Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Tint a car do Midnight Express, which apparently is the darkest legal tinting option! Heard good things about it.

Before Steve gets in, i think Ric from Auto Perfection does it too :D

no its not on the 2 front windows - i found out the hard way can be 35% all round but the front windows - no more than 70%

Cara is right i have the widow tinting brochure that i got when my car was being inspected.

Taken from the brochure:

The driver and passenger windows must have a luminous transmittance of at least 70%

The windows behind the driver must have a luminous transmittance of at least 35% unless they are interior windows

The inspector had a good look at the windows in the stag when i was there on Wednesday.

Edited by DSTROY

Umm all these damm rules. :D why can't things be simple.

Thank you for the suggestions. All windows bar the front two are done, the rears do look fairly dark though.

So possibly 70% fronts??

As Andrew has said you can't go past that QFM pads, I'm using the A1RM pads, they have unbelievable cold bite (I seriously couldn't believe it), and i have used them at Mallala and pulling low 1:20's and for 15 minutes and never had any fade. Also done 2 modern Reg' events and i still have another 2 days left in the pads, that's with a few hills runs as well.

They have a 1/2 price rears deal (through GSR RallySport, who's a trader on here) as well and i got free postage as well so that's front and rear 780 degree pads for $190 posted.

Im pretty sure the QFM's are not available for skylines atm. They wont have any for about 3-4 weeks :D

Umm all these damm rules. :D why can't things be simple.

Thank you for the suggestions. All windows bar the front two are done, the rears do look fairly dark though.

So possibly 70% fronts??

My fronts where nearly as dark as the back window on the Stag but i had to rip it cos i got defected, but i'll get them done to match the rears again cos legal tint will look to see though compared to the privacy glass.

70% to be legal, darker if you want to risk being defected.

so, had a bit of trouble moving my seat rail back and forward.

solution, absolutely packed it full of some random loctite grease. (i lol'd at loctite making a product designed to stop shit sticking)

still a bit firm, but whatever, probably just the rails expanded a little when they were being welded and bound up a tiny bit. no biggie, much easier to move than it was.

lol at passed out little guy

off to melbourne tomorrow morning to buy a yellow 02 ford escape for $5999

paid $500 and $90 for air flight. got unrego vehicle permit to drive it back

need to grab 2 tyres in melbourne, fill her up, then drive back.

long day tomorrow me thinks

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No intention of driving the car the way it's set up now, just wanting to make sure I haven't made any mistakes along the way so that the tune can go smoothly, I don't want to waste anyone's time with stupid issues. And of course I intend to get it towed to the dyno in a completed state 😅 I have the base fuel pressure with the vacuum disconnected set at about 40psi, which I believe is at least relatively close to stock fuel pressure, maybe I'll have a fiddle with the reg and see what happens. For all I know I could be wasting my time with this and I should just plumb it in and see what the tuner reckons. I just find it a bit strange that it seems to be under so much load just free revving, but maybe that's just a result of the turbo slowing down the exhaust gasses and making a restriction in the flow, with no boost to compensate.
    • The boy just hit up google translate and it worked a treat, he said step one was "please urinate with precision and elegance", he then sent me the correct translation  I get some new loctite for the small fixtures tomorrow and get some "dort" going after that 🤣
    • Right, so is the fuel pressure the same as it was previously? If not, well, it's not going to work well. I can understand the theory I assume you are going for, which is: "Run it N/A, and if I have the original AFM, and same amount of fuel and intake air as previously, the fact there's a turbo in my exhaust should still make it run" Which it... might? Provided you don't actually change how much air or fuel is going into the car.. or getting out. But if you have changed that, all bets are off. What is the purpose to even have the car run this way? To get it to a tuner? And if the goal is to limp it to a tuner, you're still going to what - plumb up a whole intercooler system and new intake in the parking lot out front before your tune......?
    • Haha yea it's a bit of a weird setup at the moment, just wanted to make sure I sorted out any headaches before dyno day. At the moment I've changed the exhaust manifold, turbo and downpipe, 460lph fuel pump and rising rate reg as well as the previously mentioned headstuds and gasket. The nistune was already mapped for the car as it was and drove around for a few months no worries. The plan is to run flex fuel hence the big pump, which I've wired direct to the battery through a relay to avoid voltage issues.
    • Um. Was the ECU the same as the one previously there? I know R33's needed R32 GTST ECU's or other tomfoolery to run Nistune. This is such a wild setup. Most people would plumb in the turbo then not drive the car (i.e tow it to a tuner). What's actually changed since it last ran?
×
×
  • Create New...