Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

WD40 around the bolt... leave it for a minute, some hopefully will seep in.

Have you people heard of socket sets?? sheech.. that will be the easiest way to get it off.. even if the nut is stripped a fair amount, a socket will get it off most likely

May be better on a warmer day with the engine warm.. sump will expand slightly, making it easier to get out.

predator,

i thought u would want to do it when it was cold, so the bolt shrinks. not expands.

also i will try these methods of "pulling" the bolt off, however apparently (according to my dogdy mechanic) there is a plate behind the hole of the sump (for extra strength) and the plate might be spinning along with the plug and not just the plug itself. if that makes sense? That is why he is charging me 280 to get it fixed. cause he reckons he needs to take the sump off and re-weld these points for strength. does this make sense anyone?

ah a different problem to what I had, I couldn't get the bolt to turn, but your sump plug keeps turning... is that right?

also I found the bolt was an inbetween size, couldn't find a socket that fitted tightly, and by the look of it others had the same problem. but I might put a crush washer(non flat washer to prevent overtightening) on it again as they are only about $2.50 from nissan.

also I found the bolt was an inbetween size, couldn't find a socket that fitted tightly, and by the look of it others had the same problem

Well unless u are running some sort of weird aftermarket sump plug, its just standard! you're not using an imperial socket are you??

I believe its 12mm or 14mm but that is just from memory. There is nothing weird about it.

Try a longer spanner or extender to increase leverage..

yeah pretty much. 1stly the sump plug wouldn't loosen, then with my mates big biceps, he ended up loosing it up. its loose but not enought to take it off. Furthermore u cant tighten back up either. it just keeps on spinning. u can just fit a small screwdriver head between the head of the bolt and the sump.

any other suggestions?

The sump plug screws into a captive nut spot welded to the sump. If the plug turns both ways and does not come on or off, the nut or spot weld have broken or is stripped.Sorry sump off to fix if the nut is loose or you might be able to drill out and tap oversize if the nut is stripped.Get the plug out any way you can ( I have used a large screwdriver under the head of the plug while turning before) and then assess damage.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • yeah i agree paint match stops it from standing out so much, oh that's actually really good to know i was wondering if it would help with air flow now actually having an outlet in the bonnet. Will have to focus on ducting into and out of the radiator now to make the most of it.
    • I would paint match the whole thing to avoid unwanted attention  I had a similar bonnet, paint matched, on my old R33 GTST, but mine was a fibreglass jobbie made by Blitz in QLD, they work extremely well for radiator efficiency and under bonnet temps
    • Does anyone run this kit with factory plenum? Does the adapter and bosch tb fit under factory strut brace? I wanted to get this setup before going forward facing manifold. Thanks
    • small update time, after always wanting a "cool" looking bonnet for my car and always struggling to find one for the series 2 that i liked and wasn't an insane amount of money. Saw one i liked on RHDjapan from D-speed in Japan the price was very good for a carbon bonnet so good infact i was a little unsure how much i trusted it, decided to bite the bullet and with the help of jesse streeter in not long at all it was at my door. Once it was delivered i ran in from work and quickly unboxed it and to my surprise the quality was actually pretty good i quickly removed the old bonnet and placed on the new one to test it out and even the fitment wasnt too bad at all. Then decided to paint the little grille in the bonnet black to stop it sticking out so much.   I decided to not mess around with the hood latch and just install some aero catch hood pins, having never installed them before did some YouTube university classes and i was good to go. fair to say it is not a fun job at all from making brackets so the pins sit nicely and actually cutting through the bonnet but also being very scared of cutting the holes too big it took wayyyy longer than i would like to admit but finally got it there. Then it was time for a quick test drive to ensure the latches actually worked and thankfully the bonnet looked very stable. I still think paint matching the bonnet and leaving just the part that sticks up as carbon would help make it all look alot neater as im not sure how i feel about all that carbon on a very fridge white car but will leave it as is and see how i feel with time.  
    • I think it's bound to happen, you finally get it all perfect, and bam, something will happen. I took a while to get a Commodore rear quarter repaired where a P Plater clipped it. Two days after getting it back, Sarah wiped it out on a concrete pillar in an underground car park... This is why I take forever to repair them, it stretches how long until it gets bent again... 😛
×
×
  • Create New...