Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yea good tools aren't cheap, i lashed out 5 hungy today on whats not even third of a tool kit yet....well worth getting quality tho.

My brother only buys Snap-on, his kit must be worth 20k by now, but they are good quality and will be replaced for free (without questions) if they ever break (try getting that service with sidchrome)

Im not a mechanic by trade so havent gone as overboard, but I have found Craftsman tools (from Sears in the USA) to be well priced and good quality.

My brother only buys Snap-on, his kit must be worth 20k by now, but they are good quality and will be replaced for free (without questions) if they ever break (try getting that service with sidchrome)

Im not a mechanic by trade so havent gone as overboard, but I have found Craftsman tools (from Sears in the USA) to be well priced and good quality.

funny you say that mate, cos im a fitter and turner and tools are my life. use them every day regardless of what it is...Ive tried most tools but I buy nothing but sidchrome and have had a couple of things break over the last few years only by force lol and they replaced without any hassle at all. Lifetime guarantee. KingChrome is also very good. Agreed Snap-on would be the best tho.

Edited by Ryanrb25

ruby did really well today at the track some guy did a spectacular flip lol well not really funny but yeah

pheobie wont be on here anymore cause i saw her last night at bp west tce and i told her that she is to stay off sau and a fair few other things, nene stopped me from punching her face in but yeah lol very shit night last night because of a person but thats a story for another day

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm with GTS, that's not an actual overheat issue. That's an electrical issue.
    • So, it's clearly an electrical problem. Either with the gauge itself, or the sender. It appears to be voltage sensitive (ie, alternator output affects the reading.
    • Yes, at this stage of SAU threads, I  automatically assume that anyone here knows that everything depends on each and every setup and its choice of parts and what an individual wants from the setup. I think your misunderstanding what I've said, I'm not saying your curve will move to the right.. I'm stating the opposite; that my setup has a much larger turbo than my last one, my current exhaust manifold runners are 2-3x longer than the last one, the intercooler is longer and thicker (hks 103mm thick), the itbs are now oversized from 45mm up to 49mm, and the plenum is now a larger Nismo plenum that's been port matched. As a result, I'm making more power, torque and boost 1000rpm earlier than my last setup. My curve moved left, in a big way. You guys with 800-1000+hp turbos should be considering hks v-cam or the other Japanese company Sakura who makes RB25 Neo vct adaptor kits for RB26's. they all make more power / boost / torque far earlier and higher peak numbers. Dahtone Racing modifies the Hks v-cam systems to his own specs and he also developed the worlds first and best dbw individual throttle body kits, to complement his V-cam. Every single car is 800-1200+hp and they all produce huge gains in response and peak power. 
    • I have a 2008 Skyline 370gt with about 160,000 km on the clock currently. A while ago, I noticed the temp gauge would start climbing but it comes down when I give it some throttle. I took it into the shops. The technicians comments are transcripted below. Reported they couldn't find anything wrong with the vehicle mechanically and they pressure tested the cooling system. Funnily enough, the technician commented that the temperature dropped back down when the car is stationary but this is when I'd notice the temp gauge to be climbing. Just wondering if anyone else experienced anything similar to enlighten me? Cos at the onset, the temps were going up one tick and then comes back down when I step on it. Now, the temps are climbing all the way to the top of the gauge, and it's making me very nervous lol. It also doesn't come down to the neutral position anymore. PS I do have a small exhaust leak near the drivers side caused by when I got f**ked by a really steep driveway at a mall I never visited before. Not sure if this would affect the sensor. Technician comments: Check and verify Fan/Cooling system - ALL OK max 106*C and fans operating at 100% Cools down right away. Checked Fan Operation - 55%@101*C, 85% @ 104*C and 100% @ 105*C Vehicle did not exceed these temperatures with max load. Temperature recovered back to 99*C after fan operation while vehicle Stationary.
    • It really depends on your setup. Mine is 'accidently' more suited to revving higher. bigger cams, turbo etc. Plus my super long first takes donkey years to come onto boost, so if it will move my power band to the right, maybe i'll pass on this. i have a G45-1500 going on there soon which I suspect might make it more of a fat pig.
×
×
  • Create New...