Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

by 75k i mean it was bought with 53k on the clock which i doubt is true (as in the importers etc wound it back like they do with most imports)

yes gearbox oil has been changed with i think it was vmx80 and nulon additive

  • 3 weeks later...

good luck man these things drive u crazy

still have to fix a couple more things like my f**king brakes oh how i hate them and also the grinding noise i get at about 2k on each gear (hopefully new clutch/machine flywheel will fix that)

  • 3 weeks later...
  tek_01 said:
WOHOO, got 4 new tyres wheel balance and alignment and its gone

thank god.

even tho i bought the car with 4 new wheels they must not have balanced them (even tho there were weights on there?)

they must have not been balanced properly, where they stick on weights or hit ons?

if your steering wheel vibrates at bout 100kms, then your front wheels need balancing.

if its at slower speed its usuall a seperated tyre or buckled rim.

from your friendly neighbourhood tyre man.

  • 1 month later...

an update on my problem, my mechanic got the tailshaft balanced to see if that will resolve the problem.

They said it was slightly unbalanced and re-balanced it.

The vibration has mostly gone away, not as bad as before, but its still present at 100km/h+

My mechanic suspects its the tyres, will try swapping with another set of wheels to see if this fixes the problem.

However, if the vibration was slightly fixed with the tailshaft balance, doesnt that mean there is more of a chance of vibration in the drivetrain rather than the tyres causing the problem?

cheers

  • 1 month later...

Well decided to swap my rims with another set of r33 stock rims with new tyres.

Got all 4 wheels balanced too.

Vibration still there at 100km/h+

Next step is to have the clutch removed and rebalanced...hopefully this will finally solve the vibration ~_~

God, I hate hard to diagnose problems like this. I feel for you guys! I had terrible shaking for about 6 months, and threw a lot of money at changing out parts to try and solve it (due to inadequate 'wheel specialists' being unable to properly diagnose the problem).

Rekin, I see you've already done a lot of what I did (bushes/rack etc), and doubt your problem is related to mine, but for those with the shakes over 100kph, check this out:

Steering wheel shakes at speed

haha yeah ive spent so much time trying to fix this problem;

- Several wheel balances and alignments

- camber, castor, subframe, power steering bushes

- replaced whole steering rack

- More wheel balances and alignments

- balanced tailshaft

- Replaced tyres/rims

- Balanced them too

Only step left is to rebalance clutch/flywheel or get a replacement through warranty...

  Rekin said:
haha yeah ive spent so much time trying to fix this problem;

- Several wheel balances and alignments

- camber, castor, subframe, power steering bushes

- replaced whole steering rack

- More wheel balances and alignments

- balanced tailshaft

- Replaced tyres/rims

- Balanced them too

Only step left is to rebalance clutch/flywheel or get a replacement through warranty...

Did the grease monkey put the pins back in that hold the clutch central after it was machined or leave them out ? i have seen this before and it caused a vibration but it was car speed unrelated only vibrated when you hleb the reves up ,. your problem is realtive to wheel speed not car engine rpm ? if so check wheel bearing and all the other garbage,

my 2 cents

I've just noticed a bad vibration in my Stagea. I had an R33 GTR gearbox and R34 GTR clutch installed 6 months ago, and apart from a transfer case failure never had any real vibration. It's not related to revs, and comes on after 40km/h, and get gradually worse until about 80km/h then stays constant. from reading this thread it sounds like something has gone in the driveline, like a bearing or uni joint. does anyone have any experience with uni joint or bearing failures and what they should feel like?

yeah i went for a test and noticed that;

at 100km/h+

- Clutch pressed whole way in + selected gear (4/5) still has vibrations

- Neutral rolling at 100km/h still have vibrations.

Does that rule out it is the clutch/flywheel imbalance?

  • 3 weeks later...
  Rekin said:
haha yeah ive spent so much time trying to fix this problem;

- Several wheel balances and alignments

- camber, castor, subframe, power steering bushes

- replaced whole steering rack

- More wheel balances and alignments

- balanced tailshaft

- Replaced tyres/rims

- Balanced them too

Only step left is to rebalance clutch/flywheel or get a replacement through warranty...

I'm with godzilla67 my moneys on the dowell pins in the flywheel not being replaced,I spoke to Jim Berry at length about flywheels and clutches and he told me that he's seen some really stupid butchery done on them to get them out but laziness,time constraints and the wrong tools adds up to some mechanics or flywheel grinders just grinding them down so they can machine the flywheel in the assumption that the mechanic will get the stubs out after machining and replace them with new ones but some just refit everything and forget or don't know any better.

Jims solution was to get the dowell pins out and drill a tiny hole maybe 2mm right through the dowell holes so next time it's just a matter of punching them out from the other side,he also said replacing pins that have been taken out the butchers way should be mandatory and owing to my concern put dowells in the package with my clutch.Cheers Grey Pearl.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes, I know馃檮 but the sequential is not in my budget... don't want to reduce power neither, so looks like I'm stuck in the rabbit hole馃ぃ
    • You鈥檒l be very upset when you bust that too not to mention the gearing totally sucks. Don鈥檛 do it.
    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30掳 silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30掳 silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
  • Create New...