Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Plug in 66% as you had previously or slightly less. Might be worth going a little leaner with 60%.

When cranking go full throttle.

It probably won't start because the plugs are wet fouled then its just a big vicious circle. :S

i tried that the other day to no avail.

Adrian, we need to pull the plugs out,start again..I'll get it going after the job interview.

Edited by Ryanrb25

well.........

the car seems to be running on 4cyl with the new injectors in.. so out the injectors come and off for a flow test... hope two arent f**ked...

oh well we will wait and c how it goes... its all a learning curve!

Checked the injectors are receiving power with a multimeter?

The injectors always receive volts so simply turn the ignition to the on position and check with a multimeter.

The ecu earths the injectors to trigger them so obviously shove the neg of the multimeter on the chassis/battery.

Runs on 4.. Are you sure the plugs just arn't fouled.. Thats what a mate of mines did for a while we warmed it up, raised rev's and she cleared up. :huh:

Not in the mood.. Go and have a bat. lol.

Run it for a good 5mins or so with rev's slightly up.

Make sure the injector correct is set right so go with 'slightly' lean at 65%

.... It could be running for the weekend ...

Another way to check the injectors are firing and when they 'should' be firing is to pull the cas out; ignition to the on position and then spin the cas clockwise slowly when looking at the shaft from behind. You'll hear the injectors click click click. Make sure they follow the firing order. :unsure:

[Vent]

Put turbos back on, sell car?

Pay for removal/reinstallation and just take it in the nuts?

Sell engine, buy R34N1 engine + turbos and apply for an engine conversion?

In SA, that actually seems like a good idea....ARGHHH.

[/vent]

Another way to check the injectors are firing and when they 'should' be firing is to pull the cas out; ignition to the on position and then spin the cas clockwise slowly when looking at the shaft from behind. You'll hear the injectors click click click. Make sure they follow the firing order. :unsure:

yeh ive done that before but not with the new injectors.. ill give that a crack later..

if there not firing wats the go? there rooted?

[Vent]

Put turbos back on, sell car?

Pay for removal/reinstallation and just take it in the nuts?

Sell engine, buy R34N1 engine + turbos and apply for an engine conversion?

In SA, that actually seems like a good idea....ARGHHH.

[/vent]

how much for the n1's? my car needs a chrissy present

yeh ive done that before but not with the new injectors.. ill give that a crack later..

if there not firing wats the go? there rooted?

If there not firing its multimeter time to see if the problem is with the loom or the injector.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not R7R. Meant to type R&R, obviously enough.
    • Bugger "making it look stock". I put one conventional internally fused Hella relay behind each globe. I just pulled the plugs off the back of the globes and built new loom segments with male and female plug parts to match up to the original loom and the globe, and used the original power wires to each globe coming from the switch through the original loom plug to trigger the relays. Ran a big fat (also separately fused) power wire across the front of the car to feed all the relays. It's as ugly as f**k, but it is wedged down between the headlight and battery on the RHS and the airbox and headlight on the LHS, and no-one ever looks in my engine bay, and on the odd occasion that they do I simply give no f**ks for what they think. Fully reversible - not that you'd ever want to. For f**k's sake. It's a Skyline. They made million of the bloody things. We've been crashing them into roadside furniture for 30 years now. There is a negative side effect to putting relays on the headlights. The coil current is too little to properly clean the contacts in the switches and they get blacked up and you have to open them up every couple of years and clean them manually. I have 25 years of experience on this point.
    • I was poking through the R34 wiring diagrams vs R33 and noticed that the R34 has proper headlight relays while the R33 is like the R32 and sends full headlight power through the headlight switch. I'm not afraid of wiring but I really would like to do this in a way that looks OEM (clipping into open positions on the OEM relay box) and also unlike the factory wiring which interlocks the high beam and low beam on the halogen series 1 GTR headlights I want to make it such that turning on the high beams keeps the low beams on as well. Any advice on how to locate the specific connectors + crimp terminals + relays I need? I was thinking one NO relay for low beams and another for combined high + low running off the factory high beam headlight connector. I don't really want to splice into a crusty old probably discontinued factory harness so fully reversible is my goal here.
    • Pretty sure they run the same engine as the Q50 hybrid which specifies 95 RON.  I ran 98 in mine for a while, but it made no difference in performance or economy, so I have been using 95 for the last few years.  I have never hit 6.0L/100km, but have returned mid to high 6 on the highway.  Being a hybrid, fuel economy is a lot more dependant on how you drive it.  At 110km/h, mine never goes into EV mode on the highway, so returns closer to 7.5L/100. urban driving can return low 8s if you are careful or over 10 if you are a bit more enthusiastic on the throttle.
    • About a quarter of what you want to do. It's only R7R, not R&dismantle&replaceparts&reassemble&R. ? It is stock. I already told you, you will NOT have broken those. It's f**king 4th gear for Christ's sake. You just chipped the teeth off.
×
×
  • Create New...