Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All

So i recently sold my buddy club p1s 17*8, 17*9 and so now i have stock rims.

I have used the p1s at wakefield last time and i loved it.. 255s on the rears, and 235s front really suited it well..

Reason i sold the p1s was coz i needed the money for something else important.

Anyways, so i have now stock rims with crap threads. Will get new rubber front and back, but nothing too costly. Maybe 100 each max

So my question is, will stock rims be alright for the track day? Or will i be sliding etc?

I currently have stock suspension with just lowered springs, however the car still handles fairly well.

The car will be tuned with pfc before track day, so i will be pushing a bit more power than last time i was out there.

Still stock turbo etc.. just exhaust, fmic..

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188256-stock-r33-rims-decent-for-track-day/
Share on other sites

I have only ever used my 33 and 33 gtst rims out on the track

(32 for daily - 33 with semi's for track)

my tyres are 225 wide and I havent had any dramas/issues

just monitor the pressures through the day.

100 bucks, you wont get any decend rubber, perhaps for the size of the rim, get some federal 535's

I paid around 140 each I think from payless tyres @ Chatswood and they lasted pretty good when I did a few driver days.

Whens the next wakie do you are doing?

How much did the semi slicks cost you for 225s? also which ones?

So in terms of rim width you think its fine? So you didnt feel like its too narrow?

Just driving stock rims now, i feel like they are way to narrow when going around corners..

-

Umm well the nov calandar hasnt been published yet on their website. So whenver theres an open day i will go..

Once few of my friends finish uni exams etc.. We just gotta pick a date when we all free and go..

When you pick a date, post it up! :)

Well, I havent had any wider tyres on my car so my judgement is very small! however though Im happy with how the car goes with these tyres/rims.

I paid 190 each for some r888's from St George tyres early on in the year and that was on special

225/45/16

Howd you fine those semis at wakefield?

I might just get some t1rs perhaps for the stock rims.. hmmm

what you reckon?

Coz i have used t1rs at wakefield and i had no troubles.. got them sitting in the garage, but obviously cant fit them on stock rims..

As long as you aren't expecting to set any records, the stock wheels and reasonable street tyres will do fine.

A couple of things worth considering: 1) make sure they are an appropriate speed rating, you'll probably hit 160+ at the end of the straight without a problem. 2) Expect to over heat them so they will likely feel a bit greasy after a few laps 3) If they are new and have a lot of tread blocks expect to feel the car walk around on the tread. 4) Throttle control is going to be pretty important as you will cook the tyres easily on corner exit.

I did a day on nankangs recently. Thats what i noticed.

i got tiny lil semis on my 33 stockies and they held up fine.....205/45/16 from a lotus.....

im selling my set, 4 Kuhmo V700 on stock rims for $500 plus throwing in 2 spare semis when these wear out....

1) make sure they are an appropriate speed rating, you'll probably hit 160+ at the end of the straight without a problem.

I will check for this..

) Expect to over heat them so they will likely feel a bit greasy after a few laps

umm you mean normal street rubber doing this?

I had no problems with t1rs front, and Advan Ad07s on the rears..

4) Throttle control is going to be pretty important as you will cook the tyres easily on corner exit.

wow no idea what you mean by this sorry :P

umm you mean normal street rubber doing this?

I had no problems with t1rs front, and Advan Ad07s on the rears..

wow no idea what you mean by this sorry :P

You can overheat any tyre. If you are pushing on street tyres you will start to melt them at the edge of the tread blocks. On wakefield the front passenger side tyre gets worked hard and you will see little strips of melted rubber hangin off the inner edges of the treads after a session. And T1r's and AD07's aren't exactly $100 tyres.

If you try and accelerate hard out of a corner on cheap narrow street rubber, particularly with little suspension work done, you will spin up the wheels. At wakefield you will almost certainly have problems coming out of turn 2 and heading up the hill, out of turn 4 across the top, possibly out of turns 7 and 8 (fish hook) and almost definately out of turn 10 coming onto the straight. Remembering that the more you spin the wheels, the hotter the tyres get, the worse the grip is, and so it's more likely that you spin the wheels......

Admittedly i was lapping in the low 13's on the nankangs so I was asking a lot of them. In the initial sessions I was all over the place, once i got used to them and smoothed out my driving a bit they came good and were fairly consistant.

what you mean for not much longer after?

I did about 2 track days on them and 2 motokhanas and a supersprint at bathurst - after 5th event on them, they were hopeless even on the street and when it was raining I didnt want to drive the car at all on those tyres - totally destryoed them!

My thoughts - buy Brenden's rims with semi's and keep them as your track tyres only :)

Just be easy on throttle and wait till after apex/car is straightening up to get on the gas - will be easier on the streeters :D

the biggest cost in any wheel/tyre combo is usually the tyres by a long way. consider if you do trackdays at 8 or 10 a year you will need 2 or 3 sets of new tyres are year. so I would get some decent second hand wheels. some 33 GTR wheels are good. the 33 GTST wheels have a few things against them. not much air to the brakes compared to other designs. they are very narrow. they are heavy. they are cast. on the upside they are dirt cheap. but seriously if you are going regular track days you are looking at $2000 a year on decent tyres minimum so shell out say $1000 for some nice second hand 17X8/9 wheels, they will last for years and years.

but if you are just out there to have a bit of fun, then don't worry about it too much and just run whatever you have/can afford.

