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Hi Guys,

well my stock r32 turbo is on its last legs due to the fact that any + boost applied causes a sound which could only be explained as a the sphincter of the universe stuck in a blender. I have purchased a s2 r33 turbo from a forum member and I’m going to get it put in ASAP. I just have a couple of questions as I need to make sure I don’t forget to buy anything ect. Basically I’m on a very strict budget so I really can’t make any mistakes

That’s where you guys come in J

My current setup:

r32 gts-t 93,000ks manual

Rb20det

gtr fuel pump

serviced stock injectors

new plugs

pod

3” front pipe back exhaust

boost gauge

a/f gauge

parts to go on

3” split dump pipe

flying fuel adjustable pressure regulator

FMIC

Q1

I have a cold starting issue which causes the car to take 5-6 tried before it starts and I have to flutter the accelerator pedal to get it to lump over else it won’t start. Once the car starts and revs over 2000rpm it idles and drives fine I believe it’s due to low fuel pressure so I have purchased a flying adjustable fuel pressure regulator with gauge so I can check it out and troubleshoot further. Do you think it is fuel pressure?????

Q2

I’m not doing to turbo swap myself so I wonder about cost of install as I need to get the dump put on and the FPR install. (I know the FPR is easy to install but the stock reg screws are threaded and I can’t think of a way to get it off.) Any ideas?????

Q3

if I did put the reg on myself what if its set to high can it stuff or blow my engine trying to start it??

Thanks guys hope there is enough info for you

please help

Q2

I’m not doing to turbo swap myself so I wonder about cost of install as I need to get the dump put on and the FPR install. (I know the FPR is easy to install but the stock reg screws are threaded and I can’t think of a way to get it off.) Any ideas?????

Q3

if I did put the reg on myself what if its set to high can it stuff or blow my engine trying to start it??

Thanks guys hope there is enough info for you

please help

Q2 should be about 6 hours to do the install

Q3 you really need to get a fuel pressure gauge and set it correctly otherwise you risk flooding the motor or starving it, both of which are not good.

well my stock r32 turbo is on its last legs due to the fact that any + boost applied causes a sound which could only be explained as a the sphincter of the universe stuck in a blender.

Where can I get a turbo like that from?!

I'm not an expert but here's my ideas:

1) I have a similar problem with cold starting. It wants to stall, though i tap the throttle and it's fine. Seems to be lack of fuel pressure i reckon too. Don't know if the pressure regulator will help, ask someone to put it on if you're not 100% confident. Maybe your fuel filter is dirty and slows everything down.

2) The turbo install, well far as i know most workshops are about $60-$80 an hour. Might end up costing you 3-$400 approx to get it put on. Get some quotes. Go for quality work first (duh), not dirt cheap. Yeh get them to add the dump while you're there. It's not a big thing to screw it to the turbo and saves you the work for a little extra cash.

3) Same as 1. I don't have one so i'm not sure about how to set it, so make sure it's done right either by you or a mechanic.

You probably already know, but stock R33 turbos aren't strong so keep it to 11-12psi max.

Good luck mate. Enjoy the extra power :thumbsup:

turbo, dump, o2 sensor all at once.

Call nissco on 9761 4743, say ryan sent you. I go there coz the work is top notch and the service is awesome.

GKtech dump pipe is ~100$

-Ryan

thanks for the info guys, awesome as usual. im gunna take it into a performance shop and get there ideas on the situation aswell. its just that from my experience you guys know more that any shop i have taken the car to seriously.

fpr's should be set to 1:1 by default and once its put in it can then be modified right??? i just need the guage side if things so i can see the pressure drop/raise. as the injectors/fuel pump and filter have been done i can only think that fuel is len its does start eaking back to the tank causing me to have to pump the pedal to get it to started.

even when it does start it does so very slowly and i can hear each cylinder firing for 3 seconds or so then it picks up and is fine. sometimes i hear a popping sound coming from the engine in that 3 second period as well. whats that??????

skylines, so many problems so little money

man i must love my car to put up with this.

ok,

you havent mentioned whether the turbo comes with the compressor outlet elbow or not. You WILL need this part.

Other than that it is just gaskets and putting a nipple somewhere on the intercooler piping for the wastegate actuator.

The rest bolts up turbo wise.

My car does a similar thing when cold starting but it is because it runs rich. get someone to start the car for you when it is cold

while you are looking at the exhaust. when it first fires up check to see if it blows any smoke

Q1 - Buying the FPR was prolly a little premature. The idle control valve, or stepper, should open sufficiently to start the car. If you need to feather the throttle; maybe give it a clean. Check the ECU for error codes, clean AFM etc etc. Rape the forums search button for others experiances.

Q2 - Use a penetrator on the screw and let soak... then use some multi grips around the outside of it. Try a "ezi out" if not previous doesn't work. Set the base to 43-45psi fuel pressure.

Q3 - Setting the pressure too high or too low will stop it from starting, but it wont blow up. Setting the pressure too high and running it for a long time could coke your combustion chamber. Setting the pressure too low and running it could blow your motor up.

If you have some basic tools, patience and are able to use the search button on this forum, you should be able to save your self the labour by fitting turbo and dump. I would leave the FPR unless your getting the thing tuned / chipped in the future.

Edited by GeeTR
hi guys this is a link to pics of the turbo i got http://members.dodo.com.au/n0ob

does this have a compressor outlet elbow????

Nope. The middle picture from your link. The silver side on the left is the compressor cover, containing the compressor wheel. The bit pointing down, is the outlet, and a flanged elbow would bolt on there i would assume.

Edited by GeeTR

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