Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

The factory boost gauge on my R33 GTR isnt working. Actually its never worked since i bought the car. Where is the sender located for this gauge? I suspect its been unplugged with the AVCR was installed...

Cheers,

Ian

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188240-boost-gauge-not-working/
Share on other sites

Found the map sensor, and also found the hose that was connected to it that had been left dangling into the abyss under the plenum, not connected to anything.

Where is this connection on the rear of the plenum? Do you mean between the firewall and the plenum directly?

Cheers,

Ian

Found the map sensor, and also found the hose that was connected to it that had been left dangling into the abyss under the plenum, not connected to anything.

Where is this connection on the rear of the plenum? Do you mean between the firewall and the plenum directly?

Cheers,

Ian

The tube that connects in to is at the very rear of the plenum, you can't miss it but I think you will need a new hose you will find it will be hardened and even cracked .

Found it! Started the car and felt around for something making a vacuum. I found a piece of rubber over the end of the hose fitting on the plenum. It that had broken off the main hose that connects to the map sensor.

This explains the occasional fuel smell i'd been noticing too, as well as the rich as hell when on boost, as the AFM's sensing more airflow, but it was leaking it out the hole in the intake. Should be interesting to see how much response I get back.

Thanks WRXHOON!

Edited by Vspec R33
  • 1 year later...
This happened to me only a couple weeks ago. It was a cheap $2.50 fix for new hose.

Sorry for bump

i have the same problem - i must be retarted :) after hour and half i still cant find where i have to plug the hose on plenum's end.

boost gauge sits just below 0 as soon as i turn key on to ACC, when started car boost up fine, can feel it, hear turbos spooling up, but gauge doesnt move.

after searching through found this thread and sure enough - hose that goes to boost gauge was just hanging from plenums end :)

any help ? picture will be best :D

cheers

if you found the map sensor up under the edge of the inner guard, next to the brake booster... disconnect the hose from it and start the car. at idle it should pull a vacuum that you can feel on the end of the hose. If the vacuum is there... sensor/wiring issue. If there is no vacuum trace the hose back and see where its broken or split.

Infact check it anyway... Its seems that hose from factory was never good quality. If it were nobody else would have had this problem!

if you found the map sensor up under the edge of the inner guard, next to the brake booster... disconnect the hose from it and start the car. at idle it should pull a vacuum that you can feel on the end of the hose. If the vacuum is there... sensor/wiring issue. If there is no vacuum trace the hose back and see where its broken or split.

Infact check it anyway... Its seems that hose from factory was never good quality. If it were nobody else would have had this problem!

Thanks for the reply

will check hose and replace it just to be sure, i think it is avail at repco/ super cheap auto

was puzled why needle goes to just below zero when key is on ACC? is that normal? even without engine running? couldnt remeber that happening on my gtst...

thanks again :D

It should go a long way below 0 at idle. Youve definatly got a split hose there, and at idle its sucking air in the split, lowering the pressure signal at the gauge's map sensor.

apologies for hijacking your thread

replaced the vacume hose from plenum to black box\sender

still needle stays just below 0

It should go a long way below 0 at idle - it sits at 0 even with out idleing/engine start - just key turned to ACC

faulty boost gauge/ sender ?

thanks for your input - i will try swapping cluster with another.

Sorted.

new hose - no go

swaped gauge cluster - no go

swaped pressure sender (map sender ?) - all good :laugh:

big :D to Ian for putting me in right direction.

now let me begin searching for a map (is that what it is called?)/black box thingy

is it the same as GTST ?

thanks :yes:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I agree on doing some better than factory pistons, rods, and oil pump. For anyone using the vehicle on the road, I don't get why everyone wants big cams. The stock cam profile, with some more lift would be mint for road usage. Everyone going big cams and then wondering why it isn't as responsive in traffic, when they've shifted the torque curve upwards an additional 1000RPM. Make torque, at lower RPM. Sure it's not as cool as claiming "500KW" and revving it to 8,0000RPM, but that same torque 2,000RPM earlier... Then you don't need the extremely high end pistons and rods, and blah blah blah.
    • Personal experience. Those f**kers burn. And are actually a PITA to put out. Next time I walk down the back, I'll snap a photo of what the inside of the bonnet looks like when that thing ignites. PS, powder fire extinguishers are useless on that stuff too as it's fibrous and when it ignites, it starts to pull apart. And you end up just blowing powder through a sieve effectively.   Like the big thing is, if it's fire resistant, it's job is to stop what burning? The METAL above it? It's just to try keep heat off the bonnet paint work.
    • Oh man, sorry, $60.00000000... 😛
    • That's more or less what he meant. What it really means is that you do not have to go full crazy on the build. Don't need the best oil pump, expensive rods & pistons, big cams, etc. You can upgrade whatever you want instead of using stock level items, but you don't have to. Having said that - any time an RB is opened up, if anything is getting replaced, I think the opportunity should be taken to do all the sensible upgrades. Pistons, rods, pump, etc.
    • February update 🙂 We managed to get the very last 1/18th "Extra Scale" cars stock available from bookstores in Kyoto. These are actually the last ones and will not be restocked again! Hachette Collections Japan have not decided on a release date for these or other models in the series, so for the time being these are all there are available new.  These are showing up on Yahoo auctions at inflated prices already (especially the Celica and NSX) so get yours now at a very reasonable price before they disappear! Stock quantities: NA1 Honda NSX - 1 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1990-na1-honda-nsx 1973 Toyota Celica LB 2000GT - 2 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1973-toyota-celica-lb-2000gt 1968 Mazda Cosmo Sport - 2 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1968-mazda-cosmo-sport 1970 KPGC10 Nissan Skyline 2000GT-R - 2 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1970-kpgc10-nissan-skyline-2000gt-r
×
×
  • Create New...