Makes a lot of sense now!!

Thanks for all your help!!

A lot of thinking to do before i go to this track day :thumbsup:

I got a month and a bit, so im hoping i have some enough coin to buy a set of rims..

Will see what happens..

cheers all

Mind you though Sidd - if your not going to be doing track days/sprints every month, its not a major issue.

I do normally 1 day a month (well, works out to be that a year!) and I dont have any issues with the rims.

However if I were going to be doing the club sprint series with the SSCC next year Id be looking at better rims, lighter and more cooling :rolleyes:

So my question is, will stock rims be alright for the track day? Or will i be sliding etc?

Who's to say that sliding isn't alright? :thumbsup:

In all seriousness, if you're just starting out on track work its good to keep your limits lowered. Learning how to drive your car at the limit is a lot easier and safer when you're not going fast, and so if/when it breaks away you've got more time to react and the cost of failure is lower.

My recommendation is to go call up the usual motorsport tyre shops (Gordon Leven, Garys, etc) and find out if they have any used R comp tyres in your size. Chances are they'll be shagged, but they'll be cheap and they'll have good heat resistance (compared to regular street tyres).

I picked up a set of dead Advan A032Rs from Gordon Leven in 235/45 R17 for $80 a pop. They were practically on the indicators, and they had about as much grip as a set of street tyres. I did 3 track days and there was almost no wear exhibited. However, I could go flat out for the full 15 minutes of the track session and they never overheated, unlike if I'd bought Nankangs or some other street tyre and tried the same thing.

Don't expect to set any lap records on them, and there's a good chance you'll be hanging the tail out, but they'll be better at handling circuit loads / temps than buying some $100 Nankang's or Wan-Li's. If you're not planning on daily driving on these wheels, their tread depth won't be an issue.

Once you improve your track craft and start hunting for tenths, then maybe look at going to a wider rim and getting fresher R-Comps. But, for now, I'd say they were fine.

Edited by scathing

^^ Well its going to be my 2nd attempt at wakefield this year..

Who knows, i might go again twice next year.. But i deff wont do it every month, coz i couldnt afford it plus i have uni and work..

Im gonna try and find a good set of rims before track day.. If i cant, then i will stick with the stockies and just use some street rubber and just have some fun out there..

I was just so impressed with my last set of rims/rubbers..

anyways it sall good..

Thanks for the help and suggestions everyone..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Meanwhile, 20+ years ago, I pulled out the 105mm hole saw and went straight down through the inner guard in front of the airbox to get my stormwater pipe cold air intake in. Right behind the two stock holes for the intercooler pipes. Those have no reinforcement (apart from a couple of robust pieces of steel pipe through them!). I feel that the Australian vehicle standards crews put way too much emphasis on "maintaining the crash performance" of cars and not enough consideration of "any crash is a new and wonderful experiment with a random selection of parameters and you will never be able to tell if an extra 80mm hole through some sheet metal caused a significant difference...but if you close your eyes and squint at the whole structure, engage your engineering brain and have a good think about it, you'd have to expect that it would do jack all."
    • You guys are focussing on the wrong part of this post and have headed off on an irrelevant tangent!  Clearly I'm not going to put my most prized physical possession (well it will be once I'm finished it...) on a piece of shit contraption that might fail and crush me or my car!  At no point was that even implied I was trying to buy a butchered P.O.S that some shonky clown had thrown together with a gasless MIG....  Either way I would love to see the build quality of a rotisserie that has failed.  Actually I'd love to see a photo of one that has failed full stop.  Google fails to deliver.  Never happened?? I'll either make one that won't fail or will buy one that wouldn't fail! End Post.....
    • Yeah, if you can't breathe for more than about 2 minutes, you're cooked.
    • Well, all the power should be getting dissipated across the starter motor. Therefore, ideally, the voltage drop across the earth lead should be convincingly close to zero. Certainly you'd want it to be only a volt or so at max, because otherwise that volt doesn't turn up at the starter to do what is required. A car can probably survive a bad enough earth to crank and start with only 9V or so at the starter motor, maybe even a bit less. But you're seeing only 8V at the battery terminals when cranking, so there can't even be that much available over at the starter, which simply won't do. I would have thought that you couldn't pull enough current (with a healthy starter) to make the battery drop to 8V locally. But I was ignoring the possibility that the starter is in fact crook. If it has shorted windings (or maybe the solenoid is borked and shorting to earth) then I guess it could pull a stack of current and not even look like wanting to turn over. So follow the other boys' reccos too. Because they are just as likely at this point.  
    • Depending where the whole gets drilled, and what country/state you're talking about, quite likely not.   Under ole vehicle mod rules in NSW, VSI06 allowed for drilling of holes in "non structural" areas. So you could drill a hole through the inner guard, and not need engineering. You couldn't drill over seams, and it was advised to add extra reinforcing around the hole, as well as something to protect from sharp edges.   Again, it's all about finding the documentation for where the mod is to be done, AND then being able to explain the situation, with the documentation as to why you don't need engineering, with a positive attitude, to any one of the likes eg, police, vehicle inspector, etc.
×
×
  • Create New...