Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thats weird about the AFM, I was under the impression they flowed well and only really need changing when going for big power as the tuning resolution is a better with a Z32 item. Mine's only running about 180@wheels anyway, and I need to get the sus/chassis sorted before I need anymore :(

Mine was maxed a little over 180rwkw as well as another mates.

Perfectly normal. You can tune them up to around 220rwkw odd but its a fairly rough tune. Essentially when the afm max's out you push in enough fuel at that load point to handle the boost being run. So what occurs is say its tuned for 15psi but the afm max's out at 12psi when it hits 12psi it runs the ignition timing and enough fuel for 15psi so not optimal.

But really you never try (thats if you were good enough to be able to do it) to hold 12psi at part throttle with the afm only just maxing out so usually it goes unnoticed. :(

The Z32 allows for a fair bit more scope. Mine went from maxing the std afm out to ~4.2-4.3v on the Z32. Then ~268rwkw was ~4.7volts and now 302rwkw is high 4.9volts on occasions flat 5volts on those cold nights. So nearing its limits again. :S

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sikaflex. There are many grades. I'm not sure which one is generally used for this purpose though.
    • Yes, and you will never get the shock to go onto the pin with the ARB loaded across the car like that. Too much force.
    • One other thing worth mentioning when I did this job I only jacked up the driver side as I was only doing work there, but from what I understand both wheels should be in the air when removing the sway bar links?
    • Yep it's an r34. Usually people remove struts without removing the front upper control arm (fuca is what i assume this is?) So not sure why mine wouldn't fit. I know on my other car I did a similar job and it wouldn't fit until I removes the ball joint nut even though I didn't remove it prior.   The upper arm doesn't seem to be in the way (the part that's bolted to the chassis. The part that's bolted onto the j arm I'll check that out though.   I was going to compress the spring and put it in with the compressor attached but not sure if it will work  Haven't seen anyone do it.
    • I have a small lip on the boot of the E90 and I've been toying with the idea of trying to mould it in to the boot to remove the gaps. I guess shaving the seams? No idea what the terminology is here.  What I'm wondering is, if it's current double sided taped down, what would I do to more permanently attach it so it makes a good base for the filler? It only has edges so no way to bolt it down unless I add some braces. I've done a lot of fibre glassing in my time so that's nice and easy but I'm not sure what my options are here.  Sorry, this is the best pic I have and I'm 4 million ks from home ATM.  
×
×
  • Create New...