Jump to content
SAU Community

Harmonic Balancer Problem

Fry_33

By Fry_33,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Fry_33 Proficient

Fry_33

Posted
Posted

Well my Gates Racing Timing Belt was making some noise so I figure I just need to retension it.

I have taken out the clutch fan, radiator, CAS and the top timing cover.

I noticed that my Arospeed adjustable cam gear was 2deg advanced and not retarded but then realised that the marks on it must be the wrong way around sothat was a big relief.

I have loosened the bolt for the harmonic balancer which was fairly easy.

The problem I have come accross is that I bought a harmonic balancer puller and got ready to remove the harmonic balancer.

I put the M6 bolts in the top hole and that is fine. I put the other M6 bolt in the lower hole on the harmonic balancer and it gets to a point and doesn't tighten up any more. The damn thing has been stripped of thread!

I am thinking my only option is to remove the current harmonic balancer with the pullers that grab the outside of the pulley.

I would then get a replacement harmonic balancer and install this.

Any thoughts or suggestions people?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187246-harmonic-balancer-problem/
Share on other sites
Fry_33 Proficient

Fry_33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
could use some locktight to try to get it out... their is some sort of stronger stuff but i cant remember what it's called.... just make sure u let it set before u start to pull it off...

I was just thinking about something like that.. wasn't sure if it would be strong enough, might give it a try.

The M6 bolts don't actually go in very far do they. Just out of curiosity, do the bolts bottom out or does the threaded hole go right through the balancer?

Later to put the harmonic balancer back on I just need to put the big washer and bolt in and tighten it up right?

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted
If it doesn't take too much force you can usually remove the balancer with a 2 or 3 jaw puller without any damage.

I have many times, still no issues

just dont go all out on the bolt, watch for flex to see if there is something holding the HB on, and get some dry lube for when you put it back on so its not hard for the next time you remove it.

Fry_33 Proficient

Fry_33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the replies guys.

It is all back together and still noisy which really is really annoying. I won't have a chance to try it again for another fortnight which sucks.

I assume that I use a 3 leg puller (or similar) and grab the back solid edges as in the pic.

What dry lube is best for this application?

post-13456-1191226084_thumb.jpg

Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted

something like

http://www.kpg-industrial.com/products/dry_graphite_lube/

not too sure of ones available in AUS since i have used some that i found in the shed thats probably as old as me :D

oh and i just use the first large lip, not the rear lip you have pictured... just be careful to watch for any flexing (havent seen it on mine but i always watch and make sure)

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

yes be careful. the guy that removed my balancer last to do timing belt change took a few chips out of the edge of the pulley. then when he re-fitted it he didn't do the bolt up tight enough and it slowly came loose which meant the balancer could move around a bit which meant it hammered the keyway. not nice. so the moral is be careful taking it off and do it up as tight as is humanly possible. then tighten some more.

Godzilla32 Veteran

Godzilla32

Posted
Posted

Guess thats why they say 450ft/lb... Insane isnt it.. I remember last time i got it undone with a breaker bar and a whole big trollet jack pipe handle (1.5 metres) I held it hard left then belted the bar with a sledge hammer. It finally undid and i did it back up the same way. A little too tight perhaps as it took a 3/4in rattle gun with the compressor fully pumped (workshop compressor) to finally get it undone! Sorry to change the subject, just thought it was funny :P

Fry_33 Proficient

Fry_33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I can't remember where I saw it, could have been the R33 manual, it said to put a bit of loctite on the bolt thread. If I did this and I needed to get it off again it would be quite a feat I imagine. Is this crazy talk?

QWK32 Veteran

QWK32

Posted
Posted
I can't remember where I saw it, could have been the R33 manual, it said to put a bit of loctite on the bolt thread. If I did this and I needed to get it off again it would be quite a feat I imagine. Is this crazy talk?

depends on when you took it back off. if you just did it and forgot something and had to take it off again you'll be right. just check up on how much loctite to use, too much and you will have a mission on your hands.

Jmaac Proficient

Jmaac

Posted
Posted

Just squeeze two screwdrivers in behind the pulley and lever it off the block (not the sump), but wiggle it, one side and then the other - do this for 1-2hrs and you'll get any balancer off :woot:

The only way I ever managed to get that stupid bolt out, was to pull out the startermotor and jam a great big dirty screwdriver into the flywheel, oh and use an industrial strength electric impact gun that once sheared my diff bolts off :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sean'O
      3D printing fun

      By Sean'O · Posted

      Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) clogged cat

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Milkmun
      NC MX5

      By Milkmun · Posted

      Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • Milkmun
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Milkmun · Posted

      255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • Kinkstaah
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...