Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok well had my car fully done with the veilside kit and chrome rims and all the other show stuff and turned alot of heads. But due to me getting side swipped earlier this year it gave me the oportunity to give it a whole new look and change it up a bit. So it started about june this year, took it down to the boys at the panel shop fully strip it down to nothing and start the new body work, role the rear guards, shave the aerial, side indicators and boot, fit m3 mirrors, customize the combat R rear bar, Drift wing, Bomex Sides, Do-Luck GTR front, GTR aluminium bonnet, Widen front guards, custom 2 tone paint with diamondesque pearl and a couple of other suttle things that'll be my secret. Then straight from the panel shop down to my mates tyre show for some AXIS Hiro rims to be fitted, then drive it for 1 week and then straight of to have the engine removed and fully rebuilt, which is were it is now. From there it'll be going to get the interior and stereo done.

So let me know what you think....

post-9866-1191294520_thumb.jpg

post-9866-1191294557_thumb.jpg

post-9866-1191294569_thumb.jpg

post-9866-1191294576_thumb.jpg

post-9866-1191294591_thumb.jpg

Edited by redevil
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187560-the-new-look/
Share on other sites

yeah engines at the engineers with debate going whether to go 25 bottom end or 30..... but yeah working it out with him wats goin to be the best package probs going to go the 25 bottom due to his racing experience.....

now trying to work out how to design my dash with the guages and stuff, and also wat to get airbrushed on it :S

also is there a difference between series 1 and 2 when it comes to tomei poncams

Edited by redevil
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187560-the-new-look/#findComment-3385554
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...