Airbox Vs Pod Back To Back Testing

[TTT]

what turbo do you have that has a 4 inch opening on the front?

I'm about as anti pod as it comes.

however,

Lets take Andru's (r34NRG) car as an example.

he has just spend seriously large dollars to have an RB30/25 built for him.

forged this, forged that, multi thousand dollar turbo this etc etc.

if he has this sort of cash, then I assume he will have no problems forking out another $500 to have a carbon fibre air box created, with well designed COLD air intake piping, completely sealed from engine bay and best flowing pod filter he can sign a cheque for.

then pay to get it engineered.

fine.

Let's take for example, an R32 GTST.

Stock air box has it's intake on the bottom/front corner of the box. with a small section of piping that sits behind the passenger side headlight.

drop in a K&N or whatever brand you're loyal to, panel filter, and as is, it's more than enough for over 200rwkw (which the stock turbo is never going to make)

this is ALOT cheaper than getting the same brand pod filter, then creating or paying someone to make you a box for it, then CAI, then engineering for it.

end result is the same.

lets say in the example of ABU that URAS just posted above.

I will assume he has a FMIC so there is already a free hole under the air box.

All he has to do now is enlarge that hole, mark the bottom of the box to cut out the same size hole, then get same sized PVC piping and bends required from bunnings and the glue it uses.. put it all together and it will be as good as ANY aftermarket unobtanium materialed pod box you will buy.

and all it will cost him is like $20 if that for the PVC and glue.

AND, no engineering, no hassle from cops.

pop the bonnet, it's all standard.

track only cars... go for gold.

have no filter for that matter.

This is for about 95% of our community.

the other 5% do have ridiculously powered cars with mods worth more than 3 times the price of the car.

show cars with shiney everything and a factory black plastic air box will not be suitable... so fair enough.

I highly doubt that the 95% of us would EVER have a need for a pod filter and the other associated bits to make it legal and worthwile.

ABU/URAS Dyno results are a good indication.

but road driven cars behave differently than running from 2000rpm to 7000rpm over and over.

was the Dyno fan turned off in between runs like it would be in traffic? no.. and why would you.. that wasn't the intent of the test.

Also, you guys changed the intake pipe aswell as the airbox.

was it sucking closed?

$5 to do the "REV210" intake pipe mod instead of how many dollars for the silicon intake?

anyway.. enough rambling.

I can't help being a tightarse..

[Lithium]

what turbo do you have that has a 4 inch opening on the front?

if he has this sort of cash, then I assume he will have no problems forking out another $500 to have a carbon fibre air box created, with well designed COLD air intake piping, completely sealed from engine bay and best flowing pod filter he can sign a cheque for.

then pay to get it engineered.

I highly doubt that the 95% of us would EVER have a need for a pod filter and the other associated bits to make it legal and worthwile.

I have a Garrett GT3076R, I posted a pic earlier in the thread of the engine bay to give an idea of what I need to work around. I'm not 100% sure of the point of your rant, but basically I got given a 4" inlet POD filter for my birthday a few years ago after mates got sick of me procrastinating about doing something to my car and told "You have to use this now" My plan is to make a full shield around the pod filter, and make a decent cold air feed from where the stock intercooler was. In NZ there are no laws about what kind of air intake system you are or aren't allowed, so legality is of no concern to me.

[STATUS]

lets say in the example of ABU that URAS just posted above.

I will assume he has a FMIC so there is already a free hole under the air box.

All he has to do now is enlarge that hole, mark the bottom of the box to cut out the same size hole, then get same sized PVC piping and bends required from bunnings and the glue it uses.. put it all together and it will be as good as ANY aftermarket unobtanium materialed pod box you will buy.

and all it will cost him is like $20 if that for the PVC and glue.

AND, no engineering, no hassle from cops.

pop the bonnet, it's all standard.

No spare holes, as intercooler is return type and takes up alot of the spare room associated with cross flow types, but we did talk about removing ALOT of material from the base of the fiter box in the future. Taking the lid off the airbox solved all the issues.. and netted 10rwkw gains, it stopped the drop off after peak power and held it to the redline.

I highly doubt that the 95% of us would EVER have a need for a pod filter and the other associated bits to make it legal and worthwile.

ABU/URAS Dyno results are a good indication.

but road driven cars behave differently than running from 2000rpm to 7000rpm over and over.

was the Dyno fan turned off in between runs like it would be in traffic? no.. and why would you.. that wasn't the intent of the test.

i let the car cool and took it for a drive twice once after the dyno and once the day after dyno too, from stone cold too, made nice power on the first pass through 3rd, 4th then subsequent passes induced more and more knock, This translated into a real word problem not a dyno problem... in fact it was way worse on the road as the small inlet hole in the filter box was drawing more hot air than it did on the dyno.

Bottom line is i did back to back testing (3 days of dataloggit datalogging) years back on my GTR, twin blitz fiter kit versus std airbox and BMC filter (the best) and inlet temps on the airbox were colder until the car got up to temp then the skyrocketed, the overall flow increase in the pods FAR outweighed any detrimental "fairly tales" of increased inlet temps.... in FACT inlet temps dropped by a minimum of 5c and even more at hill thrashing speeds (70-130). The only time the pods were hotter was sitting in traffic for LONG periods of time, a quick break in traffic and they were normal again.

POINT being if you are more concerned with cops than performance, stay with a well modified box or better yet get a M"s filter kit with enclosed chamber etc.., if your after easy performance burn it.

[tridentt150v]

Don't know if this is totally relevant, but I brought a perspex CAI shield off ebay, around $70. Its the clear one so I could see what I was doing, it will be a template for me, I intend to replace the shield with a CF unit at some stage. Cut and shaped it, used the heat gun to bend it, etc and alls fine. I removed the std filter steel bracket and used a hole saw and put two 40mm holes in my gaurd at the bracket site, along with the air around the headlight and other holes on the side etc, plus the CAI box is not a complete seal around my IC and intake pipes, but I reckon that the greater % of my air is from outside the engine bay.

I recently had the car dynoed, and it made absolutely no difference to the knock level, power or the torque with the bonnet up or down. So this indicates to me that my CAI sheild is working, and that the 'leaks' I have around my pipes have little effect.

100mm GT3076 wg with a Z32, HKS pod with triple layer dry filter.

I reckon I would have trouble finding the room for a std filter setup, and cbf changing it anyway.