Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

PLYNX,

What diameter was the wooden dowl.

Didnt think wood would work so well, but it can be forced in there for a tight fit so makes good sense.

Cheers

Hi there, the battle of the spigot bush hey? Hopefully you have triumphed by now but if not here's my 2c.

In the past I have found that grease works a treat on brass bushes which are "press fitted in place", grease plug behind wooden dowel gotta be a slip/slide not tight fit (else just force bush in further) to prevent grease escaping as much as possible, belted with a BF hammer creates a massive momentary hydraulic shock behind said bush, be sure to place rag over ejection point for escaping grease else you may wear it, never had anything to do with steel bushes however it sounds like maybe your steel bush has been "shrink fitted/pressed in" & is a whole heap tighter. In any case brass bushes are no way as hard as steel & do not grab to the same extent as a consequence.

Shrink fitted bushes I have dealt with in the past have typically been "rear axle wheel bearing retainer rings which need to be busted off. Ground/grind down thin in one place to the point where they can be flexed/fractured/split with a cold chisel & hammer to weaken metal to metal contact then slipped off & discarded. If this is your problem then maybe grind a groove that can then aid in splitting the bush, followed by the above grease extraction method to pop the weakened bush?

Maybe a dremel & small stone will get the grinding/grooving done? Hacksaw blade width x2 would be enough to spring the bush to crack it imho.

Plan B: Machine nice friendly porous (pre-oil impregnated) brass spigot bush to press fit inside nasty steel bush & continue overhaul? Assuming torque convertor shaft is several times the diameter of gbox front halfshaft? :(

Good luck.

GW

hi, converted a mate of mines from auto to manual and knew that this would be a problem before i even started the job, it took me about an hour of hitting, cutting, you name it...tried with grease and no luck at all so i persisted with cutting the bush...btw i had the car on the hoist. ended up using an air saw to cut it just before u cut right through the bush, then used a chisel to crack the bush where it was cut...after that it came out easy as.

probably not the safest method becuase if you cut too far you will damage the crank shaft..

good luck with it

Hi,

this is the reason why i havent used that method yet, i dont want to replace the crankshaft.

thanks for the reply.

cheers

hi, converted a mate of mines from auto to manual and knew that this would be a problem before i even started the job, it took me about an hour of hitting, cutting, you name it...tried with grease and no luck at all so i persisted with cutting the bush...btw i had the car on the hoist. ended up using an air saw to cut it just before u cut right through the bush, then used a chisel to crack the bush where it was cut...after that it came out easy as.

probably not the safest method becuase if you cut too far you will damage the crank shaft..

good luck with it

ahaha..tried a bush puller tonight and it still didnt bloody work..the groove was to thin for the puller to get into if that makes sense..

Just going to use the die grinder now and see how it goes...

Bloody steel bushes, this ones in there to stay :thumbsup:

The RB30 I bought had the auto spiggot as did a mates.

For both I used the grease method; I use a socket with a couple of small extension bars out of one of those $5 small socket sets from supercrap auto's. From memory the auto spiggot wasn't a perfect fit to the socket and a little grease did push out around it; but keep on hammering and it will come out. I use a small short handle sledge hammer. :P

The auto was definitely harder than the manual but keep at it and put some force in to it.

Sorry guys and gals aint been lookin in this section lately !

MZTRBO dont remember the diameter of the dowl. Just got one that was a little over size just started trimming it down so it was a very tight fit then used the grease method a big hammer. Speed is your friend here, if you can hit it hard and fast all the better. As 260tech said the hydrolic shock usually does the job.

YAY ...got it out...

Got a compressor and used a crystal head with a die grinder, ground it out and it ended popping out.

All the other methods were used and I had somebody helping me that has done many autos and they said this one was in there extremely tight?

None the less its out and the jobs almost finished.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From my bolts, standard M8 with 1.25mm thread pitch (M8x1.25mm).    Length is 19mm under the head and has a captive 18mm OD flat washer.   20mm length from a bolt shop is what you'll be able to get.   Make sure they're zinc plated.    If you're concerned about strength, grade 8.8 will be more than enough. Original PN is 01121-04971.  Now discontinued according to Amayama but that's because it's one of the parts that's been captured by the Heritage program, which explains the ridiculous price.   New PN is 01121-RHR20: https://nismodirect.com/nismo-heritage-bolt-pin-hinge-hood-bnr32-nissan-skyline-gt-r-01121-rhr20-01121-04971/ About AUD33 converted from Yen in the above link but that's just one example. Interesting that the hinge-to-body bolts are still available non-heritage.....PN 08116-8161G around $2 each (amayama).    Same thread but 16mm long.
    • Well, if that filter was impeding fluid flow, then it could have similar effects to faulty solenoids. The TCU will register a fault when it does something (ie, changes the state of a solenoid) and does not detect the required result. If there are other causes that can make the same lack of result, then they will be indistinguishable to the expected cause for which the TCU has a code.
    • Yellowjackets, red ones, blue ones (other than Splitfire) have all been demonstrated to be unreliable on turbo engines. That unreliability can be anything from outright failure (ie, 4 out of a set of 6 working out of the box) to just not being strong enough for the task, on a boosted engine. Not enough of us care about NA engines to know whether that unreliability is an issue for the undemanding needs of an NA RB20. I should think though that the DIS-008 should fit the 20. There's not really any reason for the head/coil mounting area to be any different on those 2 Neos. I wouldn't be buying Splitfires, or any other old tech coilpack, for a car in this day and age though. I would buy modern pencil coils and do what needs to be done to adapt them to the loom. That's relatively trivial these days, with numerous kits for fitting R35, or Audi, or Yaris/Corolla coils.
    • Keen to see how much work is needed to get an abandoned Skyline going. My R32 has been sitting idle for three years or so but finally got some time to get it going again. (Also lurking SAU and trying to hit 10 posts so I can start my own intro thread with pics)
    • Hi. Which coilpacks can i use in my engine? I looked at the Splitfire but the closest "match" i found was SP-DIS-008 but even that they do not show RB20DE NEO so iam not 100% sure. Or maybe different one which will 100% work? I saw many on ebay but they are some cheap "strange" ones. What about Yellow Jackets? Many thanks 🙂 
×
×
  • Create New...