Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 812
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

f**k this thing is loud on the inside.

don't know how happy stu was with it....but I was lucky enough to do some laps in the passenger seat and:

a. it goes like stink

b. handles pretty good and

c. stu seems to handle a steering wheel pretty good.

the dino-line is a unusual setup but its working damn well.

thanks mate, made a small error with uncle Duncan in the car like missing turn 1 but other than that the car was much better behaved. was much more confident under braking.

have some light throttle tuning to sort out and a gearbox selector issue but other than that very happy.

car held its own in a staight line against a few cars boasting 70kwatw more, but the weight factor would have a lot to do with it. wet weather sessions were interesting.....but car was solid once it dried out.

f**k this thing is loud on the inside.

don't know how happy stu was with it....but I was lucky enough to do some laps in the passenger seat and:

a. it goes like stink

b. handles pretty good and

c. stu seems to handle a steering wheel pretty good.

the dino-line is a unusual setup but its working damn well.

  • 2 weeks later...

Some good Superlap type cars in the new issue of Zoom Magazine, boys and girls. Tilton Interiors Evo, a psycho red Supra (SUPRAT) and some great photography from the event.

There's also a full feature on the Roger Clark Motorsport (RCM) Gobstopper WRX and Stu's awesome LS1 R32.

Enjoy :-)

29cwc28.jpg

I knew there was a build thread around here somewhere and i've only just found it now.

Seeing this animal in the metal idling at a standing still and running on the track is a sight to behold. It's something that you just can't visualise mentally because it has to be seen in person.

Some shots I snapped of it running at Oran Park at the SAUNSW track day. :)

_F4U8528.jpg

_F4U7492.jpg

_F4U8084.jpg

_F4U8257.jpg

cant run any forced induction over 3000cc engine capacity in sports sedan and maximum of 6000cc aspirated.

ill stroke this engine when i freshen it up which hopefully wont be in the near future. car is a handful now with 300kw, cant imagine another 100kw.

currently in the process of getting car log-booked, just finishing off a few little odds and ends like remote battery isolator cable and sealing rear parcel tray. Getting inspected this week-end.

Thanks for the great words and pictures Xmetal. love the shot at the back of the track....

ls1 is an import. 5.0L V8 was holdens last V8 motor castine block.

if u knew something about those motors u can strap a snail on and get easy 400rwkw with stock internals..no shit motor!

Car all log-booked and have sent away for my L2S liscence.

Looking forward to show-n-shine in december, as i dont think ill get it out for a meeting before the end of the year. Discovered the tach-recall button and got a shock to see highest recorded rpm, probably shouldnt do that too often.

post-20078-1257797007_thumb.jpg

  • 2 months later...

reverse gear repaired and gearbox back in the car, looking forward to next track day which will probably be at wakie and then powercruise.

weighed car and it went 1193kg which is a little heavier than i thought but still lite enough.

reverse gear repaired and gearbox back in the car, looking forward to next track day which will probably be at wakie and then powercruise.

weighed car and it went 1193kg which is a little heavier than i thought but still lite enough.

Good on you man you should be proud of yourself for trying this . i have a porsche carrera 2 with an LS1 in it, with great help from others , the LS1 motor is lighter than the stock 6 with turbos and generates more power . Good luck
Good on you man you should be proud of yourself for trying this . i have a porsche carrera 2 with an LS1 in it, with great help from others , the LS1 motor is lighter than the stock 6 with turbos and generates more power . Good luck

Do show, where is your build thread?

  • 2 months later...

hey guys, long time since any updates. Running the car on Anzac day to finish tune on the track to tidy up some light throttle issues. Also trying some new wheel alignment specs. Hope to see some of you there.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks Duncan! Yeah it's street use for me only. Maybe occasional track day. Any difference in noise when running with the two pumps? I would expect the lift pump to be more quiet than the main pump so hopefully not? And yes, unfortunately quite a big price difference to the simple hanger setup. Though I'm usually willing to trade money for better reliability and future-proofing. Buy once, cry once and all that. I'd be very happy to never have to deal with fuel pump / wiring issues again  
    • The old manifold was quite under the GTR strut brace.  The new manifold is quite [unknown] the GTR strut brace. The GTR strut brace was needed to clear the bonnet vents. The Old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, but not the bonnet vents. The old strut brace will almost certainly clear the new manifold, and the new bonnet without vents. But I am hoping the GTR strut brace clears the new manifold :p
    • On the bright side, at least you knew that it happened and remedied before anything happened. A friend of mine just took his Fiat 124 to a shop for an oil change and they didn't tighten the oil filter housing properly. 4.5 quarts spewed out and even after refilling + tightening the cap the engine has a tick now.
    • So, more pain. The FAST manifold is a little larger than the stocker. This is problematic because there really wasn't much clearance to begin with, so going from 'barely enough' well into 'no' is sad based on the external dimensions of the thing, even though where it bolts to the head is the same. Result is the fuel rails sit a good 25mm higher, and this is a bit of an issue with the wiring that runs behind the motor, and the fuel lines, and everything else. When pushing the manifold on, it required a huge amount of force to crush wiring looms to fit it, sensors like the MAP sensor are about 1mm from the firewall, and the FPR just has to bend ABS lines to be forced into place. After some brainstorming and some sad drinking, the loom for some reason ran from the grommet behind the ABS sensor, then to the driver side head, then back to the passenger side head. So all of this was pulled back and stripped, a few wires cut and rejoined, so that the 'branch' was now on the passenger side's head as below: Before you basically couldn't see anything behind the driver head. This is much improved! The MAP sensor is now pointing up (instead of at the firewall) Brackets have been made up for the rail. The rails are for a LS1, the manifold is designed around a LS2 as it's base. Which of course has slightly different bracketry and water pump clearance, hence the mods people need to do. Should be hopefully mounted tonight. I spent money on a new FPR that is slightly more compact than my Turbosmart FPR1200. The gauge has also been moved to the rail. There's also apparently an ORB to AN Union instead of the adapter, because the ~25mm of the current adapter is going to make the difference. Provided this all goes together and arrives today, it'll be the totally not stressful attempt to start it.
×
×
  • Create New...