Jump to content
SAU Community

Engineering your car's mods ??

B-Man

By B-Man,
in New South Wales

 Share

Recommended Posts

croat Mentor

croat

Posted
Posted

A friend of mine who is a mechanic told me a way around getting defected or at least a way of getting cops out of your engine bay. Its a hassle but i think it would work. The level to open your bonnet disconnect it, then fix it elsewhere so the original level does not work. If they ask you to pop your bonnet you simply cant. and thats not your problem. Oppinions?

wilch Grand Master

wilch

Posted
Posted
A friend of mine who is a mechanic told me a way around getting defected or at least a way of getting cops out of your engine bay. Its a hassle but i think it would work. The level to open your bonnet disconnect it, then fix it elsewhere so the original level does not work. If they ask you to pop your bonnet you simply cant. and thats not your problem. Oppinions?

They'd most probably say the car was un-roadworthy. ie. If something caught fire under there there's no way of getting an extinguisher to it. So they'd defect you for that.

wil..

wilch Grand Master

wilch

Posted
Posted

One thing about police and defects though. Personally I've not had problems with the police in my 7+ years of driving. For the majority of those years I drove a Honda Integra with cams, pod, loud exhaust, and lots of suspension mods. The car was lower than legal, the lowest point on the car being <10cm off the ground.

The car handled well. (I spent good money, on good suspension). It wasn't one of these chop the springs jobs. Sure the lowest point was <10cm off the ground but I had alot of travel in the wheels still (1990 integra had HUGE guards).

The wheels were 5 spoke, dished and only 16" in diameter, but 7.5" in width (which was 3" wider than the stock wheels). No bodykit was on the car.

Now I was pulled over once in this car. It was 2am in strathfield, and well there's a sweeping right hander which it the time I thought, "why the hell not" and heel-toed from 4th to 3rd to 2nd, and floored it around the corner. Guess what was coming the other way. The police heard me coming and they turned around and pulled me over.

I was scared/worried. Anyway, I answered all their questions and was as polite as I could be. The policeman's opening line was, "You took that corner very fast now didn't you?". My response was I didn't know what else to say. Saying "yes" is incriminating, saying "no" is flat out lying and inflamatory.

While talking to the cop I noticed that the other policeman came up the left side of my car with a torch. The guy I was talking to nodded to and motioned the other policeman to go back to the cop car. I found this weird...After talking to me and realising I wasn't being a dick, and I seemed a halfway decent and respectable person was he telling the other cop not to worry about the defects?

wil..

GoldZilla Grand Master

GoldZilla

Posted
Posted
I think if you dont wear a baseball cap you can get away without the engineer's certificate

 

my 2c

Isn't that only if you don't wear it backwards?

Backwards baseball cap is an automatic defect, isn't it? It's a weigh-bridge and pits job to clear, so I've heard...

:jk:

VL-TRBO-RB20 Grand Master

VL-TRBO-RB20

Posted
Posted

i had to get my car engineered when i bought it,

the engineer started the cert a year b4 i bought the car and because the only place in my town with a EPA printer, the printer broke so he did most of the inspection there and after i purchised my car i got it engineered he gave me a $100 discount because he started it the previous year and never got around to doing it! so it only cost me $330 instead of $440 good bloke i say!

i got it done at

Enkleman enterprises

brayside drive brayside

in melb

and colin young did mine! hes a good guy :cheers:

VL-TRBO-RB20 Grand Master

VL-TRBO-RB20

Posted
Posted

its only got the stock computer (RB20) i need to get it remapped to handle the bigger turbo and more boost i just am finding that i dont have as much power as i should...

but after the ECU its str8 to the dyno then if im still not happy a shift kit and high stall

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

I hope you mean oil catch cat. Cause if your oil cooler has a pipe that isn't connected at one end, you may find yourself without oil and motor :)

I'm going to assume you mean oil catch tank, so my suggestion would be go and grab your copies of HPI, Zoom hot4s what ever and look for articles on 180s, silvias etc (any cars with SR20s) and find the ones with oil catch tanks, have a look at how theirs are set-up. That should give you some ideas about how to make yours closed.

Richard

someonestolecc Grand Master

someonestolecc

Posted
Posted

Oil catch can.

From what I know it's like an oil catch tank but it's a can instead of a tank so it's smaller.

As far as I can tell the pipe never has any oil flowing from it.. I'm not too sure to be honost what's mean to come out that pipe. I assume its oil but I can't imagine under what circumstances it would come out (i guess if the catch can/tank is full of gunk?)

But yeah I'll speak to some more mechanically minded people than I and see what I need to do.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      HKS stroker kit step 0/1 or HKS GTIII 2530

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Reading your posts Josh, sometimes I feel like I've gone in a time machine back to the 90's when everyone was doe-eyed and figuring things out for the first time.  I've lost track of how many single turbo GTR's I've seen on track that haven't burnt down lol. Everything has been figured out a long time ago. These things are at the point now where its essentially turn-key to go single turbo. 
    • joshuaho96
      HKS stroker kit step 0/1 or HKS GTIII 2530

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Among other things yes. Making sure to either use an oil pressure regulator or the right restrictor size for your oil pump/range of oil viscosities you intend to run, making sure you plumb the lines correctly, turbo should be placed such that it siphons properly even when the water pump isn't turning so you don't boil coolant in the turbo after shutdown, oil return should be low resistance and also preferably picking the one that is most likely to return to the pickup as opposed to some other irrelevant part of the pan. It's far from impossible to figure this out but I have seen people really, really struggle and if that's the case it's easier to just take the path of least resistance. To me, bolt-on twin turbos are a fixed cost whereas single turbo is almost unbounded.
    • Looney_Head
      R32 GTS-t RB30 sedan

      By Looney_Head · Posted

      Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • GTSBoy
      HKS stroker kit step 0/1 or HKS GTIII 2530

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
    • joshuaho96
      HKS stroker kit step 0/1 or HKS GTIII 2530

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Turbos don't require pulling the motor apart so that's "easier". I would recommend the Nismo R3 turbos instead if you want to do stock twin turbo. It doesn't make as much power as the 2530s but it's only like ~50 whp off the mark and should have better response (ball bearing CHRA, slightly smaller turbo). A local that went with a Garrett G30 and 6boost manifold recently nearly burned his car to the ground after the hood insulator started melting and and burning so if you go single turbo I recommend doing a lot of research and validation work to make sure you don't do the same.
×
×
  • Create New...