Jump to content
SAU Community

Engine Cutting Out?

Botters

By Botters,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Botters Enthusiast

Botters

Posted
Posted

Ive only had my 97 R33 Gtst for about a year now and hasnt really been driven alot and never really that hard.

Recently i have been having problems with the engine cutting out while just crusing. This problem normally happens within the first half an hour of driving. I may just be crusing along at around 80-100kph and the engine will loose all power. So the car is still moving just slowing down because there is no engine power, I push down on the accelerator and nothing happens, sometimes if i give it a little pump on the accelerator the engine will start again. Normally when it happens i pull over. It it doesnt start again i just slow to a complete stop and try starting it again. It normally starts again after a little while. So i just let it idle for a bit.

I found a little kink in the hose that goes to my Greedy profec BII boost controller. Since i fixed that it hasnt the car hasnt played up. But sometimes it maybe a week or 2 inbetween times it f**ks up on me.

The car has never really felt that powerful either, sounds like its running fine but im not a mechanic just a backyard one. Always is backfireing and spluttering around

So if anyone has had similar problems or any advice, i need it now before i spend some money on an expert for maybe a small problem like a fuel filter which is next on my agenda to change.

Mods. - Pod, EBC, FMIC, 3"Cat Back

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187482-engine-cutting-out/
Share on other sites
Amec Experienced

Amec

Posted
Posted
How serious is this problem? Is it an easy fix (DIY?) And what exactly is a Power Transistor Unit?

the power transistor unit provides spark for your coil packs.

its an easy job to replace and a 2nd hand unit can be picked up cheaply, but they are prone to failure. better off getting a new series 2 unit, try nissan. but make sure the ptu is the problem first by swapping it with another one that someone might kindly lend you to see if it fixes the problem.

Botters Enthusiast

Botters

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Since i have no idea about the PTU, where abouts is it located (R33 Series II GTSt)? Is there anyways to test if this actually is the problem ie. Visual Inspection, Testing Resistances or Continuity with Multimeter. Is it possible to clean it or any way of restoring/fixing the original one?

Its just hard to borrow someone elses since the fault may only occur once a week or whenever its pretty random. Ive seen one on ebay for $200, but still dont recognise this component from under the hood. Help would be much apreciated.

Has anyone else had faults with there PTU or Similar faults to this. Would changing the PTU also fix a real bad flat spot between 4-5k?

Sorry all i want is some answers before spending $200 or so on a PTU that i may not actually even need.

Cheers

200sxRb20 Apprentice

200sxRb20

Posted
Posted
Since i have no idea about the PTU, where abouts is it located (R33 Series II GTSt)? Is there anyways to test if this actually is the problem ie. Visual Inspection, Testing Resistances or Continuity with Multimeter. Is it possible to clean it or any way of restoring/fixing the original one?

Its just hard to borrow someone elses since the fault may only occur once a week or whenever its pretty random. Ive seen one on ebay for $200, but still dont recognise this component from under the hood. Help would be much apreciated.

Has anyone else had faults with there PTU or Similar faults to this. Would changing the PTU also fix a real bad flat spot between 4-5k?

Sorry all i want is some answers before spending $200 or so on a PTU that i may not actually even need.

Cheers

having some simular issues. let me know how it turns out for you

r32woohoo Rising Star

r32woohoo

Posted
Posted

Sounds more like a problem with the air flow meter

Mine did the same thing on the way to get petrol one night. started up again fine and managed to make it home.

The next day it started and died after a min or so. Borrowed a replacement and it ran fine.

a dying AFM could cause the misfire too if its not reading right.

Your one could just have a loose connection, theres a DIY thread to fix them. In my case it wasnt repairable.

or it could just need a good clean.

Check your spark plugs and your intercooler piping for any leaks too

200sxRb20 Apprentice

200sxRb20

Posted
Posted
Sounds more like a problem with the air flow meter

Mine did the same thing on the way to get petrol one night. started up again fine and managed to make it home.

The next day it started and died after a min or so. Borrowed a replacement and it ran fine.

a dying AFM could cause the misfire too if its not reading right.

Your one could just have a loose connection, theres a DIY thread to fix them. In my case it wasnt repairable.

or it could just need a good clean.

Check your spark plugs and your intercooler piping for any leaks too

i took a look at the diy thread you mentioned and opened up my maf and noticed that almost none of my connectors were touching properly. so Im assuming this was my issue so maybe it will be yours as well.

200sxRb20 Apprentice

200sxRb20

Posted
Posted

i plan on replacing mine with a z32 soon, but not until i run put on all the parts ive collected to need it. Right now i am still on stock injectors/turbo so I dont think I need the z32 maf just yet but once again thanks for pointing out that DIY I will post up if thats the issue.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • kevboost7
      Magnetic Drain Plug Snapped in Half

      By kevboost7 · Posted

      Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • MBS206
      New fix for low tyre pressure from bmw

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • sunsetR33
      Anyone know this frontpipe?

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • dbm7
      New fix for low tyre pressure from bmw

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • joshuaho96
      Anyone know this frontpipe?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
×
×
  • Create New...