Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

my friend owns an r32 gts-t, stock springs, shocks, rims/tyres, steering wheel etc.

he showed me today a puzzling problem how the steering is normal up till about 65-70km's, which then the steering wheel automatically turns to the left roughly 15 degrees while the car stays straight and remains there.

if you slow down under the 65-70km mark, the steering wheel then turns back to 0 degrees while still staying straight. pretty tripped out!

he's had no smashes or anything like that.. does anyone have any idea what would be causing this?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/186876-wierd-steering-issue/
Share on other sites

sounds like the hicas is turning one way and so he is automatically correcting.

remember that the steering wheel has a connection to the rack, so if the steering wheel turns you are turning the front wheels, the steering wheel just can't turn on it's own without turning the wheels.

problem. the hicas controller is stuffed. solution. replace the controller or get a lock bar.

it happened to me but it was a bit random and generally when accelerating hard, so i locked the rear rack.

My car used to do something similar, the wheel always sat about 10deg left of centre and at about 80km/h when accelerating hard, the back end would get a bit quiggly for a couple of seconds - only around 80km/h.

Removed the rear steering rack yesterday and whacked in a lockbar (cheers NV_01), steering wheel now sits straight and no more squirling in the back end..

I can only assume I've been crabbing along for a while now O_o another thing I noticed was that when reversing out of my driveway the wheel would sit about 10deg to the RIGHT, then left again when moving forward. I think hicas was fubar'd!

THANKS FOR THIS INFO GUYS!!! I thought I was just going crazy with my R32 because on the freeway the steering wheel would sit to right but when I was driving in normal streets (60k zones) the steering wheel would be straight. Might have to convince the g.f to let me get a lockbar and see if that fixes it.

Why did nissan even put these hicas systems in in the first place. Everyone takes the bloody thing out.

Yeah i had similar problem on GTR locked the hicas and never done it since, very unsettling, and weird when you tell people and they say no that can't happen, Yeah well we know different, It can and it does.

PJ

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Very decent bit of kit. Definitely black it out I reckon.  
    • Because people who want that are buying euros. The people with the money to buy the aftermarket heads and blocks aren’t interested in efficiency or making -7 power, they’re making well over 1,000hp and pretty much only drive them at full throttle  best way to way make money is know your customer base and what they want and don’t spend money making things they don’t want. 
    • It's not, but it does feel like a bit of a missed opportunity regardless. For example, what if the cylinder head was redesigned to fit a GDI fuel system? It's worth like two full points of compression ratio when looking at modern GDI turbo vs PFI turbo. I'm pretty reliably surprised at how much less turbo it takes to make similar power out of a modern engine vs something like an RB26. Something with roughly the same dimensions as a -7 on an S55 is making absolutely silly power numbers compared to an RB26. I know there's a ton of power loss from things like high tension rings, high viscosity oil, clutch fan, AWD standby loss, etc but it's something like 700 whp in an F80 M3 vs 400 whp in an R33 GTR. The stock TF035HL4W turbos in an F80 M3 are really rather dinky little things and that's enough to get 400 whp at 18 psi. This just seems unwise no? I thought the general approach is if you aren't knock limited the MFB50 should be held constant through the RPM range. So more timing with RPM, but less timing with more cylinder filling. A VE-based table should accordingly inverse the VE curve of the engine.
    • I've seen tunes from big name workshops with cars making in excess of 700kW and one thing that stood out to me, is that noone is bothering with torque management. Everyone is throwing in as much timing as the motor can take for a pull. Sure that yields pretty numbers on a dyno, but it's not keeping these motors together for more than a few squirts down the straight without blowing coolant or head gaskets. If tuners, paid a bit more attention and took timing out in the mid range, managed boost a bit better, you'll probably see less motors grenading. Not to name names, or anything like that, but I've seen a tune, from a pretty wild GT-R from a big name tuner and I was but perplexed on the amount of timing jammed into it. You would have expected a quite a bit less timing at peak torque versus near the limiter, but there was literally 3 degrees of difference. Sure you want to make as much as possible throughout the RPM range, but why? At the expense of blowing motors? Anyhow I think we've gone off topic enough once again lol.
    • Because that’s not what any of them are building these heads or blocks for. It’s to hold over over 1000hp at the wheels without breaking and none of that stuff is required to make power 
×
×
  • Create New...