Jump to content
SAU Community

The Sa Wasteland


Cubes
 Share

Recommended Posts

Just heard a dark coloured nissan skyline was used in a hold up over night.

I assume its the stolen 33 getting around.

Yeah ... wonder how the media will spin it?

"Hoons turn to new wave of crime!"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just heard a dark coloured nissan skyline was used in a hold up over night.

I assume its the stolen 33 getting around.

You sure they werent stealing petrol from the tankers :P

sounds like FNF is in adelaide

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quick (dumb) question ...

Where is a good place to buy one of those baffle inserts for JunBL mufflers? (approx 5" outlet)

Ebay? ... or just go to someone like AAA. They should have something in stock yes? :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

just head out to one of the exhaust shops Roo....they should have it in stock if not then they should be able to make one up for you in no time

Thanks Krishy. I just didn't want to waste a lunch break taking a dead end. :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah Dan, not just any RB30, but OS Giken RB30 .... just the blocks alone are $30k .... and he has bought many of them .... still has a brand new one sitting under his workbench under a sheet if I remember correctly ....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

RB30 and RB315 Race engines

The ultimate upgrade for your RB26, these complete pre-assembled bottom-end kits are rated to handle power outputs up to 1400hp.

The RB30 features 86mm stroke with a forged chrome-moly crank, forged chrome-moly SCM steel H-beam conrods and forged 4032 aluminium 86mm pistons. It is made using a new Nissan block and specially designed spacer and liner kit. Special features not found in a normal RB26 include an 8-bolt flywheel pattern*, 22mm gudgeon pins and 23mm rod bearing width. Nismo black metal crankshaft bearings are used, with specially designed crank cap bolts. The bottom end is supplied complete with a metal head gasket, specially designed head stud bolts, adjustable timing gears, tensioner pulley and longer timing belt.

The new RB315 features 89mm stroke and 86.5mm pistons for 3138cc capacity. Normal combustion chamber volume comes to 10cc, but specially shaped pistons can also be custom-ordered. The RB315 is built using an N1 block, with the same specially-designed spacer and liner arrangement as the RB30, with an oil restrictor and piston cooler jets already fitted.

OS Giken RB30 $29,900

OS Giken RB315 $31,900

*An OS Giken clutch must be ordered to suit the crank in these engines

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Meh. I "see" a typo above, that should have been "sell".
    • The clutch pedal has a procedure for adjustment. This can only be done after you are 100% sure the system is absolutely free of air bubbles. You must bleed the clutch master cylinder first, then the "separation pipe" which is the clutch damper line, then the operating cylinder as detailed in the service manual. Also, you must fully depress the clutch pedal between shifts. Just because you can't feel it grabbing does not mean the input shaft is truly decoupled from the crank. At high RPM clutch plates are vibrating and moving around, you need to give it the best possible chance of success. On the BCNR33 Nissan revises these adjustment procedures slightly but not by much: I would be careful with trying to play games with these adjustments. As for the Nismo operating cylinder they say a lot of things. In practice the twin plate clutch needs less movement on the clutch fork to disengage because the whole stackup of the flywheel + friction plates + pressure plate is much taller. Personally if you find that the clutch still disengages too high at the top of the travel I would try the Nismo operating cylinder. Make sure to follow the air bleed procedures. 
    • Thank you for the links. I’m going to go with the 6pin plug you used. next step is rust treating re painting dash support bar and steering column then the 6pin cradle plug when it arrives in the mail.
    • I don't how much the car makes a difference or whether it is just a question of gearbox and clutch. On mine it's fine. Pull type Nismo coppermix twin (standard, not competition) on the 5 speed in my Stagea. OEM slave cylinder. Bite point is a few cm off the very bottom of the pedal. Clutch pedal all the way down to put in gear, and when heading off at the lights, there's a tiny bit of nothing and then it starts biting. And fully engaged before the pedal is all the way released. There's a bit of play at the top where the pedal does nothing anymore. Are you in Australia @ck_chino? If you are set on using a Nismo slave cylinder I have one new-in-box at home. Ordered it together with the clutch but didn't get it fitted. We can work something out if you want it
    • I am using a pull nismo coppermix twin in an r34 getrag box, had both the standard slave and  then the nismo one. Adjusted pedal to get bite point how I wanted , it is on the higher side, but would fully disengage past half way down.  I also read that the nismo slave won't work but I had no issues with the stroke, might become one later as clutch wears but 2+ years of happy motoring so far.  Take the above as one input only, specially as my setup is a bit unique in that I am using an S15 clutch master , cefiro clutch pedal, custom braided clutch line. Lots of variables at play. 
×
×
  • Create New...