Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I went to Calder for the first time last night. Just wanted to now what people think

Just a background on the car. R33 Series 2

FMIC/Exhaust/Safc2/ 0.75Bar boost (13psi ish?)

190-195 rwkw

The suspension setup sucks. springs on the front, Rock hard Tiens on the rear, Maxxi tyres. Took out my sound gear

It was raining so didnt start til 7.30pm. I left at 8.30 and had 7 runs :) There was only about 15-20 street cars so pretty much by the time i reached the start line after my drag it was my turn again.

SO here are my E/T's, 60foot and km/h in order

15.125-----2.529-----138.36

14.631-----2.535-----47.48 ?

14.857-----2.372-----158.53

14.285-----2.404-----165.98

14.014-----2.376-----168.73

13.982-----2.378-----169.14

14.044-----2.435-----168.75

I know the car has a lot more in it if I could just learn how to drive it. I know my launches sucked. I was nervous so i usually dropped the clutch and got wheel spin or bogged down. It was a drama for me to just work out the staging location lol.

So yeh any feedback would be appreciated :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188170-my-first-time-at-calder/
Share on other sites

I agree, there is 4 tenths in yor 60 foot time. Invest in a set of Mickey Thompsons. Soften up the rear and she'll be apples. It is possible to go 1.7 in a R33.

Just gotta get your 60ft time down, all there is to that really. (your tyres/suspension isnt helping you)

into the 2.1/2.0 on streets would be reasonable and be closer to a mid 13.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Strength. And on the early RB26, full engagement of the pump drive.
    • I really don't understand the point of aftermarket oil pumps if your particular engine doesn't need more oil pressure. As far as I can make sense of it the problem seems to be cavitation from sucking air, maybe the pump gear design with how it interfaces with the OEM crank, and maybe the backing plate screws wanting to loosen themselves. How does flowing more oil fix these issues?
    • More photos are up, and the price has been dropped to $16,000. It's just had a service and a new 12V battery, too.
    • I agree on doing some better than factory pistons, rods, and oil pump. For anyone using the vehicle on the road, I don't get why everyone wants big cams. The stock cam profile, with some more lift would be mint for road usage. Everyone going big cams and then wondering why it isn't as responsive in traffic, when they've shifted the torque curve upwards an additional 1000RPM. Make torque, at lower RPM. Sure it's not as cool as claiming "500KW" and revving it to 8,0000RPM, but that same torque 2,000RPM earlier... Then you don't need the extremely high end pistons and rods, and blah blah blah.
    • Personal experience. Those f**kers burn. And are actually a PITA to put out. Next time I walk down the back, I'll snap a photo of what the inside of the bonnet looks like when that thing ignites. PS, powder fire extinguishers are useless on that stuff too as it's fibrous and when it ignites, it starts to pull apart. And you end up just blowing powder through a sieve effectively.   Like the big thing is, if it's fire resistant, it's job is to stop what burning? The METAL above it? It's just to try keep heat off the bonnet paint work.
×
×
  • Create New...