...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No-one in Aus/NZ would pay that much, because they remember when a turbo Skyline/Silvia was a cheap but awesome alternative to the mediocre shit sold here locally at the time. I'm sure over in USA there are enough trust fund kids who will have their R34 GTR, whatever the cost
    • I am stuck with enthusiast and very unhappy, even though Lumley, Shannons and Famous are all options, they all require a lock up garage, and my situation (basically a walled off compound from the street) is insufficient because the car is under a carport. I'm confident to resolve the situation I need to build a roller door with fascia in-front of my roller gate which is a solid opaque metal rolling gate. In any other universe moving the roller door 2 meters in-front of the garage door would still constitute the same amount of security but oh no. My insurance rates suck to the point of when I joined a market research for Enthusiast they were all surprised that I paid about 2-3x what other people were paying with Enthusiast when I asked them why their rates were so high. If I lie about having a garage, I save like $10 a month with enthusiast. (It's about $2600 p.a for 5000km of driving for a very unsustainable agreed value). Lumley has terrible reviews but @Duncan made me consider calling them when renew time came up - but their horrible reviews plus Christmas time made me... forget.
    • Not far. If all you want to do is know that they will reciprocate and move oil around a tiny bit, then a metre or so is all you need. Half metre fore and aft is enough.
    • That's the spirit!
    • It's fine. Basically if it has seized (eg due to moisture/rust in the bores) it will either break free on the starter or it won't turn....then you'll know it is freed up If it turns and doesn't start (reasonably likely) you will need to troubleshoot but most likely issue is a seized injector from moisture; same if it starts but missfires. Anything else could have happened (eg mice nibbling electricals) but the only way to find out is to close your eyes and hit the key I'd also change the fuel filter again after a few minutes of running as it may catch a heap of crap on first start
×
×
  • Create New...