Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

congrats on the purchase Ruby, well done :P

any conditions on the contract, ie. subject to building inspection or sale of your house?

when's settlement date?

EDIT: Are you able to say what area?

Well after 3 weeks of shopping and 2 false starts, we've found a fully renovated house with huge back yard. We went and put a deposit on a pool for it today :P

Yeah, I've got a condition of the sale subject to building inspection. Settlement is due by 28 August, with a view to moving it closer ... all up to the bank really. Due to my area of work and study, I know a few people to help out in the inspection and additions, including the planned house extension.

Something like this ...

House_Extension.jpg

Yeah, congrats Ruby.

Awesome news, hope all goes well.

Im hanging to move into my new house, brought it in Feb, but im renting it back to the old owners, they should be out in October :banana:

We were hoping to keep the current house as an investment property. But decided just to upgrade and move on, rather than dedicate ourselves to two properties. We start paying on the new mortgage, once our current place is sold (or in 6 months, whichever comes first).

will a s2 spoiler fit my car? will it look outta place without the skirts and front bar?

OR

where if anywhere in adelaide can i get one of those drift lip spoilers?

im over the spoilerless look, but i hate the s1 spoiler :P

just had my 32 t boned on wednesday on my bday slammed rite in the side in the centre piller pushd in about 3 inches anyone nows any one wit any left side doors for a 4door n gaurd n centre pilla

Insurance?

Just take a cash settlement and buy a new car (I heard weet-bix give away 32's with every 3 packets purchased now - they are almost that cheap)

If there are good bits on the car you could probably buy the wreck back cheap for the parts - if the parts arent listed in the policy you are entitled to get them back as long as you replace them with stock parts (eg. radio, ecu, turbo etc.)

Time to upgrade to a 34 sedan (under 20k now i believe)

thanks chad :P

its either one of those or a gtr wing ? :banana:

i had one of those drift lips all painted and ready to go on, was so amped to put it on, as soon as i trial fitted it i was like NO WAY. You really need a decent kit like whiplash (back in the day) or SECRET 33 gettin around to actually make it look decent in my eyes. But each to their own. I dont actually mind the series 2 spoiler...stock looking and not outrageous.

hey fishpaste, +1 for Shaun no doubt.

In regards to N1 oil pumps, remember one thing; everything in life has a cause and effect.

If your prepared to take the head off and install a restrictor, maybe modify the sump, consider a catch can, maybe baffles in your rocker cover, and are prepared pay the massive $$ for an N1 pump, do it by all means. You need to decide what the car will be used for and what sort of power are you putting out. I personally feel a new standard oil pump for a street car is fine.

Have you hooked up a decent oil pressure gauge to see what its putting out......low pressure doesn't always point to bad oil pump!

ie. you can run a new standard pump in a tight engine (low km or recon motor) and have higher pressure than a loose engine (worn out motor) running a new N1 pump.

Amazing how many people blame low oil pressure on oil pumps when a crank grind and new brgs would in some cases fix the problem.

The gallery restrictor on the top of the block will even add a couple psi to your oil pressure but keep in mind (from my limited knowledge of RB engines) volume is more important than pressure for normal street use.........at high rpm, most pumps will show reasonable oil pressure anyway.

I had a quick read of the thread that Jess put a link to on the previous page (where the N1 oil pump failed) and from the little I saw in the pics, that guy has issues other than the oil pump.

One day when I do a full rebuild and have the opportunity to do other internal mods, I will definitely consider an N1 oil pump........right now I just can't justify all the $$ for the cost of the pump and labour to install......not to mention that it will throw more oil into your rocker covers if you don't attend to the other mods that I mentioned.

I didn't realize that a new oil pump was part of the 100K service??

Sled has the right idea!! A good balanced crank/engine will do wonders, a good quality oil pressure gauge will help alot and really a N1 oil pump is just a little stronger..but like Sled said there is always a cause for something like a oil pump failing :blink: i.e sitting on the limiter for a long time is a big killer! Loose bolts can also cause damage over a period of time so make sure you check regularly - crank bolt! But then again these are on race cars, dont think it would be a huge problem on street cars!

For most cars new oil pump probably isn't, but for a track raced R32 GTR its recomended that while all the other work is happening to it that you replace the oil pump at 100k service. And to me it's not really much money for a little bit of peice of mind and i do vaguley remember a conversation with shaun about it and he thought it was a good idea.

either way i'll still be dropping by boostworx and chatting with the guys there before setting it in concrete.

Fish,

Can I just say I use my GTR for a track car and I push it really hard, run around 300kw all day long, I only have a standard oil pump and did have the engine out a month ago to check everything and it looks amazing inside! All I have done is put the oil restrictor in, sump baffled it and put a really good catch can system on which will eventually run back to the sump when I go to my next stage of modifying which will be in another month or so!

But can understand you wanting peice of mind and I do think the N1 pumps are good. I think Tomei is better then Jun oil pump aswell and they pump higher volumes.

haha, lol, talk about old school.........I just read my post again and realized I was calling the cam covers "rocker covers" :blink: I need to get into the 21st century!!

