Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just back from the tuners its like a new car just got a gt3076r installed running 16psi on low boost setting and 21psi on high boost settings. any one tell me what this dyno sheet is telling me. looks like at the top end its letting go. could this be cams?

i have all the supporting mods.

cheers

post-32900-1191075049_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187275-just-got-r33-from-tuners/
Share on other sites

PS, i have no idea how or why Cams would give you jumpy power like that.

I really doubt that's what it is, and the power level (250) isn't anything that Cams would have a problem with.

I guess what i'm saying is that Cams could handle 2000rwkws as long as the engine and turbo were up to it.

The only reason you would change Cams is to improve power gains across the rev range etc....

Nothing wrong with standard though if you're punching more air in.

Two distinct dips but not shaky looking graph line.

I'd suspect 1-2 degrees of timing taken out to address knock. A look at your ignition map will soon tell. :)

The over 4000rpm results looks good, but what do you think about things under that engine speed? Looks a bit lazy to come on for you. This spec should be generally similar to The Mafia, and he's pulling 300kW out of 18psi + a much more linear looking curve throughout the range with the assistance of water/meth.

Edited by Dale FZ1
I'd suspect 1-2 degrees of timing taken out to address knock. A look at your ignition map will soon tell. :P
whats your timing degrees tuned at? if you take out 1 - 2 degrees timing, you will get slightly better mid range power but less peak power..

Previous posts by Murat, and the comment about "all supporting mods" indicates he has a PFC.

I'm suggesting it's in the spark mapping ie adjusting one or two specific cells in the map, not the base timing being adjusted by a degree or two :)

Could be wrong but that's where I'd look if there is a concern/query about the shape of the graph

Edited by Dale FZ1
whats your timing degrees tuned at? if you take out 1 - 2 degrees timing, you will get slightly better mid range power but less peak power..

Explain to me how removing timing is going to improve his midrange???

Id really like to know!

It looks like the exhaust housing may be to small If its not retard to much in the topend.

What sort of timing is it running through the top?? and like others have suggested what exhaust housing are you using??

core number is 700382-5012

compressor housing is .60A/R

turbine housing is .82A/R internal wastegate

if that helps is there any one i can take the car too give me a hand with the problem?

money is no problem.

dude, thats the same turbo as me. (GT3037) I make 15psi by 3900rpm in second gear.

The bigger rear must give it a bit more lag hey?

Also, can you list your supporting mods?

I make just over 300rwkw at 18psi on this turbo.

dude, thats the same turbo as me. (GT3037) I make 15psi by 3900rpm in second gear.

The bigger rear must give it a bit more lag hey?

Also, can you list your supporting mods?

I make just over 300rwkw at 18psi on this turbo.

Engine management - PFC

Boost ran - 18psi

Turbo - Garrett GT3076r

Nismo 740cc injectors

Bosch 040 pump

Gready EBC Profec II

Z32 80mm Air Flow Meter

Hybrid Intercooler

3inch Exhaust turbo back

Splitfire Coil Packs

Stock Internals

no head work

Fuel pump

its not that bad i get about 15psi by 3800rpm its depends on the engine load at the time 5th gear its full boost by 3500

thats strange, as I have almost the same setup, but with a smaller turbo rear.

That wavey line looks dodgey. Are the AFR's staying safe while it is doing that? Is the fuel pump healthy? You'll need to test your pressures.

thats strange, as I have almost the same setup, but with a smaller turbo rear.

That wavey line looks dodgey. Are the AFR's staying safe while it is doing that? Is the fuel pump healthy? You'll need to test your pressures.

AFR are safe its is running rich because after about an hour of driving the back bumper has a light black color, fuel pump was installed about 3 months ago brand new, what i will check is the cat see if it is choking and do a pressure test, i know i should be getting abit more becuase i have read your 300kw advantage this is what i have built my car from. so im abit shocked.

anything else you reckon i can check out ?

i have notice one more thing with the car the idle is very high sits at about 900 to 1000 rpm, i tried to reset it to a lower figure but it still sits up at 900 to 1000 rpm could this be a connected problem?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No worries, everything worked out in the end. I just wanted to make the point that it doesn't matter where it comes from (I.E Australia), it can be broken or improperly built. I would still purchase from these companies in the future. B2R - Not certain how that finished, this was on a car I wired a few things and street tuned. I know the owner ended up shipping the motor back to Australia for investigation. Hopefully some of it is covered under warranty.  Turbosmart - I always pressure test everything that goes on my car. It's a habit from my career in oil and gas. I run two 40mm's and both had major leaks from the actuator to exhaust portion through the shaft. I returned both, they shipped me back two and one was leaking and the other had a 38mm top (40mm gate with 38mm actuator cap, no idea how that happens). Eventually after a lot of back and forth I found myself with two non-leaking gates. I believe this happens a lot more then people would like to believe but you would never know if you don't pressure test them prior to installation. Crank Motorsport - Issued a full refund and let me keep the seat rails. I turned them into scrap metal for other projects. GKTech - Shipped me out a replacement and asked that I modify it as per my idea and that they would do the same for a future revision. ATP - Can just needed a large shim to bolt up properly.  Haltech - They started an actual proper Beta channel for firmware's a few months back and stopped using the general public for testing. I'm now much happier.  Speedtek - f**k Speedtek. I would love to watch them burn.     
    • I've got a Turbosmart wastegate, ATP catch can, many GK Tech parts and Haltech everything. Everything's been perfect, sorry to hear your experience wasn't the same
    • The only high-power RB I've personally seen go pop after running for all of an hour on a dyno was built by B2R, while being remotely tuned by B2R. The only wastegates I've ever had leak like a sieve, return, still leak, return and get shipped back the wrong ones were from Turbosmart. The only final drive that I've ever purchased that were unusable, twice... were from Speedtek. The only seat mounts that I've ever purchased that placed the seats in the door frame were from Crank Motorsport. The only poorly designed parts that I had the manufacturer confirm should have been designed as per what I mentioned were from GKTech. The only ECU I've had firmware updates consistently break things are Haltech. The only catch can I've purchased that didn't fit in its advertised spot was from ATP. So forth and so on... Moral of the story, doesn't matter where it's from. Do your research beforehand and stick with products and companies you've trusted in the past.    @joshuaho96 If you want it done right, do it yourself.
    • Something coarse-ish. 180 is good.
    • I was surprised to see all the quick Jack models at the same prices on there. But yeah, grabbing one at 20% off would be great.
×
×
  • Create New...