Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the new fuel system for the r33, extra sx fuel pump was required , as one would have been pas the limit!! getting there should be on the dyno soon ! couple of weeks.

post-17546-1200915793_thumb.jpg

post-17546-1200915922_thumb.jpg

dry sump resevoir still to go in back there this weekend with its oil lines.

Edited by giant
  • Replies 705
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

good to see its nothing over the top.

but, is that a standard battery?

haha no , it's just a sticker, its a special standard battery!!

the car has been sitting for so long i'm not sticking anything else in it until it's up and running again. it's been nearly two years i think!! :D

Sounds like my kind of place!

lol thats cool

Didnt you have a 5 series though?

Never had a 5 series... I'm not *that* old yet :blink:

Don't worry, the silly beemer will be left at home. I got something else to come out and play with :D

the r33 was going to be circuit only but have never had time to finish it off! so trying to finish it now and get it on the track and sell it. it will be a good car it has had alot of money spenton it and hardly turned a wheel it was 80 percent built before we got it.

yeah too many gtr's want to get back to just two!! one each (not that you can ever have too many but the wife does get cranky) :D

the engine bay as it stands tonight, still a bit to go,, trying to make room up the front for the dry sump pump, which means repositioning the thermo fans and a few other bits and pieces.

post-17546-1200919173_thumb.jpg

What do you use the R33 for Russ?

Or what do you intend to build it up for?

Seems you have a GTR for every situation. "Collect the whole set' eh?

didnt you have an evo? have ya still got it?

1. I don't have a mullet.

2. You're thinking too hard. It's a little more obvious than that... We're on SAU after-all :D

Total = 5.8L TT

M3 = 3.2L

Difference = ?

hehe! it will be good to see either way!

It's nothing special, just an R32 track bitch that I'll have fun with and spend way too much money on :blink:

Congrats on your results in Tsukuba btw... Definitely did Australia proud :D

Can't wait to see your beast in the flesh... Those YouTube videos are like teaser porn. All the action, but no money shot :cool:

1. I don't have a mullet.

2. You're thinking too hard. It's a little more obvious than that... We're on SAU after-all :blink:

Total = 5.8L TT

M3 = 3.2L

Difference = ?

Yeah i know it would be obvious

Have you got pics of it? :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jap premium will be 100 RON. You should use 98.
    • The exhaust gases are at their highest temperature as they leave the exhaust port and enter the manifold. They cool as they flow through the manifold because they transfer heat to the manifold and the manifold loses heat to the surrounding environment. Thus, inevitably, the exhaust gases are cooler as they enter the turbo compared to when they entered the exhaust manifold. So, yes, the exhaust manifold can easily get as hot as the turbine housing. Having said that, you will generally see the highest temperatures where the exhaust gases have to slow down or they are concentrated into one area - which is usually the collector on the manifold and in the turbine housing, because the gases slam into the metal at those places, increasing the convective heat transfer coefficient and transferring even more heat to the metal than they might just flowing past elsewhere. Exhaust manifold heat shields are a good idea - certainly for the stock manifold they are there from the factory. People seldom have anything like that on a tubular manifold because they are hard to achieve. Some might wrap a tube manifold with fibreglass tape - but this has a reputation of leading to cracked welds. The best case is generally to put ceramic coating onto the manifold to prevent it getting as hot (internal coating) and radiating/convecting heat into the bay (external coating). All the real heat from a turbo comes from the exhaust side. The gases entering are at ~800-900°C and the steel/iron gets nearly that hot. The compressor side is only going to heat the charge air up to <<200°C (typically not much more than 100°C). So that's nothing, by comparison. The compressor is not a significant source of engine bay heat.
    • Late to the party, specifically joined this forum as I just bought one of these and this thread has been a gold mine of info. If the OP is still around, mind if I ask what gas you been putting in yours? Mine has a Japanese sticker in the cap saying premium but it seems to get way worse mileage on premium (95) than 91. I always thought it was meant to be the other way round🤷 I do think Nissans claimed "6l/100km" is a bit fantastical 😂
    • Does exhaust manifold get hot as turno exhuast side? I have a turbo cover to managr heat in the engine bay but  nothing is covering the exhaust manifold before turbo   i know as turbo does compress air, the temp does go up however does that mean exhaust manifold would be as hot?
    • It's excellent but I'm still breaking it in so I'm not 100% sure where it'll end up. I would say it's about 15% heavier than stock and the smoothness of the slip zone is quite progressive but you need to be a little patient compared to stock or it'll bite hard and stall. Stock I got away with absolutely horrid clutch control. Like I said before I couldn't even tell where the clutch would grab when it was stock so releasing way too quickly without enough revs it would just slip and the revs would drop lower than ideal but that would be the end of it. Currently there's a bit of a nasty clutch judder if I don't apply enough revs + find the exact wrong point of the slip point in the clutch pedal but it feels like it's slowly resolving as I drive it more. I would not recommend the competition clutch unless you really need the extra clamp force. I think this clutch combined with the Nismo operating cylinder is going to be exactly what I want. Enough bite that you need to remember the release point to avoid stalling or rough shifts, but progressive enough that it's not hard to drive by any means and not heavy at all. I tried a "super single" clutch on my friend's 997.2 Turbo 6MT and that was absolutely horrid. It runs an electrohydraulic power steering pump for the clutch power boost so there's zero feedback in the clutch pedal and there was a horrific clutch shudder well after break-in due to the lack of marcel springs or hub springs in the friction disk. It felt like the slip zone was the thickness of a single toe twitch as well so it was almost impossible to avoid stalling it unless you gave it a ton of revs and just dumped the clutch instead of trying to be smooth with it. I was terrified of pulling out in front of traffic. I have also tried some kind of "super single" on an EK9 and that makes this twin plate Coppermix look like a stock clutch. Releasing the clutch pedal even slightly too quickly feels like you're getting rear-ended. The pedal is extremely heavy as well and there's no vacuum assist like the GTR.
×
×
  • Create New...