I read somewhere that those JUN oil pumps are so aggressive that they can suck a sump dry in about 2 laps.......definitely wouldn't use one of those without the necessary mods first. And on top of the usual mods like restrictors, baffles in sump & cam covers, and decent catch can.....I would probably also consider relieving the oil returns in your head to get the oil draining back quicker.

As far as catch can goes, I'm going to try the atmospheric style first with hidden breather and just monitor how much oil its chucking in their.....probably use the MINES cam cover baffles to help it. If I find its chucking too much oil in there then I'll have to consider restrictors and maybe even oil return from the catch can......only thing I'm worried about with the oil return is that I don't wanna be increasing crankcase pressure unnecessarily.

haha, lol, talk about old school.........I just read my post again and realized I was calling the cam covers "rocker covers" :blink: I need to get into the 21st century!!

I read somewhere that those JUN oil pumps are so aggressive that they can suck a sump dry in about 2 laps.......definitely wouldn't use one of those without the necessary mods first. And on top of the usual mods like restrictors, baffles in sump & cam covers, and decent catch can.....I would probably also consider relieving the oil returns in your head to get the oil draining back quicker.

As far as catch can goes, I'm going to try the atmospheric style first with hidden breather and just monitor how much oil its chucking in their.....probably use the MINES cam cover baffles to help it. If I find its chucking too much oil in there then I'll have to consider restrictors and maybe even oil return from the catch can......only thing I'm worried about with the oil return is that I don't wanna be increasing crankcase pressure unnecessarily.

haha Old Skool is cool! :)

Yep they are agressive your right so need to be set up correctly and wanting big power before you go for that style I reckon..

I use a two catch can system with overfilled oil by a litre and half (still do this even tho I have baffled the sump). I use the just jap enclosed catch can mounted on top of my head and then the breathers going to another catch can that sits near the air filters which goes to atesmophere. Mine did used to spew oil out oil even with the restrictor in when I pushed it hard around the track after about 4 laps. So we went to this system and has been great ever since, dont have any extra pressure from what I know of cause basically it's just circularting. But I dont have any oil problem's when using it for street use only on the track.

Most GTR's that I have come across that push the car hard and only have atemospheric catch cans will fill them up and spew out oil. Can I ask what you mean by hidden breathers? dumping to the ground?

Well after 3 weeks of shopping and 2 false starts, we've found a fully renovated house with huge back yard. We went and put a deposit on a pool for it today :)

Yeah, I've got a condition of the sale subject to building inspection. Settlement is due by 28 August, with a view to moving it closer ... all up to the bank really. Due to my area of work and study, I know a few people to help out in the inspection and additions, including the planned house extension.

Something like this ...

House_Extension.jpg

We were hoping to keep the current house as an investment property. But decided just to upgrade and move on, rather than dedicate ourselves to two properties. We start paying on the new mortgage, once our current place is sold (or in 6 months, whichever comes first).

i'll be coming around in summer so i can keep cool in your pool :P lol

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You're making my point for me. 95 is not "premium". It is a "slightly higher octane" version of the basic 91 product. The premium product that they want people to buy (for all the venal corporate reasons of making more profit, and all the possibly specious reasons of it being a "better" fuel with nicer additive packages) is the 98 octane stuff. 95 is the classic middle child. No-one wants it. No-one cares about it. It is just there, occupying a space in the product hierarchy.
    • 98 and 95 have to meet the same national fuel standards beside the actual RON.  91 has lower standards (which are quite poor really), so 95 is certainly not 91 with some octane booster. It would be an easier argument to claim 98 is just 95 with some octane boosters. Also RON doesn't specify 'quality' in any sense, only the octane number.  Anything different retailers decide or not decide to add to their 95 or 98 is arbitrary and not defined by the RON figure.
    • Anyone know alternatives to powerplus tungsten? Can't find an alternative online. 
    • 95 is just a scam outright. 98 is the real "premium" with all the best detergents and other additive packages, and at least historically, used to be more dense also. 95 is just 91 bargain basement shit with a little extra octane rating. Of course, there's 91 and there's 91 also. I always (back in the 90s early 2000s) refused to put fuel in from supermarket related fuel chains on the basis that it was nasty half arsed shit imported from Indonesia. Nowadays, I suspect that there is little difference between the nasty half-arsed shit brought in by the "bargain" chains and the nasty half-arsed shit brought in by the big brands, given that most of it is coming from the same SEAsian refineries. Anyway - if there's still anything to that logic, then it would apply to 95 also. 98 is only made in decent refineries and, as I said, is usually the "premium" fuel, both in terms of octane rating and "use this because it's good for your engine because it's got the unicorn jizz in it!".
    • Yeah since those first 2 replies I actually went and put some 98 in it and tbf it's already doing much better than the 95 (which is weird and makes my inner tinfoil hat wearer think the 95 was a crap batch), getting 8ish around town. Again, wonder if it takes a while to stabilize if the fuel is changed a couple of times. I swear cars used to just either run "well" or "s**t* in my 20s, none of this fuel optimisation business haha 
×
×
  • Create New...