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By Murray_Calavera · Posted
Those exact ones, with the hex head on the plastic insulators and the metal flange? -
By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted
I nearly feel this is the issue, those insulated terminals are aids to crimp correctly. -
These are the ones that I melted. You need the FPR kit, nothing else will work. :p -
By Murray_Calavera · Posted
Any chance you are talking about the flanged area in the picture above as the 'landing on the bulkhead'? If so the Taarks kit doesn't have that. The ring terminal is slightly larger then the stud, I would not describe those two as making good contact with each other. My assumption was, the good contact comes from the 2 washers on either side of the ring terminal making a good connection, and the washers make a good connection with the nut, which makes a good connection with the stud. I'm guessing this was an incorrect assumption? -
By Murray_Calavera · Posted
Just stumbled on this, sounds interesting - https://www.efihardware.com/products/3194/submersible-bulkhead-terminals-hex-head "Hex cup versions enable Insulating sealing cups to be torqued up against each other ensuring a tight seal eliminating bad resistance resulting in excessive heat from high amperage." When I installed the Taarks kit, I tried my best to tighten down the white plastic insulating , but they are round and threaded. So unfortunately the nuts don't cause them to clamp down due to the thread and I couldn't grip them very well to torque them down. I'd say they are only finger tight each side. The nuts however were torqued down well on each side. Just reading the Efi hardware site further, it just gets worse. So essentially they are saying the Taarks kit is only rated to 10 amps and should not be used on a plastic bulkhead. They recommend this connector that has the added flange on it for a plastic bulkhead -
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