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1997 Nissan Skyline GTST

124,xxx kms

4 door, series 2 with series 1 tail end

5 speed manual sedan

Gunmetal purple

3" turbo back exhaust with cannon and tip

Apexi pen turbo timer

GReddy boost gauge

Eyelids (not shown in pics, but have been painted same colour as car)

Hatachi brake pads (Genuines)

Currently running 7-8psi

Cheap insurance!

The car is pretty much stock. Runs perfect and is in very good condition. No tears in seats, or wearing in interior. IMMACULATE CONDITION!

Regularly serviced by mechanic, can try get a log book.

Reason for sale, looking at buying mates 200sx

Price is set at $17,500 and open to offers.

Please PM me or call: 0433 497 473, My name is Nick

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Good luck with teh sale. I have had my mint R33 S2 Sedan with 85000kms on the clock, FMIC brand new coilovers and boost controller on the market since late august and my price is down to $16k flat. Looks Great though.

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    • It is an absolute lottery. They can and have died at stock boost with low usage at all. The turbos are now anywhere up to 36 years old!
    • Huh, wonder why it blew then. I never really beat on the car THAT hard lol I dailyed it and the turbo blew after 6 months
    • That's odd, it works fine here. Try loading it on a different device or browser? It's Jack Phillips JDM, a Skyline wrecker in Victoria. Not the cheapest, but I have found them helpful to find obscure parts in AU. https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php
    • Yeah. I second all of the above. The only way to see that sort of voltage is if something is generating it as a side effect of being f**ked up. The other thing you could do would be to put a load onto that 30V terminal, something like a brakelamp globe. See if it pulls the voltage away comepletely or if some or all of it stays there while loaded. Will give you something of an idea about how much danger it could cause.
    • I would say, you've got one hell of an underlying issue there. You're saying, coils were fully unplugged, and the fuse to that circuit was unplugged, and you measured 30v? Either something is giving you some WILD EMI, and that's an induced voltage, OR something is managing to backfeed, AND that something has problems. It could be something like the ECU if it takes power from there, and also gets power from another source IF there's an internal issue in the ECU. The way to check would be pull that fuse, unplug the coils, and then probe the ECU pins. However it could be something else doing it. Additionally, if it is something wired in, and that something is pulsing, IE a PWM circuit and it's an inductive load and doesnt have proper flyback protection, that would also do it. A possibility would be if you have something like a PWM fuel pump, it might be giving flyback voltages (dangerous to stuff!). I'd put the circuit back into its "broken" state, confirm the weird voltage is back, and then one by one unplug devices until that voltage disappears. That's a quick way to find an associated device. Otherwise I'd need to look at the wiring diagrams, and then understand any electrical mods done.   But you really should not be seeing the above issue, and really, it's indicating something is failing, and possibly why the fuse blew to begin with.
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