Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK peoples,

I'm looking at getting a new dump pipe for my wife's S1 RS4, so I can make a new 2.5" exhaust for it, in the hope of better fuel economy(and a better exhaust note!) And I'm going with 2.5" because it's stock boost, have some 2.5" mufflers handy, and I have plenty of it floating around in my garage

I've tried to follow bits of other threads that have wandered on and around what I'm trying to find, but can't really make much sense of it. Seeing as I'm so stupid, can people list where they have sourced their dump pipes from and how much (roughly) they were, and if you had any issues with them.

Thanks in advance, Greg.

P.S. It's raining so I'm not going out to look now but do the Stag's have any kind of sensor's in the cats that the ECU requires, or can I remove it altogether (or perform taxidermy on the cat instead?).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187263-dump-pipes/
Share on other sites

got my dump pipe of ebay, am performance i think, 280 cost but its for a s2 so minor grinding to make it seal to turbo properly. also got a metal cat and it had no sensor attacment so the shop just tuked it up next to a heat cover and no troubles

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187263-dump-pipes/#findComment-3380697
Share on other sites

i bought the just jap dump and front pipe - same as a r33. It is good quality stainless and cost about $250 i think

Just Jap have a few different ones available - I bought one of their own JJR ones (to suit an R33) and it wouldn't fit my s1, maybe because mine has been converted to manual and the pipe would have rubbed/hit on the body where there looks to be another point to mount the gearbox. The R34 X-Force one they sell looks to be a better fit, as it has a kink in it which looks roughly where the mount is on my car. I returned the other one, and haven't yet bought the R34 X-Force one to fit up.

Here's the JJR one for the R33:

jjrsplitdumprb.jpg

Here's the X-Force one for the R34 (see how it kinks near the end?):

xfer34frontdumpst.jpg

If/when i do upgrade my standard one, I might take it off the car and take it down there so I KNOW that the R34 X-Force one is a closer fit than than the JJR one I returned...

Oh, and the guys at Unique Autosports told me that they're getting better results (both response and power) with the non-turbulence X-Force style than the JJR split style ones.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187263-dump-pipes/#findComment-3380772
Share on other sites

I have seen a short dump pipe for a R33 GTSt at a local speed shop down here in Hobart for about the $150 mark, and that has a splitter built into it.

Personally, for me, a short one is better because it gives me more freedom with my design of the exhaust (I'm a welder who fabricates exhausts from scratch for fun!), so I shouldn't have the firewall clearence issues you guys seem to be having.

I'll try and get some pics of the dump pipe I'm looking at.

And the one I'm looking at is polished. How can I make it black so it don't stand out? I was thinking just a light sanding and some VHT heat proof paint.

Feel free to keep the suggestions coming!

Cheers, Greg.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187263-dump-pipes/#findComment-3380794
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I ❤️ Matty I would like to thank Matty for going out his way in securing me a OEM NC detachable hard top for the NC Matty, your worth your weight in gold, and I cannot say how much I really appreciate your outstanding help I'll get it colour matched once I pick it up sometime in Dec-Jan 😁  
    • We have some genuine Japanese legally decommissioned car number plates now in stock 🙂 Add some legitimately obtained JDM style to your Skyline or other Japanese model, or simply as a garage/man cave decoration! About the 40mm hole: The Ministry of Land, Infrastructure & Transport in Japan recognised the popularity of keeping decommissioned plates among car enthusiasts and came up with a method to "destroy" (or render them unusable for street use) while still retaining their collectable/usable value for display etc.  We have 40mm hole covers available to cover the hole nicely with a Sakura motif, which are also available in white in (very!) limited quantities, however they frequently sell out. Please let me know if you're wanting one or more of these and I'll check availability. The Sakura motif covers are more common. https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-set-su-7515 https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-decommissioned-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-set https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/genuine-japanese-vehicle-number-plate-400mm-hole-cover *Please note that we can't obtain particular number or area name (eg: "Gunma 500 Fu ・86") if requested. All plates are provided as they become available after decommissioning. 
    • Ah, fair enough. For the IAT, I'm using a legit GM sensor that was used on the car prior to my current build. I'll get another wideband and IAT ordered and follow up when they show up. Thanks for the help.
    • You shouldn't need to massively fatten up the mixtures for cold conditions. For one thing - 0°C is not that cold. For another, the Haltech will be using the IAT sensor to tell it how dense the air air, and calculate the correct amount of fuelling. Then the cold start enrichment is added as a % on top of that, so it should scale with the main fuelling. You might also doubt the IAT sensor at this time. You're not using one from an RB26 are you? Using a nice Bosch sensor or similar? Happens. Some wideband units take great pleasure in killing their sensors. Put another wideband in the tailpipe and compare. Or just swap the sensor to a brand new one and see.
    • Oh, my misunderstand. When the car was running, it sounded ok, but if I gave it any gas it wanted to die but caught itself afterwards. It's very different from how it was a couple months ago when it was warmer outside. The logs show that the AFRs are better during, what I assume, is warmup enrichment. Because it's cold, and air is more dense, should I work on the enrichment bit?
×
×
  • Create New...