Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I'm heading overseas for around 6 months. I'm leaving my R33 in the garage and will be covered, have battery disconnected, handbrake off (bricks behind the wheels) and my dad will be there to run it every few weeks.

Any advice on something i've missed? Will i come back to any problems? I heard the ECU has its own power source, but how long will that last without the normal battery? I'm guess oiling and fuelling will also be a problem after being left so long.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187896-going-abroad/
Share on other sites

I always put my car up on axle stands if im storing it for a while, should prevent the shocks from leaking (been doing it for so long now im not sure where I heard it from)

I wouldnt worry about the ECU if its stock, it automatically resets after 50 starts or so...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187896-going-abroad/#findComment-3389806
Share on other sites

dont be too worried mate. I have lost my license twice, where my 33 sat in the back shed sleeping for quite long periods.

No big issue if you ask me. Others may disagree though...

Currently, my car has been sitting in the back shed since Australia Day this year, and i have taken it for a drive 3 times since that day. All i did was waste as much of the remaining petrol as possible when i first put it away in January. I top her up a couple of litres of fresh fuel every time i start it, let it warm up for 5-10 mins, and take it for a quick chomp around the block.

She runs just as i left her, on Australia day. Good as Gold...

I miss my bitch :D

ah well, - I get her back in December, and i cant fkn wait... sick of driving the missus 4banger.

i WILL be doing a service immediateley when i get it back. It cant hurt at all.

Standard ECU losing all its power isn't a problem either - dont know about aftermarket items like Power FCs etc though!

Some say also to put your car up on jackstands. i couldnt be farked...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187896-going-abroad/#findComment-3389851
Share on other sites

Telling your dad to give it a drive once a week should be fine.

Is leaving a tank of fuel sit there good? I would've though having the least amount of petrol in the tank would've been best because the fuel 'expires' and you would have to refill anyway.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187896-going-abroad/#findComment-3390412
Share on other sites

Thanks for all the replies fellas. Bunch of legends.

Sounds like all i need to do is prop her up on jack stands. Ahh i know where to put them at thr front, on that panel under the motor, but where do i put the stands at the back?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187896-going-abroad/#findComment-3391147
Share on other sites

To be honest, for 6 months I wouldnt bother with Jack stands.

I lived in London for just under a year and still had my V8 taxi here.

Dad drove it every weekend, most weekends was a 15min drive, and then the occasional central coast trip for the day.

Never had any dramas with that car when I got back.

If your Dad is going to be driving it, would he be bothered to put it back on the jack stands after each time and taking them off etc?

You'll be right mate, and its good to see someone else passionate about their car :thumbsup:

p.s. where you off to?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187896-going-abroad/#findComment-3391296
Share on other sites

Champion advice mate. I won't bother with stands. Yeh my R33 is my transport, hobby, thrills, chick magnet, etc. I'm seriously in love with it :thumbsup:

Yeh old man's gonna keep running it, so guess ur right- it's like i'm still here. There's a twinkle in his eye though...like he's gonna learn how to powerslide to Woolies while i'm gone :happy:

Oh well, as long as it's working when i'm back.

Gonna head to UK and wanna travel round Europe a bit, after i finish Uni (finishing soon). Hope i can find a PC over there, so i can keep up with SAU!

Thanks brother

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187896-going-abroad/#findComment-3391442
Share on other sites

chick magnet wtf!?!?!?!

hahaha

Actually - hows this...the day I bought my R33...the day I met my mrs - and today - are still together 2 years later hahaha

Oh, and make sure your old man is covered on your insurance policy before you go :)

Yep, plenty of internet cafes there - in half of the european ones, they sell beer also :happy:

Be careful when you get back though, your old man might not want to give you the keys back :thumbsup:

Cheers!

Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/187896-going-abroad/#findComment-3391486
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Jdm DC2R is also nice for a FF car compared to the regular hatches of the time.
    • Now that the break-in period for both clutch and transmission is nearly over I'd like to give some tips before I forget about everything that happened, also for anyone searching up how to do this job in the future: You will need at least 6 ton jack stands at full extension. I would go as far as to say maybe consider 12 ton jack stands because the height of the transmission + the Harbor Freight hydraulic platform-style transmission jack was enough that it was an absolute PITA getting the transmission out from under the car and back in. The top edge of the bellhousing wants to contact the subframe and oil pan and if you're doing this on the floor forget about trying to lift this transmission off the ground and onto a transmission jack from under the car. Also do not try to use a scissor jack transmission lift. You have to rotate the damn thing in-place on the transmission jack which is hard enough with an adjustable platform and a transmission cradle that will mostly keep the transmission from rolling off the jack but on a scissor lift with a tiny non-adjustable platform? Forget it. Use penetrating oil on the driveshaft bolts. I highly recommend getting a thin 6 point combination (box end + open end) wrench for both the rear driveshaft and front driveshaft and a wrench extension. These bolts are on tight with very little space to work with and those two things together made a massive difference. Even a high torque impact wrench is just the wrong tool for the job here and didn't do what I needed it to do. If your starter bolts aren't seized in place for whatever reason you can in fact snake in a 3/8 inch ratchet + 6 point standard chrome socket up in there and "just" remove the bolts for the starter. Or at least I could. It is entirely by feel, you can barely fit it in, you can barely turn the stupid ratchet, but it is possible. Pull the front pipe/downpipe before you attempt to remove the transmission. In theory you don't have to, in practice just do it.  When pulling the transmission on the way out you don't have to undo all the bolts holding the rear driveshaft to the chassis like the center support bearing and the rear tunnel reinforcement bar but putting the transmission back in I highly recommend doing this because it will let you raise the transmission without constantly dealing with the driveshaft interfering in one way or another. I undid the bottom of the engine mount but I honestly don't know that it helped anything. If you do this make sure you put a towel on the back of the valve cover to keep the engine from smashing all the pipes on the firewall. Once the transmission has been pulled back far enough to clear the dowels you need to twist it in place clockwise if you're sitting behind the transmission. This will rotate the starter down towards the ground. The starter bump seems like it might clear if you twist the transmission the other way but it definitely won't. I have scraped the shit out of my transmission tunnel trying so learn from my mistake. You will need a center punch and an appropriate size drill bit and screw to pull the rear main seal. Then use vice grips and preferably a slide hammer attachment for those vice grips to yank the seal out. Do not let the drill or screw contact any part of the crank and clean the engine carefully after removing the seal to avoid getting metal fragments into the engine. I used a Slide Hammer and Bearing Puller Set, 5 Piece from Harbor Freight to pull the old pilot bearing. The "wet paper towel" trick sucked and just got dirty clutch water everywhere. Buy the tool or borrow it from a friend and save yourself the pain. It comes right out. Mine was very worn compared to the new one and it was starting to show cracks. Soak it in engine oil for a day in case yours has lost all of the oil to the plastic bag it comes in. You may be tempted to get the Nismo aftermarket pilot bearing but local mechanics have told me that they fail prematurely and if they do fail they do far more damage than a failed OEM pilot bushing. I mentioned this before but the Super Coppermix Twin clutch friction disks are in fact directional. The subtle coning of the fingers in both cases should be facing towards the center of the hub. So the coning on the rearmost disk closest to the pressure plate should go towards the engine, and the one closest to the flywheel should be flipped the other way. Otherwise when you torque down the pressure plate it will be warped and if you attempt to drive it like this it will make a very nasty grinding noise. Also, there is in fact an orientation to the washers for the pressure plate if you don't want to damage the anodizing. Rounded side of the washer faces the pressure plate. The flat side faces the bolt head. Pulling the transmission from the transfer case you need to be extremely careful with the shift cover plate. This part is discontinued. Try your best to avoid damaging the mating surfaces or breaking the pry points. I used a dead blow rubber hammer after removing the bolts to smack it sideways to slide it off the RTV the previous mechanic applied. I recommend using gasket dressing on the OEM paper gasket to try and keep the ATF from leaking out of that surface which seems to be a perpetual problem. Undoing the shifter rod end is an absolute PITA. Get a set of roll pin punches. Those are mandatory for this. Also I strongly, strongly recommend getting a palm nailer that will fit your roll pin punch. Also, put a clean (emphasis on clean) towel wrapped around the back end of the roll pin to keep it from shooting into the transfer case so you can spend a good hour or two with a magnet on a stick getting it out. Do not damage the shifter rod end either because those are discontinued as well. Do not use aftermarket flywheel bolts. Or if you do, make sure they are exactly the same dimensions as OEM before you go to install them. I have seen people mention that they got the wrong bolts and it meant having to do the job again. High torque impact wrench makes removal easy. I used some combination of a pry bar and flathead screwdriver to keep the flywheel from turning but consider just buying a proper flywheel lock instead. Just buy the OS Giken clutch alignment tool from RHDJapan. I hated the plastic alignment tool and you will never be confident this thing will work as intended. Don't forget to install the Nismo provided clutch fork boot. Otherwise it will make unearthly noises when you press the clutch pedal as it says on the little installation sheet in Japanese. Also, on both initial disassembly and assembly you must follow torque sequence for the pressure plate bolts. For some reason the Nismo directions tell you to put in the smaller 3 bolts last. I would not do this. Fully insert and thread those bolts to the end first, then tighten the other larger pressure plate bolts according to torque sequence. Then at the end you can also torque these 3 smaller bolts. Doing it the other way can cause these bolts to bind and the whole thing won't fit as it should. Hope this helps someone out there.
    • Every one has seemed to of have missed . . . . . . . The Mazda Cosmo . . . . . . what a MACHINE ! !
×
×
  • Create New...