R33 Electrical Questions

[_Sawyer_]

If someone has time could you please answer me these three questions

1) Ive installed a series 2 front bar with driving lights to a series 1 car. There is a blue (possibly with a yellow line) wire that is comming from the body to connect to the lights but there is no voltage on it what ever I do. The series 1 bar dosent come standard with driving lights so i think thats the problem so... how can I get a voltage going through these wires?

2) my low beams turn off when my high beams are turned on. Is it likley to be a fuse or the light switch stalk itself?

3) the break light in my standard spoiler isnt working. is there a fuse or something to check before i go pulling it off to try and find the problem?

thanks in advance for any help.

Cheers

Paul

[Baconer]

2) Its the factory setting for R33's. Theres a tutorial somewhere on how to make the low beams stay on when high beams are switched on but otherwise it is completly normal

[Craved]

1) you will require to wire up a power feed, relays and a switch in teh cabin in order to get your new driving lights to work.. have seen kits at supercheap for this..

2) as per baconer's post

3) the std spoiler is connected via a push in plug located next to the drivers side brake light assembly. there is no independant fuse for this light.

check for 12v feed to this plug with the brake lights on, if its there, then more than all the sets of LED banks in the light are broken.

[RANDY]

You can unscrew the LED part from the wing without removing the wing from the boot. You can then unplug and pull the LED part out and test 12v directly to it. No light = dead LED array.

From there, the plastic didn't look like it was designed to be serviceable inside. You could seperate it all and then have an electronics guy try to fix the PCB.... or you can do what I did and look for a broken standard wing with a working LED strip in it. (or just the strip if anyone will sell it to you)

[Jmaac]

Ive been looking for a seperate LED for 6 months but no one will part with it, getting the whole spoiler/led assembly is probably cheaper and easier off ebay. You can get similar LED's from Autobahn but theyre crap, the LED colours dont match, and only fit with double sided tape. Try and pull it apart and replace the LED's. Craved is right, if she aint working and your breaklights are, then theres a break in the led bank. Let us know if you can get it to pieces, im lazy

[_Sawyer_]

Thanks for all the feed back ppls,

1) Im going to see if i can get a wiring diagram from nissan to see if there is some way to fire up the existing wires. surely there is a way.

2) thats exactly what I thought, now I have to convince the bloke doing the RWC on my car that this is the case.

3) To get the led pannel out I had to remove the spoiler, not happy. the screws holding in on were so god damn tight, i could bearly get them off with an impact screwdriver. Any way I wacked it in the oven for about 10 mins to soften up the glue and managed to get it apart. I found that moisture had gotten in it, (which must be a common problem) and blew a resistor and in turn one of the leds. Its all repaired now and goin back on the car so I managed to save myself some money.

[Jmaac]

What temp and how long roughly to get the glue prisable? Leds all good now? For your driving lights grab and relay and just run the feed from the fusebox

[_Sawyer_]

What temp and how long roughly to get the glue prisable? Leds all good now? For your driving lights grab and relay and just run the feed from the fusebox

About 5-10 minutes on 170 degrees, that will do it. everything is sweet with it

I read recently that the series 2 r33 came out with a switch on the indicator storke to run the driving lights, is this the case? if so i think that might be the missing link as to what runs the blue with yellow strip wire for the driving lights.

[Jmaac]

Cool, Ill check after work if its there. Have you had a look at a wiring diagram for that wire?