Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

by 75k i mean it was bought with 53k on the clock which i doubt is true (as in the importers etc wound it back like they do with most imports)

yes gearbox oil has been changed with i think it was vmx80 and nulon additive

  • 3 weeks later...

good luck man these things drive u crazy

still have to fix a couple more things like my f**king brakes oh how i hate them and also the grinding noise i get at about 2k on each gear (hopefully new clutch/machine flywheel will fix that)

  • 3 weeks later...
WOHOO, got 4 new tyres wheel balance and alignment and its gone

thank god.

even tho i bought the car with 4 new wheels they must not have balanced them (even tho there were weights on there?)

they must have not been balanced properly, where they stick on weights or hit ons?

if your steering wheel vibrates at bout 100kms, then your front wheels need balancing.

if its at slower speed its usuall a seperated tyre or buckled rim.

from your friendly neighbourhood tyre man.

  • 1 month later...

an update on my problem, my mechanic got the tailshaft balanced to see if that will resolve the problem.

They said it was slightly unbalanced and re-balanced it.

The vibration has mostly gone away, not as bad as before, but its still present at 100km/h+

My mechanic suspects its the tyres, will try swapping with another set of wheels to see if this fixes the problem.

However, if the vibration was slightly fixed with the tailshaft balance, doesnt that mean there is more of a chance of vibration in the drivetrain rather than the tyres causing the problem?

cheers

  • 1 month later...

Well decided to swap my rims with another set of r33 stock rims with new tyres.

Got all 4 wheels balanced too.

Vibration still there at 100km/h+

Next step is to have the clutch removed and rebalanced...hopefully this will finally solve the vibration ~_~

God, I hate hard to diagnose problems like this. I feel for you guys! I had terrible shaking for about 6 months, and threw a lot of money at changing out parts to try and solve it (due to inadequate 'wheel specialists' being unable to properly diagnose the problem).

Rekin, I see you've already done a lot of what I did (bushes/rack etc), and doubt your problem is related to mine, but for those with the shakes over 100kph, check this out:

Steering wheel shakes at speed

haha yeah ive spent so much time trying to fix this problem;

- Several wheel balances and alignments

- camber, castor, subframe, power steering bushes

- replaced whole steering rack

- More wheel balances and alignments

- balanced tailshaft

- Replaced tyres/rims

- Balanced them too

Only step left is to rebalance clutch/flywheel or get a replacement through warranty...

haha yeah ive spent so much time trying to fix this problem;

- Several wheel balances and alignments

- camber, castor, subframe, power steering bushes

- replaced whole steering rack

- More wheel balances and alignments

- balanced tailshaft

- Replaced tyres/rims

- Balanced them too

Only step left is to rebalance clutch/flywheel or get a replacement through warranty...

Did the grease monkey put the pins back in that hold the clutch central after it was machined or leave them out ? i have seen this before and it caused a vibration but it was car speed unrelated only vibrated when you hleb the reves up ,. your problem is realtive to wheel speed not car engine rpm ? if so check wheel bearing and all the other garbage,

my 2 cents

I've just noticed a bad vibration in my Stagea. I had an R33 GTR gearbox and R34 GTR clutch installed 6 months ago, and apart from a transfer case failure never had any real vibration. It's not related to revs, and comes on after 40km/h, and get gradually worse until about 80km/h then stays constant. from reading this thread it sounds like something has gone in the driveline, like a bearing or uni joint. does anyone have any experience with uni joint or bearing failures and what they should feel like?

yeah i went for a test and noticed that;

at 100km/h+

- Clutch pressed whole way in + selected gear (4/5) still has vibrations

- Neutral rolling at 100km/h still have vibrations.

Does that rule out it is the clutch/flywheel imbalance?

  • 3 weeks later...
haha yeah ive spent so much time trying to fix this problem;

- Several wheel balances and alignments

- camber, castor, subframe, power steering bushes

- replaced whole steering rack

- More wheel balances and alignments

- balanced tailshaft

- Replaced tyres/rims

- Balanced them too

Only step left is to rebalance clutch/flywheel or get a replacement through warranty...

I'm with godzilla67 my moneys on the dowell pins in the flywheel not being replaced,I spoke to Jim Berry at length about flywheels and clutches and he told me that he's seen some really stupid butchery done on them to get them out but laziness,time constraints and the wrong tools adds up to some mechanics or flywheel grinders just grinding them down so they can machine the flywheel in the assumption that the mechanic will get the stubs out after machining and replace them with new ones but some just refit everything and forget or don't know any better.

Jims solution was to get the dowell pins out and drill a tiny hole maybe 2mm right through the dowell holes so next time it's just a matter of punching them out from the other side,he also said replacing pins that have been taken out the butchers way should be mandatory and owing to my concern put dowells in the package with my clutch.Cheers Grey Pearl.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They need to get a grip. R32 GTRs got as low as AU$8-10K at one point here.
    • You have just offended every teenage boy in America
    • Structured text and other high level PLC programing languages are not allowable in Functional Safety. They are very difficult to audit. My PLC stuff is almost exclusively oriented towards Burner Management Systems which are a particularly pernicious form of Safety Instrumented System, when implemented in an SPLC. Even the part of the code written to work in the non-safety logic part of the PLC, like with a Siemens S7-1500 series, still needs to be treated as if it was safety code, with access restrictions, code fingreprints and the like. And Allen Bradley can go EABODs. They ae full of shit. They have this whole lie going on where they say if you use a ControlLogix controller and its IO, and then just duplicate the IOs (ie, run in series or parallel depending on type, to try to make it "fail safe") and "use these programming styles and place these restrictions on what you do" that you can achieve SIL2. What a load of crap. They just get away with it because no-one in the US seems to understand the first thing about Functional Safety and carries on as if all they have to do is buy only SIL2 rated equipment and hey presto, it's a SIL2 system. Idiots. /rant
    • If you're really considering leaving it, a great question to ask is, is the magnet going to stick to the sump? The answer to the above is the same answer towards if I'd have any level of comfort leaving it... Personally, based on the cost of a motor if the magnet were to cause damage, I'd be fishing it out either way. Use the methods in here. It fit in through the plug hole, it'll come out.   PS, get a small actuatable claw for a bore scope. OR if you know a vet, they have really cool controllable scopes with hooks on the end. Supposedly they're like playing a video game. Ask if they can acquire you one of their scopes... Engine oil after all is just a different type of lube right? Will only make it easier on the next dog or cat...
    • All other (Boolean) logic functions though, are just built on those blocks above. Which does give you a lot of functionality in logic. It is basing that on using thresholds with analogue signals like GTS alluded to.   Not having things like timers will make it less useful for some of the ramp up logic you'd want, and again, on Haltecs capacity specifically, I'm not across anymore what you can / can't do with different tables.   I'm assuming, with your logic you want to implement, not only do you want your timing safeties, you're wanting to be able to derive the duty cycle for your solenoid, to maintain I'm assuming 175PSi? Or are you using a standalone WMI controller to maintain the DC correct, and you just want the Haltech working out which fuelling maps you should be on?
×
×
  • Create New...