Jump to content
SAU Community

The Sa Wasteland


Cubes
 Share

Recommended Posts

So. I went to work today, 5-9pm.

And went to leave work and my f**king car wouldn't start :(

Its the second time that its done it now, first time was before school and the RAA bloke said that my battery wasn't charging very well and to replace it.

Half smart idea but then i thought if the battery is having trouble being charged in the first place, then maybe its the alternator??? So that was last week.

Car had been fine since then, i thought when i was sick and didn't use it for 2 days that it wouldn't start, but no it started up fine.

But this morning when i started it, it clicked once before the engine turned over. And then obviously tonight it didn't even turn over :)

And driving home was a bitch because my headlights and interior lights were all dimmed to hell, my stereo kept turning off and on every 10 seconds so took the face off and my indicator was lagging...

So whats the go. Anyone know how to check if an alternator is f**cked??? LOL

My battery is still under warranty because i only bought it last year :P SO thinking maybe replace that, but if its the alternator its just gonna ruin the new battery anyway.

Thoughts would be good. Cheers lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah sounds like the alternator but i'm pretty sure most mechanics would have a device that checks the currents i think! not sure what the device is

Edited by nos man
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Take it to an auto-elec, they should be able to point out the problem in a few minutes. New alternator on a Laser shouldn't be too hard to replace, did it on my missus' old Laser, boy what a pile of shit that was!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Driving along the other day and my car (R34 NA) goes pop, slight shutter and the engine light comes on.. been on and off again for bout 4 days now..

My SAU research indicates fried coil pack.. common problem!

My question is what is a rough price im looking at paying for splitfires or OEM, and what is the alternative as I need to sell my car so dont really want to put that much money into it? Or its just one of those things that has to be done..

i did note that an ebay seller has them for $350 but no indication of brand or specs.

Ill visit a jap wrecker this weekend and see what they can do it for..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So. I went to work today, 5-9pm.

And went to leave work and my f**king car wouldn't start :)

Its the second time that its done it now, first time was before school and the RAA bloke said that my battery wasn't charging very well and to replace it.

Half smart idea but then i thought if the battery is having trouble being charged in the first place, then maybe its the alternator??? So that was last week.

Car had been fine since then, i thought when i was sick and didn't use it for 2 days that it wouldn't start, but no it started up fine.

But this morning when i started it, it clicked once before the engine turned over. And then obviously tonight it didn't even turn over :(

And driving home was a bitch because my headlights and interior lights were all dimmed to hell, my stereo kept turning off and on every 10 seconds so took the face off and my indicator was lagging...

So whats the go. Anyone know how to check if an alternator is f**cked??? LOL

My battery is still under warranty because i only bought it last year :( SO thinking maybe replace that, but if its the alternator its just gonna ruin the new battery anyway.

Thoughts would be good. Cheers lol

could almost guarantee its your alternator:( take it to an auto elec and see what they think. if they think it is see, how much they can supply a new/recond one for and price to fir it, if you think its a bit steep, give me a yel and ill come fit it for ya for cheaper... im a mechanic BTW

cheers and good luck

Isaac

Link to comment
Share on other sites

sweet! thanks man, feels good to actually stop when i want to!

my mate that broke the brake line quizzed me to make sure you did it all properly, like he has a f**king clue anyway

by talking about breaking a brakeline do you mean the short 90 degree bent pipe from the caliper to the strut??? i broke one of mine the other day when replaceing my pad and machining rotors :) , ryan told me its a common prob, lucky SA brake and clutch were near by to make me up a new one in a jiffy :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

could almost guarantee its your alternator:( take it to an auto elec and see what they think. if they think it is see, how much they can supply a new/recond one for and price to fir it, if you think its a bit steep, give me a yel and ill come fit it for ya for cheaper... im a mechanic BTW

cheers and good luck

Isaac

Ha cheers for that mate. Alright well after school today im taking my car down to the place where i got the battery from in the first place, hopefully getting that replaced because it's still under warranty, and then i'll have to do something about the alternator.

Jeez. This car is gonna make me broke :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

sorry there $399

jjrcoilsrbeng-02.jpg<< Click

Are they any good?

Yeah coilpacks in R34's is a very common problem, everyone i talk to has left their coilpack cover off so they don't overheat. I have stock ones in ATM, and a splitfire box with stock ones in as well, spewing, i thought when u bought it that it had splitfires.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ha cheers for that mate. Alright well after school today im taking my car down to the place where i got the battery from in the first place, hopefully getting that replaced because it's still under warranty, and then i'll have to do something about the alternator.

Jeez. This car is gonna make me broke :)

Def the alternator brushes are on their way out. Its not providing enough charge to recharge the battery and run the lights in your car at the same time (yes, your battery could also be suffering). You shouldn't need to replace the entire alternator, just the brushes only (which is that little black box part at the back of the alternator, which your loom plugs into.

No idea on price, but alot cheaper than another alternator.

:(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ha cheers for that mate. Alright well after school today im taking my car down to the place where i got the battery from in the first place, hopefully getting that replaced because it's still under warranty, and then i'll have to do something about the alternator.

Jeez. This car is gonna make me broke :(

Definately sounds like lack of skyline, you should get that looked at.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   I have bought a JDM R35 at auction in Japan.  This is my second JDM GTR after owning one back in 2009.  I have made a couple of videos that may interest some forum members.  One is collecting the GTR from the compliance shop (and seeing it for the first time) and another on the process of buying and importing a car from Japan.  I'm new to this and would appreciate your thoughts, as well as a subscribe!    
    • Sorry, AFM.    Will edit original post
    • Oh, yeah, no arguing that the duty cycle is different. And a circuit car will go to those speeds for more distance and longer times. But, I suspect that if a tailshaft has a harmonic problem, that it would cause damage and shit itself maybe even on the first pass. A second or two of running at the resonant/harmonic problem speed is already a couple hundred revolutions.
    • Shaft speed would be the same, however it's how long they hold it there for and repeated conditions. FWIW half way down the main straight at SMSP I'm bouncing off 4th with a 8600RPM limiter. That shaft would be spinning at 8600RPM for a few seconds before I need to smash the brakes, by T2 it's getting close to that speed again. Now a drag car/roll race car would see that shaft speed for a 1 to 2 secs then they would coast, hit the brakes and that's it.
    • With same diff ratio, tyre diameter and road speed, the tailshaft rpm is the same regardless of the gearbag's ratio. Given that very quick drag cars are probably doing similar road speeds to the fastest circuit cars (circa 300 km/h), and there will be many of either category that can't go that fast and so you'd have inummerable matchups between drag and circuit car speeds at smaller numbers, and given that they are probably using rather similar tyre diameters and probably using similar diff ratios, and...where any of those numbers were different they could quite easily be in opposite directions thus cancelling out.... I think you'd find that there'd be more similarity than difference in tailshaft speed between these two use cases, no?
×
×
  • Create New...