Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just scoped out gtr 32s for sale. love how everyone claims only 80ks done on them. so the car has averaged about 300ks a month since it was bought, i have my doubts. there's also 1 on there still for sale from when i was looking for 1 3years ago.

overall though seems they holding pretty good value, im happy with my investment

also a good move, put your p plates in the window for the advertising pic, not that many will believe it has been driving like a granny but still might help sell it a bit faster.

Edited by Inline 6
just scoped out gtr 32s for sale. love how everyone claims only 80ks done on them. so the car has averaged about 300ks a month since it was bought, i have my doubts. there's also 1 on there still for sale from when i was looking for 1 3years ago.

overall though seems they holding pretty good value, im happy with my investment

also a good move, put your p plates in the window for the advertising pic, not that many will believe it has been driving like a granny but still might help sell it a bit faster.

That arguement has been had so many times.

You'd be amazed at how many of those GTR's are actual geniune K's.

Although, are you looking at GTR's in Japan or Australia?

Even when my GTR is running, I barely drive it. Between January and December last year, I did only 6,000k's. And most of those K's were from going on holidays.

That arguement has been had so many times.

You'd be amazed at how many of those GTR's are actual geniune K's.

Although, are you looking at GTR's in Japan or Australia?

Even when my GTR is running, I barely drive it. Between January and December last year, I did only 6,000k's. And most of those K's were from going on holidays.

Yeah I think I did about as much last year - catching the bus to work has its benefits...

And the cars been off the road sporadically over the last 3 months so I've been driving my old lady's Seca... FWD fun (not)

-D

Every single one though lets be realistic man, they are very commonly known for the clock winding games. r34s apparently are harder to do it to and you often see 34s with higher k's. id find it more believable if it was a small number of them but no not all of them.

i hardly drive mine as i have a daily, but i still clock up about 10k a year. driving it that little may even be doing damage unless you starting it up and taking it for a lil spin regularly.

these were in the land of aus, they often dont have original steering wheels when the clocks dodgy aswell to try and hide how messed up the leathers gone from all the driving.

but yes these arguments have been had before :(

Edited by Inline 6

Yeah I use public transport every day to get to work... I can't justify driving my GTR to work in peak hour traffic, although, it does have it's fun moments.

I'm no longer even using the R to go down to the shops like I used to, as last time I did that, I found a trolley resting against my front bar :(

Although, I do get the odd phone call from my mates at 4am, saying "can you pick me up from this party? No one here believes I have a mate that owns a GTR"

Every single one though lets be realistic man, they are very commonly known for the clock winding games. r34s apparently are harder to do it to and you often see 34s with higher k's. id find it more believable if it was a small number of them but no not all of them.

i hardly drive mine but i still clock up atleast 10k a year.

these were in the land of aus, they often dont have original steering wheels when the clocks dodgy aswell to try and hide how messed up the leathers gone from all the driving.

but yes these arguments have been had before :(

34's, even with the digital odo, are just as easy to change the K's as a regular dash!

Aussie Skylines will always have higher K's, as most of them are driven daily and long distances (eg. Cara).

Edited by CRoNic...

The 34 I looked at a while ago in a car yard ended up changing the steering wheel because I said there is NO WAY that gear stick and steering wheel have only done 64,000kms.

Kind wish i didnt say anything now. Sales scumbags.

I purchased mine at 64,000kms and it looked immaculate. Had it for around 2 years now and Im up to 109,000kms. Still looks the same.

id take a rebuilt 32 ova 1 claiming low k's me thinks.

When i got mine i didnt really pay much attention to the k's more interested in interior condition and if the steering wheel matched the rest. not crazy new like its been replaced and not hacked like its seen a few downhill races over the years.

Edited by Inline 6

you could have a skyline at 120,000k's, serviced on time every time, driven regularly but easily, and a skyline at 60,000k's, genuine, but serviced only 1 or 2 times, had a hard life. which one would you buy?

id take the high kay.

my 200 is getting close to 160,000, but you wouldnt be able to tell by looking at it, interior is immac (aside from the stereo surround), engines nice and healthy, paints still in great condish, and it has service history. win.

Edited by scandyflick

the 1 with paul walker neons and nos switch :( cause it aint how you stand by your R

tis a good point, thats why i keep all my reciepts and write down the millage on each service. accountants keep records :( and the nerd with googles drives responsbly

Edited by Inline 6

My mate's R33 he picked it up at like 80,000km last year and hasnt serviced it at all... the idiot wouldnt have a clue how to do an oil change haha - in the same time interval of him having his car I have had mine serviced twice with the best products :( had the car for a couple months shy of 2 years now and only raked in just under 20,000km in that time :(

There is one thing that will tell you if a car has genuine kms and that is the service manual. There is only one reason to remove the service book from the glovebox and that is because it doesn't match what the odo is saying.

With my 180 they removed the service manual but there were still some reciepts for some brake work done in 2000 with an odo reading of 125,000km, pity i bought the car in 2005 with 97,000kms on the clock.

Edited by D_Stirls
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update for the sake of closure   Ended up getting the intercooler piping all sorted, new plugs and yellow jacket coils, and she was idling mint until it warmed up while I was bleeding the cooling system. Found the misfire to be localised to cyl 3 by unplugging coilpacks, ran a compression test, that checked out, then decided to get a mate to check if that spark plug was firing out of the motor. Upon cranking it over, with the injectors disconnected, the car actually fired and ran on a couple cylinders and heaps of fuel came out the top of cyl 3 I'd say that injector's either spraying incorrectly or spraying far too much, which is fine as I'm planning on replacing them anyway I'm planning on making about 250kW on flex fuel, and have a set of 1000cc injectors from ozautosport, obviously overkill but I'm planning on building the motor and running more boost further down the line, do you reckon they'd be too big for a smooth idle on 98? Thanks for the replies gents, much appreciated
    • I'm confused. You said you want to "remove the clear coat from most panels" but it sounds like you are actually doing a full respray? Few random things to add -  If you chase the blistered paint with 120 grit, I can almost guarantee you'll chase it down to bare metal (that's fine). But if you paint the car from here, you'll have nice little indents where ever the blistered paint was. The new paint won't magically level out the low areas, you need to fill them. Which leads me to the main point I wanted to add, make sure the whole car is flat before you paint it. All those areas with blistered paint you sanded out, make sure to fill them and triple check they are flat with a block guide coat. I'd also check the whole car is flat with a large block and guide coat but yeah up to you if you want to go that far.   
    • 300hp (225kw) is barely outside the standard turbo's range with a bit of extra boost in it (200ish). If you are going to change the turbo you should aim for 250-300kw (330-400hp) to make the expense worthwhile
    • A couple of things, firstly omg that turbo is expensive! $3,000 USD for dinosaur technology is robbery. You could buy a G series turbo and have a good amount of change instead.  If you want a good budget option, have a look here - https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/ If you are keen to spend more, have look at the modern turbos, Garrett G series, Borgwarner EFR, etc. Have a look at the RB25 dyno results thread for inspiration.  If you upgrade your turbo to something that will support the 300hp you want and only "probably" have Haltech ECU, your car will only "probably" run. Actually, no it won't run. You are going to need the ECU and injectors at the time you do the turbo upgrade.  No thoughts on "this much boost" as you didn't say how much boost that actually is. Having said that, plenty of unopened RB25's making even more power then what you are chasing.   
×
×
  • Create New...